HOW TO: 400W Anytime Mod 3rd Gen

I've been dying to do this mod, but after ripping out my center console and looking at the 2nd gen how to I realized they're different. So I spent all weekend cutting through a bunch of different wires before getting a wiring diagram from a friend at toyota (even then it was still a pain to figure out)

Disclosure: I am by no means an electrician or a mechanic. This was all figured out by two days worth of trial and error. I don't know if this is the exact method that SHOULD be done, all I know is that it works.
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Manual Transmission write up at the bottom.​

I am gonna make this as easy as possible. I didn't get the best pictures because I wasn't planning on making a thread on this, but I'll try to explain the best I can.

First remove your shift knob and trim in FRONT of the center console, no need to remove the center console to get to the inverter. You will be working with these wires.


Now cut the purple (speed sensor) one right in half and tape both ends.



Now cut the pink (park/neutral something) and tape the side closest to the black tubing (drivers side) and ground the opposite side.


(TAPE THIS SIDE)





(GROUND THIS SIDE)

(The wire you ground is coming from this)

(Awful picture of where I grounded it)












AND....




VIOLA!









Manual Transmission:

Credit to @DrVonEvilSatan


Alright so I figured out the manuals.

1) Locate your trucks center console.

http://imgur.com/Zcx5hLW

2) Twist the chrome collar below the shift knob and separate then unscrew the shift knob.

http://imgur.com/wVNDFwa
http://imgur.com/Qce5RxG

3) Locate the upper part of the console, then pull gently up to unsnap it from the base clearing the emergency brake and shift boots in the process.

http://imgur.com/yafeOIt

4) Somewhere after the white connector, cut the purple wire and insulate both ends. This is the speed sensor. I used heat shrink tubing

http://imgur.com/q41i3vG
http://imgur.com/FB3aeat

5) Cut the blue wire close-ish to the connector. This is the clutch sensor. It has a constant feed of 12v and cuts to 0v when the clutch is depressed. Insulate the part close to the connector.

http://imgur.com/rpHOgIm
http://imgur.com/N2aeBpT

6) Feed the rest of the blue wire through the tape so it's separated.

http://imgur.com/JqLpjBj

7) Locate the 12v accessory port to the rear, unsnap the wire mount from the console and undo the electrical tape. Cut and strip the ends.

http://imgur.com/8PuQrlc

8) Using a connector like me or simply twist the ends back together and connect it to the other end of the blue wire. This will mimic the constant 12v signal tricking the inverter to believing the clutch is always in the upright position.

http://imgur.com/fkQ0DOA

9) Retie and dress the assembly and snap the console cover back

http://imgur.com/m7IlxVB






I did not have the time or patience to try and figure out which wires to tap into in order to add a 120V in the cab. If you would like a copy of the wiring diagram to try and figure it out PM me and I'll give it to you.

If you have any more info or suggestions to improve the OP please let me know.

 

Nice write up!

 

All I know is they've been doing it on the 2nd gens for years and they've been okay.

 

I'll dig into it tomorrow to find if there's a difference on the manual trucks like the 2nd's

 

Think about it this way, if you're tailgating or camping the truck is sitting there idling, headlights off, stereo off. Only thing the alternator runs is the engine and inverter. Remember the alternator amp output and any accessories you may have running in the background. 400w is the equivalent of roughly double your high and low beam lighting system. Your truck can run it, but keep in mind what else you have being powered.

 

Any tips on how to open up the center console/remove it? Planning to apply sound deadener and possibly mount my component crossovers under the center console if there's room.

 

You just start pulling from the very front cup holders. You might have to pull with a little force at first. Don't forget to remove the shift knob too. There is also one set of wires that needs disconnected. After that first piece is off then you can remove the center console. It's just (2) 10mm bolts in the bottom of the console and it pulls right out.


Just start pulling here.





Once you start getting it up there will be wires to disconnect right about here.

 

I thought of this when I saw what the OP did.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/brand-new-tacoma-on-fire.436699/

 

Looking forward to that big fat insurance check.

 

I wonder if this is the same truck that caught fire?

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/brand-new-tacoma-on-fire.436699/

 

You're late to the party.

 

All joking aside, any members concerned about issues might have better luck asking here. Considering this have been done for a few years they'd be better off telling you.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-ac-outlet-in-cab-400-watt-anytime-mod.322320/

 

The speed sensor wire hasnt affected the radio motion disabling has it by any chance?

 

No. I pulled that out and was trying to figure how to let if type while moving if there's a passenger or something. No such luck.

 

Yeah i dont believe its analogue any more. More than likely digital coming in on a databus signal.. Same as my wrx.

Worth a shot..

 

I know on some of the older models they sell stuff to disable it. Nothing I've seen for the 16's yet though. I couldn't even find a simple work around on the 2nd gen so we might be sol.

 

No success yet, anyone have a manual wiring diagram available?

 

Alright so I figured out the manuals.

1) Locate your trucks center console.

http://imgur.com/Zcx5hLW

2) Twist the chrome collar below the shift knob and separate then unscrew the shift knob.

http://imgur.com/wVNDFwa
http://imgur.com/Qce5RxG

3) Locate the upper part of the console, then pull gently up to unsnap it from the base clearing the emergency brake and shift boots in the process.

http://imgur.com/yafeOIt

4) Somewhere after the white connector, cut the purple wire and insulate both ends. This is the speed sensor. I used heat shrink tubing

http://imgur.com/q41i3vG
http://imgur.com/FB3aeat

5) Cut the blue wire close-ish to the connector. This is the clutch sensor. It has a constant feed of 12v and cuts to 0v when the clutch is depressed. Insulate the part close to the connector.

http://imgur.com/rpHOgIm
http://imgur.com/N2aeBpT

6) Feed the rest of the blue wire through the tape so it's separated.

http://imgur.com/JqLpjBj

7) Locate the 12v accessory port to the rear, unsnap the wire mount from the console and undo the electrical tape. Cut and strip the ends.

http://imgur.com/8PuQrlc

8) Using a connector like me or simply twist the ends back together and connect it to the other end of the blue wire. This will mimic the constant 12v signal tricking the inverter to believing the clutch is always in the upright position.

http://imgur.com/fkQ0DOA

9) Retie and dress the assembly and snap the console cover back

http://imgur.com/m7IlxVB

 

Right on man! Nice job. I'll add this to the OP tonight.

 

I only popped one fuse in the process. .