SMKYTXN's Build

yeah I need to regear but that and lockers is on hold, I wanna do the rear suspension and armor first then do the gears and lockers. rear in 2017 and gears lockers 2018 im hoping

 

why the 4:10s and used? how much cheaper was that?

 

4.10's work pretty well for up to a 35" tire. If I lived in hillier country I would have opted for 4.56's though. Just keep searching for deals.

 

Im mostly flat in Phoenix until i try to go out of town. I spend a fair amount of time in 3rd and 4th while climbing and the rpms get up to 4k with the 34s.

 

oh nice, so were they off an old first gen?

 

The 4.10's came in the 4cyl 2nd gen tacos. Find someone that's upgraded and grab their gears.

 

oh what?! 4cyl have those? I bet a few junk yards around here have some, im currently reading through your flat bed build. the thing is amazing. My favorite pic is you making it semi legal haha

 

If you do happen to find a 4cyl 2nd gen in the salvage yard be sure to pull the front clamshell and rear third. When you put your lockers in you can drop off your new spare diffs instead of having to strip your truck down. Then do the swap once everythings done.

 

So. Now that moab is done. How was it? How does it compare to the parks and trails in Texas?

 

Moab is entirely different from our trails, it's apples to oranges really. The typical trail is several miles long, and most of the ones I ran were six to eight miles. I reminded myself that I'm not a fan of heights while I was there. It wasn't just a matter of flopping, it was a matter of rolling down or off the cliff.

We ran Kane Creek and when we got to the bottom of the main obstacle, Hamburger Hill, Dylan let us know that a sidexside had gone off the cliff and the driver had died the day before. Sure enough, the mangled rig was still at the bottom of the ravine. Who knows what lead up to that, but it sure made me cautious as I made the climb.

It's a whole other world out there. Grip for days on every rock and obstacles to challenge any rig. The amount and variation of trails out there is staggering. I'm looking forward to going back and trying out different trails. Too bad it's 1300 miles away.

 

read through this

 

build of the year?!

 

@SDkoncepts808

 

now you need this trailer and boom you're set!

 

I'll have to hack off my ARB first though.

 

lol true

 

A few more pictures, courtesy of @bluewaters182 !













Thanks Greg!

 

EDIT: Don't do this the easy way. Go ahead and split the case so you don't lose the synchro keys in the case.

FJ Cruiser twin stick modification, THE EASY WAY!

First off, I take no responsibility for you screwing up your transfer case, so don't do what I did!

If you've looked into swapping an FJ case into your rig you've also considered twin sticking it. The holdup I had with the whole thing was having to rip the entire case apart. Here's Wyatt's writeup on ripping the whole case apart if you're interested.

So here's what I did.

First off, once you remove the factory shifter you can clearly see the two shift forks through the opening.



The end goal is to get rid of the small 1/8" square nub that sticks into the passenger side shift fork. The passenger side is the 2w/4w shifter and the driver side is hi/neutral/low.

Find yourself a nice rag and wet it with something non-flammable, but sticky stuff. You don't want to catch anything on fire. I took said rag and stuffed it down below the shift forks as well as I could. Then with a buddy manning the shop vac I cut the nub off with a dremel and cutoff wheel.


Before:


After:


Keep the shop vac going while you're cutting. I also had a magnet close by to catch the nub when it was cut all the way through.

Ok, so we're done, right? Nope! We're close, but not quite there. There are two detent balls for the shift rails and a "pill" BETWEEN the shift rails. The detent balls and springs need to come out for the time being. The "pill" locks the two shift rails together. You can cut the nub off, but without removing the "pill" you won't have twin the twin stick ability.

The detent ball and spring that you'll find behind the hex bolt are shown below. There's one set on each side.



So on to the part where you actually get the rails to work independently. Take all of the bolts out that hold the two pieces of the case together. You're going to leave the input shafts in place for this. Just take the bolts out around the perimeter of the case and pry the case apart about 3/4". At that point you can tip the case on it's side, push the lower shift rail forward, and let the "pill" fall out of the case. It will take a little finagling, but you'll get it.



Now seal up your case with your favorite gasket maker and bolt everything back together. The springs and detent balls go back in the case, don't forget that step. That's it, you're done!