What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Lol yes

 

Wanted to post this so the next person that runs into the same problem I had want have the same problems. If you need a Throttle Position Sensor # 89452-35030 you cant get it from Toyota, you have to buy an $800 to $1200 throttle body. BUT you can get the Throttle Position Sensor 89452-35030 from here.

I removed the link from above the link that Was posted sent me to wrong part and it was used. Had to get Paypal to get my money back.

 

Drove 700km and burned alot of gas...

 

https://parts.camelbacktoyota.com/p...IN CONTROL&component=THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR

 

Finally got around to adding extra storage.
I like the extra space and the fact that it doesn't take up half of my tiny bed.

 

Wat

 

My bad, did not mean to quote your post too.

 

Is this the same part though? This part and his part are two different part numbers?

 

Fixed my exhaust leak.

 

-50 expo points

 

I see your truck around town all the time. Looks good. Hope to make one of their runs soon.

 

Brought my truck in for a 4WD diagnosis today. Pretty sure they didn't even diagnose it. They took maybe a half hour and told me my the actuator on the transfer case isn't operating and needs to be replaced. It's clear to me that they didn't do much testing other than driving it around the block and verifying that it's not operating. But I know for a fact that actuator works. I believe it's the front actuator that's disrupting it.

If I disconnect the plug for the ADD actuator, then the trans case actuator operates as it should. The 4WD button turns it "on" and "off" consistently. But if I reconnect the ADD actuator, the t. case one stops working. I've been figuring it's the ADD actuator, but wanted confirmation from a dealer or to find out it's some electrical part that's shorted or something, and disrupting the full operation of the 4WD. I still think it's the ADD actuator. I'm just hesitant to pay for one and find out it's not the part.

FWIW, they haven't yet charged me for the diagnosis. I guess they're waiting to see if I follow up and get the work done. Fuck that. Quoted me $1229.46 for just the actuator (which is almost double what I see online) and $1020 for labor for a grand total of $2149.46. Not a chance. I'm assuming if I don't follow up, they'll send me a bill for the diagnosis fee ($115). If so, I plan on going back and demanding a true diagnosis to tell me what the problem actually is or that the b.s. diagnosis is waived or greatly discounted. I've been unsure about this dealer for a bit now and this just confirms it more.

 

$1000 labour! Wahhh

 

I know I know, can't be awesome ALL the time

 

When diagnosing the 4x4 its best to have truck jacked up with all wheels off ground so you can see what exactly is engaging.

 

I know. It's absurd. But not surprising. Same place that quoted me $150 to remove my hitch so they could do the spare tire carrier recall.

I would if I could. I am going off of sight and sound. I recall what the t. case actuator sounds like from when my 4WD did work. When the ADD actuator is disconnected, it sounds the same; healthy and electronic. I haven't taken anything apart to see if it's actually moving but based on the sound I imagine it's doing its job. When I disconnect the t. case actuator, the 4x4 lights comes on and blinks but disconnecting the ADD one doesn't. A while back, I used a multimeter to test the connectors and, if I recall, they both showed correct voltage. The only thing I haven't tried is taking things apart and looking.

 

trucks running strange, if i lost a coil would there be a cel?

 

Mine didn't throw one. I just replaced a coil as well.

 

so how would i know which one is bad?

 

Well honestly I pulled all of mine in order and had one that was really burnt and fried looking. Replaced it and have had no problems since. You could do this as well. Haven't tried it though.

http://m.wikihow.com/Test-an-Ignition-Coil