How to: Front shock/spring removal

Did you find these pictures?

 

i didnt HOWEVER They have alot of youtube videos on the removal same process.

check out my Thread

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/5100s-with-ome-885s-and-rear-aal-pics.408560/#post-11487675

 

Thanks! I am going to tackle a full ome install this weekend if the kits arrives on Friday as scheduled! How long did the install take you?

 

Are your coilovers already assembled?

 

took around 3-4 hours

 

Thanks for the info! I had my front assembled hopefully that will make it fast and easier.

 

Anybody know the bolt size for the top and bottom shock bolts? I'm putting on used Icon 2.5s and want new hardware.

 

14 and 17mm IIRC. it might be a 19mm.

 

Would this be the bolt size or the wrench used on the bolt head? Makes a difference if he orders a bolt.

 

Damn , I must have been tired last night and didn't fully read his question. You're right. I was thinking socket size.

 

infound the top sizes on the icon parts sheet but can't find the bottom because everywhere says to reuse the bolt...

 

They are 9mm x 25mm and 14mm x 80mm.

At least that's what mine are.

The bottom OEM ones have about 1/2" of a chamfer (not really sure what the technical term is) so you could probably get away with a 70mm

 

Awesome! Thanks

 

So would you follow this same procedure if you were removing the coilovers on an already lifted truck? For example a Toytec Boss or King coilover? Thanks!

 

Yes

 

this thread was HUGELY helpful!!! most of the threads on the front strut replacement i read described loosening the LCA bolts and having to have an alignment done afterwards... the procedures in this thread were quicker, easier and didnt require another alignment since nothing removed was adjustable. thanks guys!

 

NEVERMIND, I found the pics, almost seems too simple.

Are the instructions with pics posted again somewhere in this thread, will be replacing my front shocks and coils soon and it would be awesome if I could avoid and alignment.

 

here are some pics of my install...
Untitled by boostdcoupe, on Flickr

i got the SenSen "el cheapo" shock and spring assemblies because i didtn have access to a compressor and wanted to keep this as simple as possible. i kept the original stuff, so if i decide i dont like the SenSen's i will get the Bilsteins everyone else gets, build mine and return the SenSen's.
side to side comparison...
Untitled by boostdcoupe, on Flickr

old out...
Untitled by boostdcoupe, on Flickr

in with the new...
Untitled by boostdcoupe, on Flickr

 

For those who live in areas where things rust, I learned some things that might be helpful. I just put in 6112's and rear leafs and B110's. Both rear lower shock bolts were seized, one front lower shock bolt, and one rear shackle bolt. And I only have 75k on the truck. The bolts seize to the to the bushing sleeve. I was spraying regularly with WD40 rust penetrate and it didn't matter. I was unable to pound any out, so I cut them.

I cut the rear shackle bolt with a sawzall with a metal blade. Not too bad. I cut the rear shock bolts with a 4.5" thin metal cutting disk mounted in my mini grinder. These disks don't last too long, so bring several.

I chose to loosen the LCA to remove the spring because I needed an alignment anyway, and to get the alignment, I had to make sure the LCA bushings weren't sized. It turns out that if your lower shock bolt is seized, lowering the LCA makes it much easier to cut the bolt.

When I first realized the bolt was seized, I tried tapping it out with a hammer. When that didn't work, I used a bigger hammer. That was a mistake. As you can see, the bolt was so thoroughly seized to the sleeve that the sleeve came out of the shock and bent the backside of the shock mount. I was so happy to be hitting something with a big hammer that I didn't notice until it was bent. Later I took the LCA off and used the big hammer to bend the mount flat again.

A better solution is to drop the LCA with the shock still attached. That creates some space and I could cut the bolt with my cutting wheel.

Also, you can see in the picture that I didn't remove the sway bar link from the spindle. It turns out that you don't have to remove them, and that saves a few minutes. I removed the sway bar mounting brackets, and then slid the bar forward a couple of inches, and then I used a bungee to keep it forward. That got the links and bar ends out of the way.

For reference, you might need these bolts:
Rear spring bolts - 14mm x 120mm. I used grease-able 9/16 x 4.5" bolts, and cut them down a bit.
Rear shock lower bolt - 12mm x 60mm. 7/16 x 2.5" or 3" will work.
Front lower shock bolt - 14mm x 80mm.

 

Wow dude, you had a fun time with that one!! Kudos to you, and also for giving all these instructions for anyone else that has this problem in the future.