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Long Travel BS Thread

Discussion in 'Long Travel Suspension' started by amaes, Aug 20, 2010.

  1. May 28, 2016 at 3:15 PM
    chulsey4

    chulsey4 Well-Known Member

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    Hey guys. Extremely stuck right now. My CV axle is really pissing me off because it won't come out. I only have the outer side left which is the compression sleeve but I keep hitting it and it won't separate. I've tried the pipe idea and that wasn't working either. Any other ideas?
     
  2. May 28, 2016 at 3:23 PM
    glorifiedwelder

    glorifiedwelder IG= @Liquid_Torch

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    The pipe method works. Just gotta slam it down hard on a steel surface
     
  3. May 28, 2016 at 4:17 PM
    SconnieHailer

    SconnieHailer PutterClutch

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    105 is spec I believe. Been working well fer me.
     
    dakotasyota[QUOTED] likes this.
  4. May 28, 2016 at 5:41 PM
    tfeltz73

    tfeltz73 That's greasy Ricky

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    It works once you find a hard surface and use a pipe that's the just long enough. I started with a long pipe and it wouldn't separate until I shortened it. Once I did that it came apart after a couple hits. I also used a anvil which helped.
     
    chulsey4[QUOTED] likes this.
  5. May 28, 2016 at 6:30 PM
    anthony250f

    anthony250f Well-Known Member

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    I just don't understand why camburg or anyone else hasn't made something like this. Another guy and I were thinking of doing this exact thing for years
     
    06HAOLE and FlapJack935 like this.
  6. May 28, 2016 at 7:04 PM
    FlapJack935

    FlapJack935 i member

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    did he ever say anything back to you in that thread? like price or anything. id buy in a heartbeat.
     
  7. May 28, 2016 at 7:12 PM
    FlapJack935

    FlapJack935 i member

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  8. May 28, 2016 at 7:12 PM
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    ...too much shit to list.
    Because you still have 4 shitty tiny bolts to mount the lower ball joint/uniball adapter to the spindle. No way around that without a new spindle. It's cost prohibitive to redesign a spindle and lower balljoint adapter.


    You aren't going to gain any travel out of a lower uniball. You will sheet the bolts before you'll sheer the balljoint (as long as they are not recall BJs).
     
    DIRT YOTA, 06HAOLE and JuansTaco like this.
  9. May 28, 2016 at 8:07 PM
    chulsey4

    chulsey4 Well-Known Member

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    Any idea the length? Just picked up a 7 ft steel pipe from Lowes and was going to cut it in half to use
     
  10. May 28, 2016 at 8:09 PM
    j0shu4

    j0shu4 98 TRD 4x4, 3.4 Turbo, Full LT, Fully Locked

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    What exactly are you banging out? The front inner cv correct?
     
  11. May 28, 2016 at 8:13 PM
    chulsey4

    chulsey4 Well-Known Member

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    Yup. Really pissed me off today but I think I didn't have the right type of pipe/ a hard enough surface
     
  12. May 28, 2016 at 8:17 PM
    j0shu4

    j0shu4 98 TRD 4x4, 3.4 Turbo, Full LT, Fully Locked

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    Shouldn't it just bang out of the spindle? If you have the inner removed and take off the nut and cotter pin. Use a 3lb slegde. Not sure why you need a pipe. Maybe your 2nd Gen is different.
     
  13. May 28, 2016 at 8:33 PM
    chulsey4

    chulsey4 Well-Known Member

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    My bad, I meant the outer. The inner came off pretty easy with a big enough hammer... The inside is what is stuck
     
  14. May 28, 2016 at 8:36 PM
    Evenflow

    Evenflow Well-Known Member

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    Yes
    second gen is different, last time we did mine one side worked with the pipe method and the second cv bent a press and laughed at the pipe...10 lb sledge with an impact socket and a side of anger
     
    chulsey4 and j0shu4[QUOTED] like this.
  15. May 28, 2016 at 8:49 PM
    glorifiedwelder

    glorifiedwelder IG= @Liquid_Torch

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    The pipe only needs to be a few inches longer than the axle. Make sure you are hitting on a thick piece of steel. I broke a set down a few weeks ago just for the cv stubs. Broke one loose on my welding bench, tried the break the second loose on the concrete and it wouldn't budge. Decided to put my purse down and hit it on a metal arbor plate from my press as hard as I could. Took one hit.
     
    chulsey4 likes this.
  16. May 28, 2016 at 9:59 PM
    anthony250f

    anthony250f Well-Known Member

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    Already limited by the upper uniball and CV axles anyways
     
  17. May 28, 2016 at 11:19 PM
    J.Maynard

    J.Maynard Well-Known Member

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    -K&N cold air Intake, Spintech catback exhaust with fender outlet, Total Chaos Front Long Travel with Fox 2.5 10" coilover, Bed cage with Fox 2.5 16" smoothies with dsc, TC shackles, fiberwerx bedsides, frame boxing,
    same man that thing looks super sweet!
     
  18. May 28, 2016 at 11:24 PM
    J.Maynard

    J.Maynard Well-Known Member

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    -K&N cold air Intake, Spintech catback exhaust with fender outlet, Total Chaos Front Long Travel with Fox 2.5 10" coilover, Bed cage with Fox 2.5 16" smoothies with dsc, TC shackles, fiberwerx bedsides, frame boxing,
    Id didnt get around to posting yesterday but that was when i finished my bedsides (for the most part). Took me 3 days working by myself pretty frustrating work but im happy with the results still need to figure out the tail lights :annoyed:IMG_1241.jpg
     
    stumbles, YotaBoater and txmxer like this.
  19. May 28, 2016 at 11:30 PM
    txmxer

    txmxer Well-Known Member

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    - Total Chaos 3.5 Long travel kit - Fox 2.5 coilovers w/ resis -Prerunner bumper -Fiberglass front fenders -Fiberwerx tt bedsides - Dmz Sua - fox 2.5x16 triple bypasses
    Looks good! Do the first gen tail lights not mount to the inner sheet metal bed like on 2nd gens?
     
  20. May 28, 2016 at 11:30 PM
    anthony250f

    anthony250f Well-Known Member

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    Price was 600$ I think..
     

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