'14 Access 2TR P219A Code URD Supercharger Installed

Anyone see a P219A code thrown from a supercharged 2TR? I've only had the SC in for a few days (like since last Saturday) and really haven't pushed it, but it's consistently giving the CEL. I clear it and within about 30 miles of mild city/country road driving it comes back on. The truck only has 35k. Its also got the LCE header and MagnaFlow cat-back.

Most web searches come back with burnt exhaust valves, but the code is supposedly "Bank 1 Air / Fuel Imbalance".

Could the difference in fuel map or initial learning curve of the ECU cause a burnt valve? Maybe the force feeding of air isn't flowing equally / balanced between the cylinders? Maybe the SC caused an existing valve issue to show up where before it didn't cross any thresholds?

If it is a valve, worst case is I strip off the supercharger and see if it can get it covered under warranty (but only have about 900 miles left!). That would suck, but probably less work than having the head reworked.

Hoping it's part of the ECU learning curve or the piggy-back ECU needs tweaked since I am still running the stock CAT. *sigh*

 

Have you contacted Gadget at URD? He usually responds rapidly.....

 

i work at toyota and usually when you get that code it ends up needing valves as they are burnt

 

Called Gadget this morning. Said the '14's and 15's have issues with the AFR Adjust module. Had me clip the blue wire from the AFR module to the ECU to prevent the error code being thrown. Hoping this one's put to rest.

On another note - the extra torque seems to be messing up 1st to 2nd gear shifting (only the 4 speed auto). Slams into seconds with only moderate power applied (but still more than it could do stock). Best bet seems to send the valve body to IPT in NJ for a shift kit to get installed. Hoping the cost of the kit is cheaper than an ELF on the tranny!

 

I am considering the URD KIT for my 2010 2.7l can you tell me about the install? What about the tuning after the install? I'm concerned about it leaning out under boost and burning valves and or pistons. I have a five speed so the tranny won't be an issue.
I am helping my Son install the HELLION twin turbo kit on his 2013 Camaro SS, it's almost done. He has to have it tuned on a DYNO so they can plug in a computer and adjust all parameters with the car screaming under full boost. Sorry I tend to ramble. any info would be very much appreciated.
Thanks, Keith (Greatfuldead

 

Be sure that you don't confuse cause with effect.
Air fuel imbalance is the *cause* of burnt valves, not the effect. The check engine light comes on to tell you "hey watch out, if you don't fix this soon, you are GOING to burn your valves".

Now having said that, and briefly looking at the kit, I can tell you that the story you got about the AFR compensator being the trigger is *not unreasonable*. The extra fuel injector that the system adds means that the OEM ECU can't understand the *actual* AFR as it could with a factory/stock setup. Basically, the system looks at the air flow measurements and the fuel injector timing in order to calculate the air/fuel ratio. When you add an extra fuel injector, the oem ecu doesn't know about it, and can't compensate for it.

My question, however, is now that you've clipped the wire, how is the ECU coming up with a valid AFR? Technically speaking, shouldn't it now be back to measuring the increased air volume along with the normal fuel injector timing? I.e., I would expect that now it should be pouring fuel in via the factory injectors at a rate that matches the increased air volume, and along with that, the kit is pouring in extra fuel via the 5th injector, at least under certain circumstances. To me, that suggests that it could be running excessively rich.

And I'm not saying that my understanding of the system is complete or correct. I'm just asking the questions that come to my mind given the information that I see.

 

Not being well versed in ECU tuning, I can't say with any authority what and or how the engine management systems are being monitored. The AFR module was marked as "optional" in the instructions, so I would imagine that it can still safely use the OEM controls for this function. I wanted this kit so it was turn-key and I could skip over that learning curve.

Otherwise, in regards to the install and tuning - URD pre-loads a map based on a 2.7 with headers, bypassed cat, and high flow exhaust. I'm still running the cat, so I know I'm not optimal, but overall pretty darn close. I have a boost and AFR gauges on my steering column that I keep an eye on, and between them and the MAP-ECU guardian feature (will cut power if conditions are met such - as too lean) all seems to be working well. Under heavy load or more than 6 psi boost, my AFR goes from 14.5 to 13.

At some point I'll get it to a tuner and have it dialed in, but right now I'm chasing either a bad connection or other issue that's causing a MAF sensor issue (P0102) and it not to start. Has only happened twice but it's a nuisance that I need to get rid of. Gadget is helping narrow down what it could be.

Performance? Seat of the pants improvement is amazing. Gas mileage stinks now and have to run at least 91 octane, but at least I have the option not to floor it everwhere I go.

