Orange County CAF's: up to no good

If that is the case then, hey, "my bad" and I admit to it, of course. But I'm reading it the other way around with how Mike worded it??? I don't know? Again, my bad, if that is the case.

 

I would check the quotes. If I remember correctly Denny quoted 2 of Mike's posts in one message, so when Mike responded, he did so in one message as well.

 

Ahhhh, that's what is called "taking things out of context", LOL!!! Sometimes, you just need to add a bit more information when it comes to certain things. I can see it, but at the same time I can see it the way I had originally read it as well. But hey, like I said, if I am wrong about it then I am wrong about it and that's "my bad" and I accept that. Either way thanks for clarifying Kyle

NOW, about that CB of yours, OR, were you not able to get it yet???

 

Bottom of my list of things to buy. I might need new camshafts now and with this job not panning out well it's not looking good

 

Hey Kyle, what about going to a junkyard??? Come down from the top of that F'N rock of yours that you live on and let's go to a junk yard???!!! I have MOST of the tools that anyone would need for engine repair/dismantle? We could meet halfway somewhere and I can pick you up and go from there maybe???

 

I go to junkyards all the time. I actually have a 90 4runner up here I've been ripping parts out of for sometime now. For the cams if I'm going to replace them I think I'd rather go new. You never know if the ones from a junkyard are truly good or not. They can have uneven wear amongst other things. Another reason I'd want to go new is because according to all the research I did on these head gasket issues, if you get some performance cams they are supposed to help prevent further breaks in the gasket. Just not sure that is an upgrade I can pull off right now

 

Wow, I didn't know cams can affect/blow the hg in an engine??? Is it somehow related to a timing chain thing or something, connecting to the crankshaft, which is connected to the rods, which is connected to the pistons, etc etc etc and producing some sort of F'd-up backpressure within the engine to eventually blow the hg???

 

Different things cause head gaskets to blow in different engines. For the 3.0 there were a lot of small issues that combined created almost guaranteed failure. Toyota wasn't allowed to use the original asbestos gaskets that they wanted to use originally and didn't take the time to properly R&D new ones before flooding the market. Another cause is the location of the crossover pipe from the passenger side, it sits right behind the heads and causes unnecessary heat on the gasket and premature wear. 90%+ of the time the gasket blows at the number 6 or number 1 cylinders because they are closest to the crossover. And lastly as you said the pressure creates an issue too. So 3 of the solutions to the HG issue include Multilayer steal gaskets with machined heads and block, aftermarket headers that crossover underneath the vehicle (outrageously expensive because companies know its nearly a perfect fix), and lastly the performance cams. the way they do that is the lobes are slightly advanced and so they open the valves a tiny bit earlier, creating less pressure and supposedly more power according to YotaTech. Kind of a win win if you get them and the thread is true. I need to find that thread again

The best overall fixes however are the header and multilayer steel gaskets. The gaskets handle the heat better and the headers eliminate it. Heat is the number 1 cause for the gasket to blow. That's why mine has been fine all these years until I took it into AZ

 

Regarding my conversation in a very recent post just above, I wish I could get a tire changer (i.e. both the COATS4040A and the Rim Clamp Euros) along with a Hunter9000 tire balancer and I could easily do it for any of you for cheaper! With the only exception of any tire that is above 31's!!! I mean, you start getting into 33's and 35's and those things or so FUGLY OOR (Out Of Round) most of the time it usually takes quite a bit of weights (hammer on or tape) and can be VERY HARD on the tire balancer motor itself!!! That would be my only reason for not doing anything above 31's because it is "almost" pointless at that point. I'm NOT saying those bigger sizes don't NEED to be balanced, just harder on the balancer and it's not like I have a "fleet" of balancers to burn up along with the cash, LOL!!! I mean, I can remember, more than once, having to F'N balance "Thornbirds", what a F'N joke THAT was, LOL!!! It was like hammering on 100 lbs of lead on to a wheel just to slightly get it balanced, LOL!!! OMG, those were the days, LOL!!! I had one customer that used to "bird eye" while I was balancing his biga$$ tires and it would be 1/4oz off and I'd have to "ZERO" it??? F'N douche, I swear!!! DUDE, with those tire sizes, you are NOT going to feel 1/4oz OFF, believe meeeeee!!! LOL!!! But hey, "customer is always right"???!!! I only have 235's on my bucket and I am pretty damn sure that at least 1 out of the 4 is a 1/4oz off and the damn rust bucket feels just fine to me is the point that I'm getting at!!!

