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Help with my new-to-me Taco

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Scottlippy4, May 25, 2016.

  1. May 26, 2016 at 10:27 AM
    #21
    Skrain

    Skrain Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so.

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    Seriously, get it to a shop to get your brakes checked ASAP!!
     
  2. May 27, 2016 at 10:01 AM
    #22
    Scottlippy4

    Scottlippy4 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Woodstock, Ga
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    Gonna replace brakes on all four corners. Might be a few days but I will check back when completed. Thanks
     
    Skrain likes this.
  3. May 27, 2016 at 10:05 AM
    #23
    Bman4X5

    Bman4X5 There is no substitute for square inches.

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    Upland CA
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    Bilstein, Dakar/Icon, Prinsu, CBI, Pelfreybilt, Tepui
    Rattle: if you have oversize tires, they may be hitting something at full lock
     
  4. May 27, 2016 at 10:22 AM
    #24
    Scottlippy4

    Scottlippy4 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Stock tires
     
  5. May 27, 2016 at 10:26 AM
    #25
    eon_blue

    eon_blue If I would, could you

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    Are the wheels stock or aftermarket? I have stock size tires but the wheels are aftermarket and cause my tires to rub on the pinch weld at full turn (I think the spacing is a bit off or something). Anyway I wouldn't call it a rattle, it's definitely a tire rubbing sound.

    Advice to anyone who might have this issue: do NOT just cut away the plastic lining that they are rubbing on without cutting/bending back the pinch weld as well, otherwise the tire rubs on the metal directly instead of the plastic and it sounds like death. Ask me how I know lol
     
  6. May 27, 2016 at 10:30 AM
    #26
    Scottlippy4

    Scottlippy4 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Stock Wheels, definitely no rub.
     
  7. May 27, 2016 at 12:07 PM
    #27
    gainman

    gainman Semper Fi

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    Dude just check your brakes. That is a pretty damn important part of your vehicle and if they are screeching and grinding it means there are no brakes left. The grinding is the metal of the brake pad grinding against the metal of the rotor. This should be priority 1
     
    Skrain likes this.
  8. May 27, 2016 at 12:31 PM
    #28
    Nighthawk

    Nighthawk 'streme spoats

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    Casper Wyoming
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    Bilstein 5100's w/ Eibach coil overs in front (set at 3" of lift). Front diff drop kit. Extended Bilstein 5100's in the rear. Deaver 2" AAL in rear w/ axle shims. 285 x 75 r 16 Goodyear Duratracks. Wheelers steelies type B, AFE cold air intake. Sway bar delete. All Pro Apex front bumper (rattle canned Rustoleum primer + flat black). Plasti-dipped emblems. Mud flaps removed.
    I mean, you don't really NEED brakes... You can Flintstones that shit and save a few bucks...
     
  9. May 27, 2016 at 12:49 PM
    #29
    Scottlippy4

    Scottlippy4 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I am pretty sure there is some pad left, definitely not grinding like I've heard on other vehicles. Need new brakes anyway. Hopefully it can wait until
    Early next week when I have some time
    Off.
     
  10. Jun 2, 2016 at 6:52 PM
    #30
    Scottlippy4

    Scottlippy4 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Changed brakes and rotors, pads had life left. Rotors looked okay. Squeak is gone. Truck still vibrates really bad from around a fast stop more then 30-40mph. Also between 60-70 mph it has harsh vibrations as well. Below 60 or over 70 there's no vibrations. What do I do now?
     
  11. Jun 3, 2016 at 6:00 AM
    #31
    CroResident

    CroResident Well-Known Member

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    Opelousas, Louisiana
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    6" Zone lift 35x12.50 Super Swampers
    are the tires that are currently on this truck old? maybe they could be out of balance? hard to tell with the information you have given. it sounds like it would do you some good to have a mechanic go over the entire truck and make you a list of what items may/may not need attention further down the line. then you can take that list of items and break it down one by one and research them individually and learn a thing or two in the process. sounds like you just need to do a little trial and error. just my two cents.
     
