Suspension with 6" lift kit

So I have a 99 4x4 6" lift I just don't know what brand lift and I need front struts but it haves two different struts can some one recognize this struts names or brand thanks I need the one without the coil

 

Looks like the old Trailmaster kit. Don't think they make it anymore, but I believe that old VW Jetta struts work. Don't quote me on that.

*Edit: Found this link, could help you out. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...rut-for-trailmaster-lift.123284/#post-2659594

 

^^^ what he said.

 

I had that lift on my first Tacoma about 16 years ago, the vw struts hold up much better than the tm ones did. It took just a bit of grinding to make them fit, they were a tad longer and the collar wasn't exactly the same, but in the end it was worth swapping them in.

Where the second strut attached at the top eventually failed and the second strut went into my wheel well at about 5mph. The lift was complete junk, I was happy when I got rid of that truck! As I recall, there is just a hard rubber attachment at the top of the added tm bracket held on by three screws, eventually the rubber aged and it just popped right through.

 

Wow thats bad lol What else should I espect to go bad on it??? And what kind of vw and year?

 

total random unrelated BS. I owned a 1983 VW Rabbit GTI and those VW struts were the best things I've ever driven. I could hairpin that car at 45mph and chirp into 3rd every time.

 

Pretty terrible lift, because it eliminates the upper control arm and turns the suspension into a macpherson strut design, with a dodgy upper strut mount that bolts to the OEM shock bucket. The upper strut mount sees high duty cycle because it's also the steering joint, but the materials Trailmaster used aren't durable.

 

My buddy blew out three trail master struts in a week, so definitely expect those to leak and fail in short order. The vw hold up much much better compare to trail master. You'll have to google for part numbers, like I said I had the lift 16+ years ago.

When installed, your cross member needs to be cut out. I know you can return to stock, but I believe that needs to be welded back in? Again, foggy memory.

And as mentioned, you don't have an upper control arm or upper ball joint. So when the top strut fails it can be rather spectacular compared to a regular failure. And due to the design and materials it's far more likely. Mine happened in a parting lot, so I was lucky for that.

If you want my opinion, replace it with stock or upgraded stock like components. I remember the noises that lift made with a blown second strut, makes me cringe!

 

Typically with those DB lifts that use a big ass spacer above the strut instead of a longer oversized strut,(with no spacer) they keep to where you just use a stock sized strut. So theres usually no headache there when it comes time to update the shocks.

 

^The Trailmaster lift is kinda "abnormal" with the strut that clamps onto the spindle:



One possible, but spendy, way out is to use the spindles from a Fabtech 6" lift kit along with OEM upper control arms.
FabTech spindle P/Ns: FTS70007D, FTS70007P (they run about $280 ea.)

 

I have this same lift on my truck currently. i haven't had problems with it but i also do not off road. There was a site that had an inversion mod where you flip the top mount but the part number for the struts i use are Part #G44774 they are gabriel struts. If you haven't done the inversion mod you will need to grind down part of the strut like in the link provided by McMash.

 

This is what shows up with that part number now im confuse on how to install it when the old one have 3 holes in the bottom one holding the spindel and the other two holding a cheesy u braket. I know that top strut mount gives out after a wild of use and punch a hole through the fender if it do so is there any other top mount that is better for it? thanks

 

That's the correct strut. If I remember correctly if you slide the boot up there is a collar that holds the strut in if that doesn't do it then its the connecting piece right below that. I think its 4 bolts on the side and I think 1 or 2 on top of the same piece. As for replacing the top mount you can't. The only way around it is to get lift spindles, I think pro-comp made some. But that means removing the strut mount and putting the upper control arms back on. I really don't see how the strut mount give way because its a solid metal piece?? But I have read that about this lift kit

 

Owwww I see now. Never thought it had to be taken apart I thought it was the hold parts together lol so after you did this you haven't had problems with this lift? Are you still running this lift? And would it mess me up when doing an alignment??

 

Don't get the Gabriel struts. Posts on TTora show they can leak pretty quickly, too. Get the Sachs struts I PM'd you, they are better built.

 

Danm I just bought the Gabriel's now.....
Do you know if it's a pain to get it aling with this lift kit?

 

so far i haven't had problems with the lift. I have had the truck since 2008 and had to change the strut when i got it and about a couple years ago, so its not to bad. Also i did the inversion mod the first time i change the struts. You just un-bolt the top mount(3 bolts at the top) grind down the back corner and around the hole that the strut goes through. It allows you to install the struts with out grinding them down and also gives the struts a little more travel before bottoming out. As for alignment i've never got one so i don't know how that would be.

@KenLyns Sachs strut? never heard of em'. Always been using gabriels. Do you happen to know know the part number for them so i can try em' out next time? thanks

 

Don't think I will need the extra travel I'm not doing rock climbing or anything off road.... I know i need an alignment on the truck soon since it's eating the wheels
What size wheels are you running on it?

 

Alignment should be no more difficult than with the stock truck.

Some grinding is involved either way. Either you grind the strut shaft shoulder or you grind the mount like snyper96799 said. Either way your suspension travel would be about the same as a VW Jetta.

Since the strut is for a '91 Jetta 1.8L, there are multiple mfrs. Sachs P/N 031311 is $41 on Rock Auto: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3520380&cc=93&jsn=21 and $38 on FCPEuro: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-strut-cartridge-golf-jetta-031-311

On second look, the Sachs strut body profile is different from Gabriel G44774. It may not make a difference in the VW application but may complicate installation in the Trailmaster spindle bracket. So I would not recommend the Sachs strut.

 

I run 15x14 wheels and 33" inch tires.