 

Do you have a video (cell phone/gopro etc) of the transmission 1st to 2nd shift? Gadget told me there would be no problems with the 4sp auto. Is it a hard/sharp shift, or actually "banging" into 2nd gear?

Any hiccups during the install or things you would have done differently knowing what you do now? Thanks.

 

It acts like it's slipping excessively (engine revs higher for a second or two) then drops into 2nd gear really hard if I'm on the gas at all. I'll catch a video next time I'm driving it. I've got a few more things to try before I send out the valve body for a shift kit.

There were quite a few challenges, but none were so insurmountable that I wouldn't do it again. The intake tube to the battery is super tight, intercooler installation was a little tricky (had to put spacers on the brackets to clear the A/C condenser, clearance the radiator brackets, and finagle the hood latch, horn, and temp sensor with new mounting locations/methods), and the idler pulley may need to be adjusted to center it on the belt.

 

Can't get a good video - there's so much background noise from my exhaust that the tranny shifting is hard to make out.

Still chasing the MAF issue. Reverted the electrical back to stock and it's still throwing codes P0102/P0103/P0113. The dealer tried putting in a new sensor and no luck (was still under warranty and they agreed to try - no cost to me). At this point I must have nicked a wire or pulled a connector when installing the piggy-back ECU or when I rerouted the MAF connector. Tried the usual stuff for those codes and no luck. Next is to chase every wire off that connector and ohm it out. Yeehaw.
Had to drive my Yaris to pick up my elk from the butcher

Hoping once the MAF thing is figured out the tranny shifting issue will be resolved... we'll see.

 

Figured I'd close this out. The MAF issue was from a bad software flash in the MAP-ECU. Once it was corrected, the MAF glitch and most of the shifting issues also went away. It still shifts too hard at times from 1st to 2nd, but the difference is like 80% better for the rest of the gears. I'm sending the valve body to IPT to get a shift kit installed - something I was going to do anyway. Getting an Optima batter (rounded corners) to clear the intake tube. Overall glad that URD (Gadget) was so willing to help through the process and I'll probably get it into a tuner to dial it in for my specific recipe - after deer archery season!

 

Hey sorry for the old thread dig up but i got some legit questions... When he had you clip the afr adjust module from the ecu harness, did you leave the oem o2 sensor wiring intact? Also, how is it enriching? I mean does it actually get fatter as you mash into the pedal further during low rpm, mid load? I have the same exact code, P219A and i have data logs and i can see why its happening... the problem is thats sort of the way it is i think. It creates a weird wave pattern in comparison to what the ECU was expecting. I also clipped the blue wire between the ecu harness and afr adjust module and turned it off in the IO section. I did mess with it in the parking lot and i noticed that as i would add the fuel in, the ecu would see the o2 sensor is reading really fat and it pulls it back out via stft... can any one else confirm this behavior with the same build with or without the supercharger? I can attach logs from mapcal as well as another csv datalog from an OBD datalogger to show you what i mean...

 

Here are the differences the ECU sees with AFR adjust and without...



^^^^^With AFR Adjust



^^^^^Without AFR Adjust

 

Nobody got anything for that?

 

I'm getting P219A as well. And P103

 

Double check that all ports on the supercharger are capped! And all vacuum lines are secure/not leaking. I was getting a P0171 "System Too Lean Bank 1" code on my supercharged engine (3.4l V6), and a port on the back that was almost impossible to see had come uncapped causing a vacuum leak and throwing the code. It's actually somewhat common, I've read a few threads on these forums from guys that got the same code I did. I haven't seen your code in particular but it's possible that it could be related.

 

Thanks Ryan. I will look into it.

 

No problem, hope that turns out to be it because it's a pretty easy fix. It actually took me two Toyota dealerships (one of which sent me on my way basically telling me I was SOL and I should take off the supercharger) and the second one 2 days to figure it out, they had to call in a "Master Technician" whatever that means. He had apparently seen it before and diagnosed it right away, thankfully.

 

@eo

Where can I find this leak or how?

 

I'm not familiar with the 4.0 supercharger but on the back of the 3.4l one there is an EGR valve port that gets used on certain trucks, but not on others...mine was supposed to be capped but it had either fallen off or the previous owner never put it on. Either way, it was hard to see because it was on the back and well hidden. Not sure how to do it other than visually inspecting it, maybe pull up a diagram or the supercharger (I'm sure the installation instructions have it) and see where all the ports are, then check them visually? Also I'd check the hoses to make sure they're properly attached and not leaking, I've heard people say if you take a bit of water with a tiny amount of soap in it and rub it on a hose you can see if it's leaking or not by any bubbles that might appear, but someone else will have to verify if that's the best method as I've never tried it.