Towing experiences

I have a Kubota BX23 tractor (with FEL and backhoe) that I'd like to be able to transport with my 2015 Tacoma. The BX23 weighs in around 2700#. From what I've read a 16' trailer works out just about perfect for the BX23, so I'm looking at a trailer that size, dual axles with brakes. It would be a flat bed but I'd like some short walls in case I'd want to haul wood, stone, sand, etc.. Seems trailers of this configuration generally run 1500-1800#.

I have the factory tow package on my Tacoma, so I believe the tow rating is 6500#. The above described situation would put me at around 4500#. But I've also read that the ratings they give trucks these days are a little overly generous. I wouldn't be hauling this tractor often; and when I would the majority of the time I'd be moving it about 5 miles on back roads.

I have some experience towing, but typically with a smaller trailer and just with a small lawn tractor or a quad.

Does anyone have any significant experience towing this amount with any significant frequency with their 2nd gen Tacoma? How's it handle? Maintenance issues? Any comments or advice?

Thanks

 

It'll tow it fine. My travel trailer is about 4500 dry and I tow it in the sierras. I can keep it over 55mph even in the passes.

Keep it in 4 and if you tow often follow the service recommendations in the manual.

 

I tow 4-5K regularly. Obviously you'll want a good amount of tongue weight to avoid a tail wagging the dog situation.

So, you'll want to add Dakars or bags IMO. I actually have both.

My 14' Big Tex

 

Thanks guys. When I tow lighter loads with smaller trailers I feel like it has a substantial effect, so it just seems hard to believe I could safely pull 4.5-5k without issue. It's possible though that I'm just not distributing weight correctly on the trailers when I'm hauling things. Maybe I'm putting too much weight toward the front of the trailer.

 

Pulled a trailer full of mulch home a month or so ago and after that thought that pulling my 3700lb camper was going to be a nightmare. Hooked up and pulled it to the campground with wife, kids, dogs, and all the other junk. Much to my surprise truck did great, wife got tired of hearing me talk about how pleased I was with its performance. Sometimes I guess an ill balanced light trailer is more frustrating to pull than a well balanced heavier load.

 

That's what I'm hoping.

I borrow a friend's homemade trailer a lot and the axle is mounted much too far back. Basically any load on that trailer will be in front of the axle. Normally I'm only hauling a quad, so it's not that bad, but it's a heavy trailer and certainly makes a difference. I've hauled a small lawn tractor on it as well.

Borrowed a different trailer recently to haul a small lawn tractor a few times and tonight I hauled a load of topsoil when I returned it to the owner. The lawn tractor I had all the way to the front of the trailer just because I thought I could secure it best there. The topsoil I had mostly just ahead of and over the axle. In both cases I did feel like the front end was a little light. It wasn't a problem and the truck handled fine for the most part, but I was also really babying it.

I'll need to borrow that same trailer again in 2-3 weeks to haul a lawn tractor again. Next time I'll try centering it over the axle and see what kind of difference that makes.

Thanks

 

I'd give serious thought to a flat bed trailer with lots of stake pockets on the side. That way you can make wood sides with uprights to fit in the pockets to haul loose stuff but still have the flexibility of weird sized loads that might not fit within the sides of a trailer like pictured above.

A flat deck will give you much more flexibility in where you can chain a load. A box style trailer you're limited to tie downs inside the bed or going over the sides which puts a lot of torque on your sidewalls.

You're likely to find a 7k rated trailer in that size. 16-18' with dual axles and preferably brakes on both axles. I'd also recommend the 18' instead of the 16. If you take off the backhoe and install a bush hog it will be a long load.

Couple of other tips if you're not experienced in towing a tractor:

1. Use a MINIMUM of two chains and binders or HEAVY (3-4" wide commercial grade) straps. Pull toward the front of the trailer with one and the rear with the other, so they tighten against each other. Put your chain or strap at about a 45* angle. Straight and down has no forward or back resistance, and a really shallow angle won't hold it down tight enough.

2. Be really careful what you chain or strap over. The round tube in the middle of a loader looks very convenient but make sure you don't crush the hydraulic lines running across it. I've also seen people strap across the driveshaft on a bush hog (a rotary cutter for you Yankees), with disastrous results. In the rear I like to put a pull pin in my drawbar and run the chain over, then back under and wrap around the chain and to the far side. Then when I pull tight on the chain, it's pulling tight on both sides. Wish I could describe that better.

