Bilstein 6112

I have no problem torquing them with the truck sitting normal. I do remove the front skid plate for access to the front bolts. Hope your knee is feeling better.

 

Ok good to know. Thanks

 

Hey folks I'm just wondering what the difference is between the 6112s and the 5100s. I have the 5100 based toytec 3inch lift with toytec coil springs and a 2inch aal

 

These are larger in diameter (2.3) I think. They also come with their own springs and are valved to work with those springs specifically. Doesn't mean you couldn't use another spring, but that's why they come as a pair.

I've often wondered what they would be like paired with the Baja or TRD pro springs. The lowest setting is .6" of lift so I guess it would sit up 1/2" higher than those models.

 

An upgrade to 6112/5160's at the 1.08 setting with a driver 1/4" spacer resulted in a 1" height increase (34.75" to 35.75") and a much improved ride (more dampening, firmer more capable feel without additional roughness). The rear was leveled out with firestone airbags to retain 1/2" of rake. (265/75/16)

 

Finally, happy to say I can give a post-installation report!

For the most part, the install went exactly as expected. I followed the numerous videos and tips posted throughout this site and used the "no spring compressor" method and let the tuck and lower control arm do the work for me. I didn't have any issues with disassembly, and didn't have any issues with re-compressing the new coilover with the weight of the vehicle. The total install time was around 5-6 hours, but this was my first time and I went slow and meticulous. On re-assembly every single bolt was re-torqued to spec, then marked so that I can keep track if any bolt tries to back out. Can I also take time to say F^#K that damn swaybar!!! That thing gave me so much trouble trying to re-bolt it to the frame that I almost left the booger off. Also in reference to the cam bolts, 2 of the 4 required slight re-adjustment, but I did re-torque them at full droop, not sitting on the ground. Truck has no issues with pull or incorrect tracking right now.

So with all of that said, I assembled the 6112's on the #3 (middle) notch hoping for 2" of lift. When everything was said and done, the first time the truck was lowered to tires on the ground I had an insane 4" of lift in the front. One loop through the yard settled it down to 3" of lift. I did a +2 mile loop around the block and it's dropped down to about 2.5" of lift right now, very similar to @HB Taco .

Stock Measurements: 20" Hub to Fender / 35" Ground to Fender
Post Measurements: 22.5" Hub to Fender / 37.5" Ground to Fender (#3 setting with 3/8" driver side spacer)
Rear Measurements: 21.5" Hub to Fender / 36.5" Ground to Fender

The following photos are right before and immediately after installation. I am nose high, but knew I would be until I take care of the rear suspension. If the suspension settles down into the 1.75" to 2" range as so many other guys have reported, it'll look even better in a couple days.

BEFORE:



AFTER: Measured at approx. 2.5" of lift. Expect this to settle within the next few days.







As for the ride... LOVE it. I've only put about 4 miles on it to give it a test drive, but the ride seems to be as smooth as silk. I'm coming from stock TRD-OR suspension that had 12,000 miles on it. So far my wife nor I don't notice any uncomfortable stiffness, everything is an improvement across the board. Big bumps are MUCH smoother, small bumps are felt a little less in the seat. My only real performance test was hitting a really rough railroad crossing near the house. In every vehicle I've driven, if you crossed it over about 10MPH it'd rattle your teeth out. With the 6112's I was able to cross the tracks at 35MPH and didn't even feel them. Smooth as butter. It surprised the hell out of my wife and I.

I'll report back in a couple of days when I'm able to hit the apartment complex's speed bumps a few times and see how it really compares to the old suspension. But so far I'm very happy and it is a noticeable improvement over the stock TRD-OR suspension.

 

Good Job. A lot of peeps are running without the sway bar without any issues. I wasn't too sure about it but after having it like that for awhile and stiffer springs up front I love it. Super nice off road and much easier to work on. In a few days I'll loosen and retorque the cam bolts and see if that makes a difference. You need to get it aligned for sure.

 

Plan to get it aligned tomorrow.

I need to ask for 0 camber, 0 toe, and as much caster as they can muster out of the UCA's correct?

 

Glad to hear you all like them. I got a set from chas at tap when they first came out, different screen name then.

I hope people will finally give these a try after your reviews. They handle large bumps and i cant find any downside. I also have removed my sway bar and they are even better. The spring is stiff enough for me to feel safe with it off.