  12. Jun 3, 2016 at 7:25 AM
    #32
    Scottlippy4

    Scottlippy4 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    This is my first truck, but I'm not a dunce. The tires are pretty new. I think it's something with the drum brakes. I'm gonna try and take a look today.
     
  13. Jun 3, 2016 at 7:26 AM
    #33
    Scottlippy4

    Scottlippy4 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    At least maybe the tires need balancing for the vibration at 60-70mph. Although I don't think that would cause braking to be insane if your going more then 30mph.
     
  14. Jun 3, 2016 at 7:40 AM
    #34
    Pigpen

    Pigpen My truck is never clean

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    Access cab with child seat in the back, yellow wire mod, diff breather relocated to tail light, engine block heater, Leer topper with Yakima tracks and rack, Yakima rack on cab, Ride Rite air bags with Daystar cradles, CBI hidden front hitch, wired for winch front and rear Warn quick connect, Warn x8000i on external carrier, sway bar delete, trailer plug relocated to under bumper, Pelfreybilt IFS and Mid skids, BAMF Tcase skid, ECGS front diff bushing, ARB CKMA12 compressor, 255/85/16 Backcountry MT 3 load E tires on stock steel rims, Toyo M55 tires (same size) on another set of stock steelies, Up2NoGood heated mirror kit, Husky X-act Contour front floor liners, Northstar AGM 24F battery under the hood, Northstar 27F in the cab, Redarc 25 amp DC to DC charger, Pelfreybilt bolt on sliders with kickout and top plates, TRD Pro headlights, Depo smoked tail lights, Energy suspension body mount bushing kit, OME Dakar leaf packs with AAL, OME rear shocks, OME 90021 front shocks with 885 coils, SPC LR UCAs, Up2NoGood 2wd low range mod, 4 Wheel Campers Grandby slide in camper, 4xinnovations high clearance rear bumper, Uniclutch 800 lb/ft clutch
    There's a good chance that you have at least one bad universal joint in the drive line which would cause your vibrations. Buying an older vehicle means you'll need to put money into it. It sounds like you're willing to spend a little money, that's good. On any fix that you can't do yourself, try to get the person doing it to at least let you watch - or help if it's a friend. Enjoy the truck ownership experience for all it's worth!!
     
  15. Jun 3, 2016 at 8:04 AM
    #35
    Scottlippy4

    Scottlippy4 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Best info I've got thus far. Thanks!
     
    Pigpen[QUOTED] likes this.
  16. Jun 3, 2016 at 8:30 AM
    #36
    Nighthawk

    Nighthawk 'streme spoats

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    Have you jacked up the truck and wiggled the wheels to see if they have any play? It could be a bad hub bearing. It could also be a warped rotor, where do you feel the vibration? in the steering wheel or in the seat?

    EDIT: Oops, missed your comment on the rotor replacement above
     
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2016
  17. Jun 3, 2016 at 9:38 AM
    #37
    gainman

    gainman Semper Fi

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    I was gonna go with wheel bearings. Maybe a weight fell of and tires need balance?
     
  18. Jun 3, 2016 at 11:37 AM
    #38
    Scottlippy4

    Scottlippy4 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Guys. I feel like this is never gonna have a fix. Got my drums cut and thought that would solve the problem. Nope! Still shakes super bad in seat/steering wheel/ pretty much whole cab. Now there's a rattle sound on the passenger side! Heat marks on the drivers side rotor as well. Checking too see what's loose on the right....
     
  19. Jun 3, 2016 at 11:40 AM
    #39
    Steves104x4

    Steves104x4 Well-Known Member

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    BUCKLE UP! It makes it harder for Aliens to pull you out of your Truck.
    and the driveshaft u-joints are good?
     
  20. Jun 3, 2016 at 2:55 PM
    #40
    Scottlippy4

    Scottlippy4 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    No idea, I gave up and dropped it off at the shop. Been working on it all day in 90 degree sunlight and said that's enough. Going out of town till the 14th so I'll post back when the mechanic gets back.
     

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