What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Yeah, I see this, we will see what happens...

 

That little round knockout is for access to a torx-head bolt. There is one on each side. That's how you remove the horn-pad/airbag assembly (the first step).

 

Do any of you guys have a lot of play in your CV axles where it meets the hub? If I grab the axle shaft and toggle it, there seems to be quite a bit of play whenever I compare it to the driver side. You can hear it clanking. The reason I am asking is because I had the bearing replaced a while ago at a dealership, but then I started noticing a bad grinding sound coming from that wheel. I popped open my manual locking hubs and saw that they didnt have any grease in them. Anyway, I am concerned that the wheel bearing is bad again despite having it replaced. There is no play when you go to rock the wheel back and forth, but I don't know how reliable that is. The dealership is saying that play is normal and refusing to replace the bearing.

This whole thing has been a fiasco. I also had my rear wheel bearing replaced and the axle is now leaking again. They did a shitty job on the alignment ( a ton of inner shoulder wear and the steering wheel was off center), my rear diff was covered in brake fluid, two of the bolts that hold the LCA to the spindle fell out one day when I was driving. It's been a headache to say the least, because they are refusing to do anything about it.

 

Manual hubs are a bit unique in that respect as they have a bronze bearing at the rear of their assembly that the CV idles on when not engaged. It is possible that this is filled with dirt, mud, or sand and needs to be cleaned. My CV had a horrible grinding noise a while ago and I had to drive with the front end locked in for months until I had the time to take the CVs out and clean the bore they are inserted into. Just somewhere to start I guess.

Nice truck BTW, why did you convert to manual hubs? They are nice to have for sure, but I'm not sure they are worth the extra effort of swapping and some question their strength (although no one has any real data to back up their claims). I like mine, just asking

 

Thanks I thibk that's what I'm going to go with. The camber is what I'm most worried about and these seem to have the best adjustment for it

 

Awesome. I appreciate the response. Yeah the sound went away after I cleaned them and greased the hubs (since the dealership didn't after servicing the wheel bearings. Apparently, they don't consider that a grease-able part). I was just concerned that it may have something with the wheel bearing.

Thanks. I converted my 2wd prerunner to 4wd. I figured that, in terms of wiring, it would be simpler to have manual locking hubs upfront. Instead of having to hassle to mock-up some relays to operate the ADD. So I was fortunate enough to land a great deal on spindles that already had locking hubs from a 98.

 

Question. So as research to futzing with my Cruise Control, I am looking at the manual.
There are 2 CC sections, under di, ccswetcs and ccwoetc.
These refer to CRUISE CONTROL SYSTEMS (w ETCS-i)/(wo ETCS-i)
I am assuming that is Electronic Traction Control System?

 

At Idle (Cell phone).
I'll get some more revving engine clips when the rain stops here.

Revved up a bit (Cell audio only).

 

Pretty sure some models... 03-04 had electronic throttle, could be that I guess. Just looked it up, it is electric throttle.

 

That has to be it. It makes more sense than Traction Control. Electronic Throttle Control System a/k/a the drive by wire which has different pieces (ECU module, etc) than the throttle cable system, which others have mentioned before...

 

Mini photoshoot or idiot standing in the rain? Idk

 

that is also a viable option...

 

.......bahahahahahahah

 

ETCS-i stands for electronic throttle control system - intelligent.


The ETCS on first gens (2003 and 2004 only) still had a cable though.

 

Someone remind me again, does it matter whether cvs are ADD or manual?

 

I believe manual hub CV's have a slightly smaller shaft and/or different spline count on the hub side.

 

Thanks I thought so.

 

note to self: do not use plastidip if its windy out...

 

*or any spray paint for that mattter