"Wheeler's Anonymous"

Ya they cost a shit ton of money.. CVJ is fine never done it myself but heard good stuff about them

 

Are they better then toyota oem or is cvj just more cost efficient?

 

ahhh nice nice. I am a boot blowin machine

 

I'm doing both sides, so x2 axles from them, plus inner and outer boot upgrades.
x2 axles $198
x2 red boots $85
x2 blue boots $70
shipping $50
$402 total if I get my old ones back to them to re-coupe the core charge- I guess the shipping would add to the total cost.

Figured this is the best route for price to quality ratio if not doing a DIY rebuild. I hope the boots are worth it. IMO my OEMs at 200K miles had more life in them, the ~2" lift killed the boot.

 

Yea my oem boots lasted 170k until I got a little lift, then the passenger side went out... Then a few months later the driver side went out

 

So I have a question.

I've really been torn on getting tires. Primarily because I've spent so much on this truck in the last 8 weeks.

The bigger I go, the more $ for tires and the more $ for modifications needed so I don't rub.

Is a tire that is more or less, 1" taller and 1" wider worth it?

 

Ive gone through 4 boots @ 85k miles 3 inner and 1 outer

Yes >.>

 

What size are you at now? 32?

I've wheeled with a buddy that has about 1 inch smaller an running a 10.5 width an he struggled climbing a little rock pass which got me nervous, my truck walked right up it with no traction issues. Same psi, same tire

 

Taller is definitely better. Wider is more for the good look. You get true ground clearance with a taller tire.

 

I'm a 265/70/17 so 31.62" x 10.43"

 

Tire size is very important. The size of your tire will give you more ground clearance and when you air down more contact patch. When you go larger rubbing is almost always an issue but don't be discouraged by that. You want to trim around and allow that wheel to move. Do it right or do it twice

 

Okay, so I need to just suck it up and get 285's. Got it!

 

I went from a 265/70r16 to a 285/75r16 an couldn't be happier. Bigger/aggressive look, notice alittle bit compared to stock acceleration wise with 410 gears. But then again, I didn't buy a truck to race??

Helps a lot with height clearance and track width, front rubbed a bit so pulled the trigger on some 5100s (temporary). Minor frame rub so I threw a small spacer on. Trimmed some plastic an pinch weld mod an now only rub flexed out turning.

 

YES!

 

If you are searching around on the forums you will probably find somebody with a similar build to yours and the tire size you are Desiring. That will give you an idea what kind of trimming and hammering you need

 

Wheel spacer can push your wheel out a little more too. That gives it a more aggressive stance as well as improving the width. The farther your tire is out the more articulation you have

 

Just keep cutting until the rub is gone

 

Yeah @Sandtaco has the same truck and with said tire size. He showed me what needs to be done. CMC and pinch weld mod.

I have the CMC being done tomorrow if @Yotamac is able to work it in with my compressor install.

I'll talk to him about the pinch weld. I think I should be able to do that myself though.

 

So this is what I'm going with, going to stick with the billies...I know a lot of folks don't like the ride quality but I'm not bothered by a stiff ride, and this will give me the funds left over for the new tires that I'm surely going to have to get like @MADSTEEZE is going through right now lol.

Going with the OME 881 coils and the HS progressive 3 leaf AAL, and add a diff drop kit. Should end up with a 2" lift, maybe slightly higher in the rear.

Should I add the UCA's?

 

I have Konig Countersteer Typ X with -10mm offset, so I don't think I need wheel spacers?