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Brake fade but no fluid loss

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by usptwins, May 31, 2016.

  1. May 31, 2016 at 6:57 AM
    #1
    usptwins

    usptwins [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hey guys and girls. So, I have come across a problem with my brakes. I upgraded my brakes on my '96 3.4l Tacoma 4x4. I installed the 1st gen tundra calipers, rotors and pads. When im pressing the pedal, I can sometimes push it all the way to the floor and it barely catches. I have no fluid loss either. Its been about 1 year since I replaced my brakes. I don't overuse my brakes or am not hard on them hardly ever. If anyone has suggestions as to what could be my problem, I would very much appreciate it. Thanks in advance.
     
  2. May 31, 2016 at 7:06 AM
    #2
    Skrain

    Skrain Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so.

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    Done a through bleeding of the system to purge ALL the air out? It can take a lot longer then you might think to get it all out of the lines.
     
  3. May 31, 2016 at 7:08 AM
    #3
    totmacher

    totmacher automotive hypochondriac

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    Cut & broke off stuff. Prolific ziptie and tape usage.
    Air bubble? Try bleeding the lines again.
    Flex lines in good condition? If they're old rubber, could they be expanding under pressure?
     
    robssol likes this.
  4. May 31, 2016 at 7:11 AM
    #4
    mlcc

    mlcc Well-Known Member

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    Chech your rear brakes and see if the adjuster is still in there right
     
  5. May 31, 2016 at 7:17 AM
    #5
    usptwins

    usptwins [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I noticed I had fluid around the axle seal on my left rear. So going to replace that.

    I thought about bleeding the lines again. When we did it the first time they were good up till two days ago. Been fine for almost a year or so.

    Ill check the lines more, but like I just stated above, it just started all of a sudden.

    Anything else possibly?
     
  6. May 31, 2016 at 7:19 AM
    #6
    smmarine

    smmarine Well-Known Member

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    Air in the lines. If you found a leak, there's air. Bleed again. I've read the tundra upgrade also doesn't do so well with the stock lines. SS brake lines work better
     
  7. May 31, 2016 at 7:20 AM
    #7
    mlcc

    mlcc Well-Known Member

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    Could also be a collapsed brake line feel for soft spots in the rubber
     
  8. May 31, 2016 at 7:21 AM
    #8
    Clearwater Bill

    Clearwater Bill Never answer an anonymous letter

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    Master cylinder internal failure, bypassing fluid.

    If you'll try bleeding the brakes again, I'll bet you'll have an almost impossible task using the 2 person pedal method. That will be another indicator of a failed master.

    If you do install a new master, remember to bench bleed it before installing.
     
  9. May 31, 2016 at 7:21 AM
    #9
    usptwins

    usptwins [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ill check for the lines. Won't be till after I get off in bout 7 hours. How much do those SS lines go for? If anyone has a price or place I can find them?
     
  10. May 31, 2016 at 7:23 AM
    #10
    usptwins

    usptwins [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yea, my dad thinks its prob the master but we couldn't get into it too much last night cause of the fading light. Thanks guy, ill post later today or tomorrow when we look at those few things tomorrow.
     
  11. May 31, 2016 at 7:24 AM
    #11
    smmarine

    smmarine Well-Known Member

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    Like 40 bucks maybe. Wheelers off-road has a set
     
  12. May 31, 2016 at 7:26 AM
    #12
    usptwins

    usptwins [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, guys. Oh, and I didn't mention this. I have 396k on the truck and im pretty sure the master has never been replaced..... nor have many other parts.
     
  13. May 31, 2016 at 10:30 AM
    #13
    ThunderOne

    ThunderOne Well-Known Member

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    I have been using the stock rubber lines with my Tundra brakes with no problems. I have noticed that excessive pedal play can be attributed to poorly adjusted rear brakes. There is a star wheel on the rear of the drum that you can adjust, but it's easier to remove the drum and check it that way. The drum should have a slight grinding or "catch" while spinning, in other words the drums should not spin totally freely, in order to be adjusted properly.

    Since you have that many miles it would be worth it to check out the master, but adjusting the drums is free so try that first.
     
    usptwins[OP] likes this.
  14. May 31, 2016 at 4:30 PM
    #14
    nzbrock

    nzbrock Well-Known Member

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    When you put on the tundra calipers, did you lose a lot of fluid out of the lines in the process? When I put on my tundra brakes I tried to keep the fluid loss to a minimum but I'm pretty sure it dropped too low in the master cylinder. After a few weeks of driving I was experiencing the same pedal to the floor that you are. It got worse and worse and eventually every time I stopped it dropped to the floor. My theory is the fluid level dropping allowed some crud to get in to the master and mess up the seals. I put in a new master cylinder (bench bled it first), and I was good to go.
     
  15. May 31, 2016 at 4:33 PM
    #15
    ThunderOne

    ThunderOne Well-Known Member

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    I made sure not to push the pedal all the way in when bleeding, apparently there is a delicate o-ring in the cylinder that can get messed up if you push too far down on the pedal. When I did my tundra brakes I bled all of the lines, even the back, since it was due for it anyways. Need to get around to doing the clutch cylinder now.

    Yes, when swapping calipers and the lines are open (meaning you're slowly losing fluid while you do the job), you really need to keep an eye on the reservoir and make sure it doesn't get low. Keep topping it off. If you don't, you could run into the problems you described, and get more unecessary air in the lines, and at the beginning of the whole line too, meaning you'll have to bleed a shit load of fluid out just to get the air out that you introduced into the system through the reservoir.
     
  16. Jun 1, 2016 at 7:39 AM
    #16
    usptwins

    usptwins [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Well, come to find out, my left rear drum had lots of fluid in it. I think it was from my bad axel seal. Going to replace that and go from there. But I don't think that's what messed up my pedal... I don't know. And when I bled my lines I don't think I lost too much or let air in. Ill try to re-bleed them just for the hell of it. I appreciate all the suggestions.
     
  17. Jun 1, 2016 at 11:30 AM
    #17
    smmarine

    smmarine Well-Known Member

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    Sure it's not a leaking rear brake cylinder?
     
    usptwins[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  18. Jun 1, 2016 at 11:32 AM
    #18
    ThunderOne

    ThunderOne Well-Known Member

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    Should be able to tell from the smell. Gear fluid doesn't really smell like brake fluid.
     
  19. Jun 1, 2016 at 11:33 AM
    #19
    smmarine

    smmarine Well-Known Member

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    No, it smells like ass lol
     
  20. Jun 3, 2016 at 7:40 PM
    #20
    usptwins

    usptwins [OP] Well-Known Member

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    We changed out my driver rear axel seal and master cylinder. Should be good now.
     

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