Oregon and Washington BS thread

LOL! When you were crawling out of the gatekeeper you kept sticking your arm out, I must've yelled "GET YOUR FUCKING ARM IN" a dozen times. It's crazy the type of strength your arm suddenly gets when your truck gets tippy

 

I had a flash back to you yelling at me.

 

I don't want stock LCA's though.. Uniballs are stronger

LT:
TC +2 race kit $3203
TC extended axles $600
King LT Coil overs $1650 (with clicker adjusters)
Total: $5453. SDHQ TW discount brings it down to $4907, sell my current setup for $1500 (King coil overs, Desert racing UCA's, CVJ axles), down to $3407

MT:
TC UCA's $685
TC LCA's (race series) $1984
Total: $2669, SDHQ TW discount brings it to $2402, add in LCA skids for $150, total is $2552.

I have all the gussets so I didn't factor those in. So for under $1000 more I get more travel and fit 35's a lot easier. I didn't price it out to sound like an ass, mainly for myself to break it down and for anyone else who is curious haha

 

My thoughts exactly!

 

I'll give you a truffle shuffle while you touch my hairy belly button for your MT.

 

I will do that plus 100$ and let you pet my pussy.

@northwesttaco

 

I'm curious how much more up/down travel a LT setup will net you over your current build. Measure all the things! it'll be interesting data to have for anyone considering the same route. Also, will your rear setup keep up with the front without additional work? This is just my loose understanding but I always thought that to fully utilize LT the rear needs to be built up as well, like going SUA, longer shocks, beg cage etc. Then comes glass and rabbit hole continues. I'm just trying to imagine myself in your shoes, if you got all that, what's the next weakest link that'll need to be addressed? Sticking with MT you'd be polishing your current setup to become even more bulletproof/functional. In no way am I saying don't do it, I'm just lookin at all the moving parts and feel it'll take more than $1k to get a LT setup dialed in to perform better than what you're working with. But, it all comes down to your goals and what you're looking to achieve. I support the build regardless of route, just my $.02, and devils advocate nonsense.

 

If I would be pre running in the desert then I'd go SUA, it gets you more up travel/less down travel whereas for crawling I want more down travel. Plus SUA takes away a lot of ground clearance. But no my rear is set, might upgrade to air bumps but that would be it.

 

I agree if you add in TC lca's the price balloons. I was looking at those as well but I couldn't find anyone who had broken a OEM LCA. Actually when I pulled my lca off the balljoint was still in great shape at 140k. I always try to upgrade when I replace stuff but this was one case where OEM seems to do the job well. Also the lower uniball gets blasted with a serious amount of grime and I think the fully protected and covered ball joint is better for use on the wet side. My first set of upper uni's lasted four years before corroding and I just went through replacing the lower sphericals in my icons and were completely trashed so I'm sensitive to adding more maintenance points now.

With that said tc +2 looks like the perfect step up from MT.

 

You also get more down travel with SUA. I have mine strapped at 18" of droop, but it can go to 20" (axle tube to frame). It articulates well, and the leaves on the bottom of the axle kind of act as ramps to get you over boulders. The only place it sucks is deep mud, everywhere else SUA wins. If you have more travel in the front than the rear it will buck a lot at speed, but if you only putt around it won't matter much.

 

Look at that droop!!

 

After getting the kit on, I was surprised how much it effected the turning radius of the truck. I'm not sure if this is due to LT or just being completing out of alignment. I think this is the biggest let down so far.

 

Huh, for some reason I thought I they didn't. Thats crazy

Really? I haven't heard that before. I guess im used to bad turning radius's though, I DD a volvo s60 haha

 

haha, yeah compared to my tundra its a huge difference, i only got to drive the taco twice before i started tearing it apart, so i'm not the best judge on stock to LT.

 

Mine turns sharper than stock, something must be fubar. Mine will turn sharp enough the steering arm hits the coils. The bottom mounts for the LCA/spindle are easy to get the wrong direction. Also check your steering stops.

The other benefit of SUA most people don't consider is anti-squat. When you hammer the throttle on an SUA truck, the spring wrap actually forces the rear axle down which greatly aids in traction. Ever notice how a normal spring over truck will crow hop and break traction pretty easy? SUA doesn't do that. I can bounce my motor off the rev limiter, step off the clutch, and it just hooks up and goes. Sure it spins some, but it's a smooth launch not a chattering lurching mess.

 

Yeah it kinda sucks sometimes. I have to take both rear tires off to put it on jackstands, and I have to use the longer hi-lift to get a tire to lift!

 

I have them on correct. The limiting factor is the steering stops hitting the LCA.

 

Trim them with a grinder. I think I cut mine off completely, but don't remember exactly what I did.

 

Its a problem people just dont seem to understand about having LT. Drives me nuts having to stack wood and stuff every time

 

Just winching around campus haha