2016 BBP audio build

By splicing into a LOC such as an LC7i, correct?

 

Thanks for all the information.

I am planning to upgrade my audio system (DCLB 3rd Gen) and want to make sure I have it all figured out before I start ordering product. I plan to use the Metra harnesses as described to connect into my factory HU without altering any wiring. From there I plan to run speedwire to a Pioneer 5-Channel Amp (high level inputs) and speedwire from the amp back to the harness / factory wiring. I'm planning to do this upgrade in 2 stages to keep the costs down. Initially I plan to install the 5-channel amp and a single 10" shallow mounting sub. Figure I will keep the gains turned down slightly for the door speakers so as not to over power the cheap factory speakers.

For the second stage of this, I plan to replace all the door speakers, add sound deadener to the doors while I'm in there and I'll likely run new wires to the speakers at that point as well.

Just wondering if anyone sees any issues with running the factory door speakers and factory wiring through this 5-channel amp for the time being ?

http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-GM-D9...rue&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_4&smid=A66MBWMVVRUO1

Subwoofer I am looking at:

Pioneer TS-SWX2502 10" Shallow-Mount Pre-Loaded Enclosure

http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TSSWX...rue&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_6&smid=ASGHU1PFY7LBZ

I know its not ideal however it has got to be a bit of an upgrade from stock right ?

The door speakers I am looking at for the second stage of this install are Polk's

Front:

Polk Audio DB6501 6.5" 2-Way Component System (Pair, Silver)

http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB...ue&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_8&smid=A1AUFI5NHGNZ61

Rear: http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB...ue&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_7&smid=A12KEZCG9I0IOM

Only thing that I am having some issues with wrapping my head around out is how to wire in the crossovers with new wires...I haven't seen any "how to's" to get fresh wiring into the tweeter location on the 3rd gen's.

Any reviews anyone has on my proposed set up would be much appreciated. I'm quite new to anything car audio related and have never had anything but a stock system. I'm not looking for anything spectacular just looking for a solid upgrade from stock, some bass from a sub and want to keep costs down $500ish total.

I mostly listen to country music but also sample a good variety of everything else.

 

Yes exactly.

 

My advice would be to hold off on the sub and do the door speakers first. The main reason I'm recommending this is if you want to power your stock peakers through the stock wiring with your 5 channel amp you will have to run a second set of speedwire back to the stock harness from that amp. If you go with the way you are thinking you will have to do this now then run more wire later for the mids and tweets. I wouldn't want to have to wire everything twice and waste the money on the second set of speedwire.

Also I really don't recommend to run your amp strait off the high level output of the stock deck. Crap in, crap out. You will be just amplifying a garbage signal. I highly recommend to do a signal processor like an audio control lc6i or something along those lines. It cleans up the garbage signal coming from the deck. It will be an extra 100 bucks but in the long run it will be worth it.

It is super easy to run the wire to the tweeters in the dash? You can basically just drop the wire down and grab it from under the dash. You can hide your crossovers in the kick panels or up under the dash. I have pics of how to run the speaker wire into the doors through the grommet, it is not that difficult to do.

That's just my two cents on your build and how I would approach it. Hopefully this helps.

Also, this is not an easy install even for an experienced person. I did a bit more than you are planning with carpeting the back wall and the boxes but not much. I have been installing audio for fun for 20 years and I worked on my truck for over 50 hours and I'm still not completely done as it sits. I would recommend to have someone professionally installed for you.

 

You can also follow my build in "my audio build" as I just finished what I think a couple people here are trying to do. I took a good amount of pictures too.

 

Trying to jack my thread? Haha just messing with you. I just want everyone to get the help they need.

 

Does wiring straight into the amp from the head unit using the high level inputs really sound like crap ?
I've heard mixed reviews on this with newer amps being pretty good at taking signal straight from a stock HU and converting the sound as needed. The amp even has the ability to set a high pass or low pass filter on each of the channels.http://[URL=http://s1085.photobucket.com/user/mtn700/media/Screen%20Shot%202016-05-15%20at%207.30.36%20PM.png.html][ATTACH=full]1868236[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]1868236[/ATTACH]

I've had a look at the AudioControl products (LC7i) and have heard some people complaining about issues with static / unwanted feedback noise. I guess my question is there going to be a major difference in sound between adding an LC7i vs. just using the high level inputs on the amp ?

I'm curious to hear if anyone has experience with both.
I get its not a completely straight forward install however I don't have any concerns about being able to do it myself.

 

I have the LC2i (same things just less channels, I think) and I don't have any problems with static or feedback. It goes: Head Unit -> LC2i -> amp(s) -> crossovers -> speakers

 

Appreciate the help and if it wasn't for TW I wouldn't have as much confidence getting it done as I do.
I've ruled out the need for a signal processor...just way more than what I am looking for in a system.
Right now I'm just torn between adding an LC7i or just giving the SP input that is built into the amp a try and seeing how it performs.

 

The lc7i is a signal processor though.

Must be one of thone things that have different names. Signal summing, processing, line output converter.

I think you will be happier by using the lc7i as opposed to going strait from the deck to the amp.

 

Yeah, I was thinking more along the lines of having ruled out a high end digital sound processor like the Audison BitOne I've seen on another install (way more than I need).

 

I more than agree with you there. I went with a kicker zxsum8 signal summing unit I guess. Maybe I better stop calling it a signal processor. My bad man.

 

As long as your amp accepts speaker level outputs you should be fine. I wired directly from the HU to my amp (Arc Audio 450.4) and the sound is excellent, very clean.

Your crossover's (R&L) will have two outputs, one for your front door speaker and one for your tweeter. Just wire the amp front speaker output into the crossover input terminals and run separate speaker wire from the crossover outputs to the front door speaker and tweeter.

 

Give me a call when you have a few minutes Jeremy!

 

Calling is easiest however PM is fine as well!

 

Seriously anxiously waiting for that damn sound deadener gb to finish up so I can rip up my new truck and install this mountain of audio upgrade parts I have for it. In the mean time.... I guess I'll start on the metra harness->speed wire part.
Any recommendations of how to do the amp wiring? I know I will be running 2 amps in the future, 1 for the doors/tweets and 1 mini for the sub. Could I use 1/0 from the battery to a dist block that splits into 2 4g power? And use a big amp in the 180+(or more?) range?

Like this:

SoundBox Connected 0 Gauge Amp Kit Amplifier Install Wiring 1/0 Ga Power Installation Cables 4000W- Extra Long 25 Ft. Red Power Cable

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00K...1_1?colid=38W3KFXAKDV7D&coliid=I21HIED33O8M8T
And:

$29 Nippon EFB24084ANL Audiopipe Premium 2 Position ANL Fused Distribution Block

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00N...1_2?colid=38W3KFXAKDV7D&coliid=I3RT9LXDNNDRRG

 

The bad thing is since you have the JBL system you can't use the metra harness. You will have to find the jbl amplifier and use the speaker leads off that as Mr Marv said.

 

So even though I am trashing the stock amp/sub I have to use the speaker leads from the stock amp? That makes no sense...

 

The head unit is different I'm guessing. Non amplified so you will have to keep the jbl amplifier.