How To: Replace Upper Ball Joint

First of all, let me say that this is my first write up. It is also the first thing I really have replaced on a vehicle. It is a learning process for me and this post is showing how I did it. I am not responsible for any damages caused by following my procedure. If I happened to miss anything, please let me know! Also, I don't have many pictures because I didn't think I would be doing a write up. I will be replacing the passenger side soon; and updating this with more pictures.

Vehicle: 2002 Toyota Tacoma 4X4, TRD Offroad, SR5 DC

Supplies Needed (What I Used)

• New Upper Ball Joint
• 19mm, 20mm, 21mm sockets
• Pitman Arm Puller (Autozone Loan-a-Tool, Part #27170)
• Ball Joint Separator (Autozone Loan-a-Tool, Part # 27020)
• Torque Wrench
• Pick Tool(s)
• Floor Jack and Jack Stands
• General Tools
• Sanity?

I used this image from Autozone.com as a reference chart.


1. Secure the vehicle. Set hand brake, etc.

2. Loosen lug nuts, jack up each side and place jack stands underneath.


3. I then removed the cotter pin from the castle nut, followed by the castle nut along with the brake hose from the steering knuckle.


4. After that, I had a lot of trouble separating the joint from the upper control arm. People have found success using different methods. I placed a pickle fork between the UBJ and UCA and pried them apart. I used my floor jack to lower and raise to get the best angle and leverage. Note- I used the jack as a support because as soon as they are separated, the Rotor, spindle etc. will fall and may cause damage or cause the CV to come out.

5. After separated came the fun part of removing the UBJ from the Steering Knuckle and Axle Hub Assembly. I removed the wire and rubber boot protecting the UBJ and wiped the remaining grease.

6. The next step would be to remove the C-Clip which prevents the ball joint housing from separation. Now, I made the stupid mistake of not removing it and using the puller to force the ball joint from the housing, as I did not initially see the clip. After the ball joint was removed, I took off the C-Clip using a pick set and a screwdriver to pry it off.


7. The picture above is the ball joint housing without the ball joint because of my mistake. After the C-Clip is removed, use the Pitman puller to push the joint down and out.

Pressing the Ball Joint out

Pressing the housing out


Joint+Housing Removed, cleaned.

8. The joint was then, finally removed. I cleaned up the area for the new joint and used the puller in the opposite direction to press the new BJ through. Make sure that the housing for the joint is even so it slips right in. Depending on the kit purchased, you may have to remove the rubber boot first in order to press in. If so, Replace the boot and seal it with wire/hose clamp supplied. I then added on the new C-Clip/O-Ring.

9. I then used my floor jack to position the assembly at a point where I could slide the new joint through the UCA. After that, I installed the new castle nut, torquing it to 80 ft. lbs. and the new cotter pin.

10. I made sure everything was torqued to spec., put the wheel back on, lowered, etc.

Again, if I missed anything please let me know. Also, if you have any questions feel free to ask away. Here are a few links that assisted me.

http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f80378c40

 

Good work.

 

Thank you.

 

Great write up -- tried it last weekend and wasn't for the life of me able to get the clip on at the end. Any tricks out there for the snap ring? Tried pliers, screwdrivers, snap ring pliers didn't open far enough to be of use...

 

Gt,
I had a difficult time getting the C-Clip off as well. What I did it I bought a set of precision picks. I took a couple of the straight picks and inserted them where the opening of the c-clip was. I jammed them in as much as I could and used a hammer to get them further. I kept using this method to pry it off. Good luck!

 

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How do you install the new wire? I found it very difficult to push over the rubber boot. It seemed like the old one was twisted on and the new one is meant to just slip on and simply be tight, but I can’t find a good way to open up the new wire to slip it on the boot once the boot is in place.

Also is it a horrible idea to push the ball joint out using the spindle of a two jaw press or a c clamp spindle? By pushing directly on the ball? I found the spindle of the ball joint was flopping to one side or the other when I tried to press it out so I just shoved it aside and pressed down directly on the ball.

Edit: to anyone in the future, don't try pressing it out directly on the spherical portion of the ball joint, at least it didn't work on my truck the second time. I think the only reason it worked the first time is because I got it started with a different tool, so it took less force with the method of pushing out via the ball. Read below for more info on better ways.