Anyways, I wish I had my own little shop and that would be pretty cool/sweet to do!

 

You're telling me. I have training on tire machines and used to mess with my wheels all the time. I took a rim with a messed up bead and was eventually able to get it to hold 40 psi perfectly fine with the weight of the car on it. This was only achieved after 2 weeks of putting it on and taking it off the bead repeatedly and blasting it with bead sealer. Probably put 2 pounds of it in there. ALl that work pretty much made me the tire expert in the shop. My old autoshop teacher actually asked me to teach his beginners how to use it this year. Was a big honor being trusted for a task like that

 

Thanks for that information Kyle! Why not make a new crossover using copper tubing to get it further away from the head itself? My dad made one out of copper tubing for a Dodge 2.2L non-turbo engine that I had back in the day. That car was def gutless, but man it was soooo easy to work on when needed, which wasn't very often!!! Pretty reliable engine, with the only exception of the valve cover gasket. It had a tendency to eventually leak a little oil!!! I mean it was a "steel" valve cover on an aluminum head on a steel block, LOL!!! What a combination that was???!!! The main problem is that steel and aluminum have different heat expansion/contraction rates, soooooooooo, the two don't mix together very well, LOL!!! Other than that, it was a pretty damn reliable car, for sure!!! I miss that thing!!!

Anyways, take into consideration of trying to somehow reroute the crossover as that might help as well???!!! Just food for thought Kyle!!!

 

"Grease" chalk and bead sealer FTW, but only after you have slightly "undamaged" the wheel!!! That combo would usually "cure" F'd-up beads on a wheel, but the real fix would be to take the "wheel bender" and bend back the steel wheel as best as you could OR send the aluminum wheel to a shop so they can "heat" it to make it soft enough to bend back! Either way, yeah, I've had my definite fair share of F'd-up wheels, LOL!!!

 

It was considered but I don't have the skill or materials to do such a job. Not to mention then I have to worry about smog legality and lots of other bs. The gaskets are supposed to be pretty fool proof if done correctly and as long as I avoid the desert like the plaque I should be set. Thing wouldn't have made it to 260k if it was super unstable.

On another note I did buy a roll of heat wrap so that crossover isn't forgetten. That should help the problem big time

 

Tried to undamaged it but the rim just wasn't having it. Oh well, like everything else 4runner related I made it my bitch and made it work. I'll show you it one day, It's my new spare

 

To make the tubing, it was just basically "soldered" together using your basic hand torch! Also, that car passed smog numerous times, BUT, I will admit, that was quite a few years back and good ol' Kali has changed quite a bit since then!!! F'N desk jockeys sitting in office!!!

One thing you COULD try, make the tubing and get it as far away from the head as possible AND heat wrap it, but, at the same time, keep your OEM crossover tubing just in case you do have to replace it if they give you krap about it???!!! But, it would def be a win-win to reroute the tubing AND heat wrap the thing at the same time!!! Just my 2cents on it.

 

Come on 730am, graveyard sucks haven't done it for 8 years now...

 

I just MIGHT get a very similar schedule Sandz. So yeah, I hear ya. BUT, I really do need a break from "customers" as I've pretty much been in customer related positions ever since and I am in need of a change of pace for sure. I need a job that has very little to NO customer related type interfacing. Obviously co-workers is NOT an issue, just "outside voices" (i.e. non-co-worker), if you will. I mean all of this as a job, of course.

Look at it this way, tic, tic, tic, tic... just 3hrs 37min (approx) from now!!! LOL!!! tic, tic, tic...

 

LOL!!! Good morning ALL of you TW people and good night for me, LOL!!! See you all when I'm back on at about 6am, 2hrs from now, LOL!!!

 

Got some tools delivered yesterday. Pretty happy about it. Have a few more 1/2" drive sockets to order but they're not on the student discount list and at about $60 for some of them, I'll just wait until I get a job first.

 

Id suggest one of the Harbor Freight General boxes. They're better quality than Craftsman and can be had for really cheap if you keep an eye out for coupons. My box was about $2300-$2500 (can't remember).