3. I always line up the center of my rear tractor tire over the gap between the axles. This has always helped me center the load on the trailer while leaving enough tongue weight. My rule of thumb has been a drop of anywhere from 2-6" at the bumper is plenty of squat. Gotta have some, as the tail wagging the dog is not an experience for the faint of heart.

Hope this helps

 

Here's a couple of pics of the topsoil from tonight. As you can see, it's not much. But like I said, maybe I should have loaded it back a little more.

 

Thanks for the tips!

I'm leaning toward something like this: http://www.gatormade.com/utility-trailers/utility-trailer-6x16-rear-gate/

I still have reading to do in reference to Gatormade. Seems like some love them and some hate them.

 

OP the gate on that trailer better be stout to run a tractor up and down it. Check weight on tractor with the loader and backhoe, add 10% for fuel, fluid in tires, etc. and contact the trailer manufacturer and make sure their ramp will stand that.

Personally I hate gates on a trailer, they catch wind like a frigging sail on a boat. No problem till about about 40-45 mph, then it takes a ton of hp and fuel to get to 55-60. Look at their equipment trailer line and one like their GT-XT in a 7k would be what I'm recommending. I know Big Tex, Anderson, and lots of other companies make them.

 

I did consider that I'd need to check with the manufacturer to see what weight they rate that gate for, but hadn't really considered the wind a problem since it's not solid. Definitely something I'll look into though.

 

I tow a 14x7 ft enclosed trailer with 2 quads, 1 dirtbike, and all the gear.

Keep the tongue weight close to 600lbs IMO

Works fine for me.

Keep it in 4 or lower, depending on the situation.

 

Any idea what all that might weigh?

How do you know what your tongue weight is?

 

I just bought a scale that weighs up to 700lbs.

I dont remember off the top of my head.

I can go check the trailer tomorrow and let you know.

BUT I want to say 4k for trailer.


320 each quad
200 dirt bike
4-500 gear.

 

increase the size of transmission cooler

pulling a 6x10 single axle utility with drop gate, as said, it's catches air over 45mph, and trans temps went up QUICK ( it was a 98° day ) trailer wasn't loaded, but temps hit 200° on a long hill trying to maintain speed.
pulling our 3500lb pop-up camper temps never approach 170° on same hill. I have not upgraded trans cooler yet, it's on the short list.

 

Trans cooler, and make sure trailer brakes work.

 

Not sure about trailers back east, but out here there is a relatively cheap one made by Carson 16ft. 7k rated or you can get a 10k rated one. The distance from the center of the front axle hub to the coupler was 12ft. even. Thing towed like a dream! Never did weigh tongue weight with my FJ 40, I would simply drive on until the back of my 1st gen Tundra dropped 2-3 inches which seemed about good for tongue weight and then pumped the air bags up to make it back to stock height. Towed like a dream and the 1st gen Tundra is the same dimensions as my 2nd Gen Taco Pro (Pro is 3 inches narrower). Weight was a tad over 6k which is more than I think I would tow with the Taco, but at 4k or so you should be fine. Tongue weight should never be more than 10% of load weight. Too little and it will wag you all over the place, but too much is not great either. If in doubt err on the side of a tad too much tongue weight without overly squatting your tow rig as that will make your front end too light. Equalizer hitch with sway control is also highly recommended. Didn't use the equalizer with the Tundra as I could control tongue weight with load placement, but always ran a sway control set up. Brakes on both axles will also help.

 

This is what i tow

 

You are towing the wrong color tractor!

Your truck will tow this load just fine. Here's a pic of my '13 towing the right color tractor.

It's a Deere 3520 that weighs approx. 3800lbs with the loader.

Be sure to use a weight distribution hitch. rkd has good advice in post #7. The position of the tractor on the trailer will determine the tongue weight.

Enjoy.

 

I considered and grew up with green, but I was able to find what I was looking for in orange first.

Thanks for the reply, pics like that make me feel better about doing this. How's it tow? Do you have much opportunity to tow on hills there?

The most common place I would tow it to wouldn't be too far away, just under 5 miles. But no matter what route I take, I have to go down and back out of a fairly steep creek valley.

Nice looking tractor btw.