 

Will you post some pictures of what you mean?

 

I’m wondering how the light silver ring pictured can be installed most easily on the black rubber boot.

Also does the rubber boot need to be filled with grease? The instructions said use the grease if it’s supplied, and the factory service manual refers to grease as well. However, neither of my 555 sankei upper ball joints came with grease, so I installed it with just the grease it came pre-greased with.

 

I would also assume that it is greased. It's been a while since I did this...but if I recall, I removed the rubber boot and checked for grease and that made it easier for me to slide the silver ring over the boot and onto the ball joint.

 

Also, I believe I followed this write-up.

 

Thanks for this writeup! I got both sides done with info from this and Now that I know what I'm doing, I could do both sides in about three hours.


TL;DR of below, Separate ball joint from UCA with pickle fork and medium weight sledge/deadblow. For pressing it out, follow this guide, except I didn't have to cut off the top of the UBJ as some did. For pressing it in, make darn sure it's going in straight. The 4wd adapter kit from oreillys is key. One thing I had to watch out for, is if you follow the instructions verbatim from the press kit, you'll use a giant ridged washer thing with a hole in the center, which is a tiny bit smaller diameter than the UBJ threads. The problem I encountered first try was that when pressing, it actually pressed this tool washer/adapter thing onto the UBJ threads, making it very difficult to remove. Second try I simply used the threaded rod of the tool to press onto the threaded rod of the UBJ (sort of easy, just have to tension it with good balance/alignment). I exploded the UBJ out of the nuckle leaving part still there, so I had to go back and press with the washer/adapter thing to finish the removal (easy).

Note that to remove the UBJ without uninstalling the nuckle, I had to disconnect ABS and brake line brackets from the nuckle. When reinstalling the UBJ into UCA, I had to bend the ball joint to the right angle, then semi-align the UCA and UBJ so that I could use a large pry bar and wedge it between the coil spring and top of UCA to pry the UCA down enough to get the castle nut on the UBJ threads. I ended up getting the "wire" on using a combination of stretching it out (stupid since now it's going to be less tight), pulling it with pliers, and turning it. Frustrating but didn't take too long. I tried what I did last time, pressing on the ball itself with the two jaw puller/press, and it didn't work this time. I'm not sure why, but it was too tight for this technique. The C-clip was frustrating but easy enough to uninstall/uninstall with clirclip pliers, needle nose pliers, and a small flathead screwdriver. Tip for installing the C-clip: put the threaded part of the UBJ through the center of the C-clip. This will allow you to get it close to installed without worrying about expanding it a ton. Then it's just a matter of expanding the ends enough to get one or both sides under the lip, and in my case, continue nudging more and more of it under the lip while applying downward pressure to as much of it as possible (to avoid any part of it from rising up above the lip).

 

Hell yeah. Definitely not a fun task!

 

dude you helped me remove the ubj THX A MILLION made my day

 

I am installing JBA upper control arms and have been totally stuck trying to remove the stock ball joint from the steering knuckle. I have been following the Timmy the Toolman install video and have been using a ball joint press to try to press it out but it won't budge. I have also tried heating it and using a hammer. Any advice would be much appreciated.

 

So you're tightening the ball joint press to a point where you can't anymore? Those things are very strong- crank it down as much as humanly possible if you aren't already. Also heating it then tightening the press if you aren't already

 

You've removed the c-clip, right?

 

What would be the proper chemicals to clean it? Other videos said brake cleaner. I have carb cleaner. Would that be safe to use?

 

What exactly are you trying to clean? Are you trying to clean an existing ball joint currently installed on the vehicle? If so- are you trying to clean the grease and to apply a new boot and grease? You can use whatever cleaning product you like as long as at the end of the day you have the moving parts of the ball joint greased, and the boot packed with grease. Brake or carb cleaner is ok, as both will "evaporate" without a residue.

That's also not really advised unless you know the ball joint is new and you've just torn a boot or something like that. In most other cases, replacing the ball joint is the right call.

 

I’m talking about cleaning the knuckle, before I install the new ball joint. My mechanic friend just got back to me and said it’s safe, and just to be aware of chemicals that can eat through rubber.