2.7 OEM transmission cooler

hello all, I'm just wondering if anyone has ever added the OEM transmission cooler to their 2.7 auto. I'm considering adding one and wanted to see if there are any issues thanks

 

The oil cooler is actually 2 part on my 5 lug. One line enters the radiator and the other exits and makes a few s-bends before dumping back in to the transmission. Honestly the type T-IV ATF is good for a much higher transmission temp than most people ever see. If you make 240 degrees I'd begin to worry. I monitor the line temp after the torque converter and before the radiator. Highest I have ever seen is 225 with a bed beyond full of logs. Had no more suspension travel and pulling some hills in 1st.

 

Thanks for the info, I don't really tow or anything. I have just always had coolers on my trucks, always drove ford. With your info I feel better just leaving it stock.

 

Not sure I want to leave it to chance regarding the lack of a trans cooler...Not disputing 2.7 taco....I'll be doing some southwestern desert driving & don't want to have a non cooler regret....I would like to install an OEM cooler, but not sure if I have to change the lines...I don't know of a 2.7 with a trailer pgk. and don't want to hack the cooler lines, would like it be a factory appearance.... Would like advise if anyone installed one.....Thanks

 

I'm looking for someone to "Blaze the Trail" on a 16 Taco 2.7 Trans Cooler too ;-) ........ and give us the straight skinny and ungarbled Word!!

 

One thing I learned is to go with an aftermarket

$185 Derale 52506 25 Row Core Stacked Plate Cooler Kit , Black

Derale 52506 cooler & a Scan Gage......

 

I'm been doing the OEM parts research and its around $400 from what I can tell. Will update when I figure everything out.

 

From what I have been reading, sounds like the OEM does not cut the mustard...Would rather go larger than smaller.....Thanks for your efforts...

 

Looking at doing the same thing. I didn't want to pay for the tow package. I added my own Curt receiver and hitch and also looking for a transcooler. Don't really know if i want to go OEM or Aftermarket.

 

The A340E will not lock the converter unless over 100-110 degrees. Now the question is how hot is too hot. Over 235 the temp will begin to skyrocket in comparison to just slow heating. Now the ATF passes through the section of the radiator cooling it to + 20or - 20 degrees depending on if your hot or cold. If your hot and running 225 at the converter to cooler line after the radiator you will drop Temps lower than engine operating temps. Remember there is a small loop of tubing (air cooled section). For the life of me I can't remember if it's before or after the radiator.
Anyway too cool is a problem too as the viscosity plays into shift feel. I have shims under the 1/2 and 2/3 shift accumulators. I intentionally left overdrive(4th)/reverse accumulator alone as I did not want to induce added stress to the overdrive clutches.

Now back on topic. Plate and fin coolers are small but very effective. If you really want to cool the ATF go up one line size. Example if the factory size is 3/8 then up size to 1/2 and slow the oil down and stay in the cooler a bit longer. If you are in cold climates the proper way to hook up an auxiliary cooler is transmission output to cooler, cooler to radiator, radiator to transmission. Yes, that effectively heats up the ATF to nearly the same as without an additional cooler. So now I'm sure your wondering why go through all the extra effort to cool the ATF only to heat it back up? The answer is simple the air cooler knocks the excessive ATF temp down and the radiator maintains the constant temp required for proper operation.

Sorry for being long winded. I hope that sheds some light on the subject.

 

I have to admit this is a bit over my head...My thought was put a boot over the cooler in the winter & have it exposed in the summer...We also have a Ram 1500 that has a factory tow pgk & coolers for the A/T & P/S...Those coolers are exposed 12 months...Why would the Taco be any different than the Ram?

 

Thanks for the great answer

 

A completely valid question. The answer is a thermostat built into the cooler housing or a cooler sized just large enough to take the edge off. Most of the time they use a thermostatic rod that under heat expands and pushes the valve open which forces the oil through the cooler. When it's not hot enough it just returns to the pan.

 

Any time.

 

Learned something new...so really the smaller OEM one would be adequate? My concern is desert driving in the summer, along with the bed being somewhat loaded....

 

The OEM would be more than sufficient.

Try running an ATF Temp gauge with an RTD in the transmission pan and you will be pleasantly surprised.

 

Sorry RTD is an industry term. Transmission temp probe threaded into the pan.

 

How about a scan gauge instead?

 

It reads off of an internal sensor. Not 100% sure of its location within the valve body but normally it will be about 10 - 15 degrees different than pan temperature. Pan temperature will be cooler.

What's the current running temp?

 

Your talking to an ole skool guy...when every time you dropped a transmission pan it leaked ever since...I remember in the service a guy had a 64 Chevy SS with a power glide stationed in New Mexico. The transmission hup got so hot you could not keep your hand on it...as a result it developed a whine...Even a scan gauge is a challenge for me....