What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

the fabtec uses longer struts instead of a spacers unless he added some.

 

Those will only work if you have a drop bracket lift, or change out the lower mount.

The one's for trucks without a DB lift run $1,000 USD new.

Pass.

 

So I'm experiencing a kind of scraping noise from the passenger side front tire. Put it up on the jack and turned it by hand and noticed it was a constant scrap sound, but got louder at a certain point around the turn. Nothing was coming in contact with the rim. The rotor did have a noticeable line going through it. Time to change those out? The constant scraping also was on the drivers side but didn't get louder at any point. I recently just replaced all my ball joints and originally thought it was the dust shields touching the rims (I have 15 inch rims) but they aren't. Any help?

 

We sprayed my truck. Way way faster. If you have the equipment to spray it then do it. You can roll it if you want.

 

The solid axle ones are one thing. You are partially correct it's not the hub strength. It's the thinner outer CV shaft. If you spend enough time to research you will find that a lot of people have damaged their manual hubs when breaking the CV. On one of our TW meets in NE a couple years ago a friend suffered spectacular damage with his Destroyed his CV, Hub and spider gears. I will try to get the pictures but he was never a member here.

 

Dozens of trips over the Rubicon and Fordyce trails in my old '84, and never broke a thing, not even the 'J' arm (never switched to cross-over ). Found lots of broken pieces of Warn hubs, though. Stock toyota OEM will get you home. Also, you gotta know how to drive. Its called rock-crawling, not rock-racing.

I must admit, though, I haven't done either of those trails with my IFS Tacoma
("Whats the matter McFly . . . . . . chicken? ")

 

How much did you use? I'll have to roll....

 

I think it was a 2 gallon kit

 

Sounds like a stuck caliper, you'll want to replace the caliper and get new brake pads and rotors for both sides.

 

Got these back from powder coat today.. Front is a all pro baja an the back is a relentless WIY

 

Think it's safe to drive in the meantime? Brakes still feel fine to me

 

Yah its probably fine, I drove mine that way all of last summer. You'll lose a bit of power and MPG from the brake dragging. For what it's worth I got AutoZone reman calipers and their ceramic pads and plain rotors all together for about 160 for both sides.

 

Should be for a bit but brakes are important.

Before you go to swap the pads and rotors you should check to see if you have a stuck caliper as well as worn pads. Before you buy parts check the wear on your pads and if one is worn much more than the other (usually the inner pad on these) you may want to grab a caliper before you go to do it.

In my experience it's always the inner Pistons that freeze and usually the lower, and in my 8 years of 1st gen ownership iv done 4 calipers, I think it's fairly common on these trucks, especially if you get a lot of grit/mud in the brake calipers.

 

Thanks guys I appreciate the help. One thing I forgot to mention... i have never replaced the rotors on this truck yet. As I was doing the ball joints on the passenger side (problem side) I noticed the rotor was seated loose putting the tire back on. Most likely from my multiple swings from the hammer. Thought i had it back on in the right position but is it possible it wasn't seated correctly? I can't believe I'm just now thinking of this. By the time I was done with the ball joints I wouldn't have cared if my engine blew up I was just so done with everything after getting those damn things in.

 

If you took the caliper off the rotor and pushed the Pistons back to get it back one you would had a floppy rotor so to speak untill you torqued the wheel on.

If you didn't remove the caliper the rotor should have been held tight by the caliper. But if you managed to fight it enough to move the Pistons you would have encountered the same thing. Either way I wouldn't be worried about it.

 

Where abouts do you live @reef ?

 

British Columbia

 

Oh ok thanks, did you do inside the bed too? I think I'm gonna do the color that's looks like the 2016 tan.

 

To me this sounds just like a dust shield touching the rotor. Especially since you were just in there manhandling the spindle to do your ball joints. Those dust shields are really flimsy and easy to move around.

If it was me (and it has been), I would pull the wheel and bend the dust shield way from the rotor, all the way around, just to verify it isn't something simple to fix before you start throwing money at it.

Not saying these guys are wrong. It could be a frozen caliper but it also could be the dust shield.