Anyone who has bought OME shocks, or 5100/88x since these have been out i lol for you wasting your money. The performance of the 6112 surpasses anything in the price range.

 

That's what I've read and mine is close to those numbers. Here's one thread on the topic.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/alignment-numbers.408500/

 

@iK0NiK , what are you running in the rear in those pictures? I've been really thinking about these 6112s (on the 5th setting) and was thinking of pairing them with All-Pro leaves in the rear... can't decide on the standard (3") or HD (4" unloaded, 3" while loaded) leaf pack... really want something that compliments the front 6112 spring rate nicely and gives it appropriate lift when loaded.

 

Last alignment which was about the same lift (2.3") I got 1.9 caster (stock UCA's). I wouldn't want much less caster than that. It still tracks good and straight and is in spec. I don't want more lift than that for that and other reasons. Later if you upgrade the UCA's you could go a little more.

 

The back is bone stock 4-Leaf pack with the yellow Bilstein TRD Off Road struts. I can already tell the dampening of the 6112's doesn't match what's going on in the rear. The front suspension is super plush like riding on a pillow whereas the rear is bouncy. I'm not sure if that's due to the valving of the stock struts or due to the rear of the truck being so light. I can already tell it won't be long before I get to work on my rear suspension. My plan was 3-Leaf AAL + 5100's, but after feeling how smooth and plush the dampening is on the 6112's, I may end up biting the bullet and going 5160's on the rear as recommended by Bilstein.

 

Alignment results are in:

 

I've been reading Crash and burn's Baja suspension thread and following this and other 6112 threads for a few weeks. I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a 6112 setup for my 13 DCLB. Plan is to have Headstrong build them with the 5160 rear option. For the C/O, I'm thinking 1/2" spacer on the drivers sider (1" lift), 1/4" spacer on the passenger side (1/2" lift) and then set the 6112s on the second notch from the bottom. This "should" give me less preload on the spring while still getting about 1.5-1.75" of lift with lots of room to go to 2" or 2.5" with slightly less preload.

Am I thinking soundly or just overthinking it? I'm used to a set of adjustable Toytec Ultimates where I could just crank away. Not so with this new setup.

Thoughts?

 

That's excellent. What shop did you use?

 

Its interesting, I'm learning as I go with this. My 1/4 inch drivers side spacer went on top of the assembled coil and shock assembly. I'm not sure if that affects the preload of the spring in any way.

 

I would avoid using spacers for height until you top out the adjustments available on the 6112's. Go ahead and set them on #3 and don't deal with an extra spacer if you can help it. Also I'm not sure if a 1/2" spacer would fit on top of a factory top hat without extended bolts. All of your high-performance aftermarket coil overs use preload to adjust ride height (Icon, Fox, King, etc.). Cranking down on threads is the same as going up notches with Bilsteins. I doubt you'd notice much if any ride quality difference, plus you'll be shorting yourself on travel if you use spacers.

A local garage called PTAP. They're pretty much top-teir service with some really talented guys working in their garage. http://www.ptaponline.com/services/

 

So I can confirm this makes a difference. I loosened the cam bolts and backed down the driveway and bounced it onto the street a couple of times then pulled back into the garage. I adjusted the cams (only one moved slightly) then torqued the bolts. It rides noticeably better, less rebound, more cushy, and I swear it dropped a tad 1/8" or so? It makes sense because once torqued any movement of the LCA up or down is under resistance from the bushings which is why they have to be loosened to swing down. Wish I would've know this earlier, I've been doing it wrong for a long time, and explaines why I loved the ride after my last alignment.

I loosened them as it sits but there wasn't much room to work the torque wrench as I suspected (mines 19.5" long ) So I pulled it up on 4x6's and it was much easier to torque them down after.

Not a bad idea, if I want to raise it a little later I may go that route since I already have a 1/2 spacer and my new top hats already have the longer studs (you would need that). I love the way these shocks feel on the 3rd setting. The only difference is you would have slightly less up travel but slightly more down travel - 1/2" either way. Same overall. I'm at 2" lift now taken from the passenger side - no spacer there. One week into these. Loving the ride! The 5100's out back seem to match up well. I'm sure 5160's would be better but I'm good for now