Dual Battery Setups! Let's see them! Multiple Batteries Thread!

I just double checked my 2 amp fuse and it was blown...replaced and my lights work. Good to go!

 

I pulled mine out and the switch doesn't function without it, and looks fine. I wish it were that simple.

 

Sorry to hear that yours is being a PITA!

 

I'm curious about this too, I have one yellow and one red. red is the house battery yellow is the aux. i'm running it this way Per suggestion of a fellow member but I'm unclear as to what the differences between them are.

 

The Red has higher cranking amps - ideal for your house battery because you always want that to start
The Yellow is a deep cycle battery that stores power - ideal for your accessories

 

From the FAQ page:

What is the difference between REDTOP®,YELLOWTOP® and BLUETOP® batteries?
REDTOP®: Use this for normal engine starting where an alternator immediately monitors the state of charge and provides energy to the battery whenever it is needed. This would describe most stock vehicles.

• Automotive and RV underhood starting
• Heavy equipment where starting is the primary function
• Diesel-powered vehicles with no aftermarket electronics

YELLOWTOP®: Use this when electrical loads are higher than average, or when the discharge cycle is more than typical engine starting, such as vehicles without alternators. This also includes vehicles with significant electrical loads that may exceed the average alternator output (for example, aftermarket audio systems, GPS, chargers, winches, snowplows, inverters, drag cars). This can also include vehicles that have a lot of electronics from the factory, such as a minivan with power sliding doors and a DVD player, especially if the DVD player is used when the engine isn’t running.

• Racing vehicles without a charging system (alternator or generator)
• Dedicated drag-racing vehicles
• Diesel-powered vehicles with aftermarket electronics
• Car audio/video applications exceeding 250 watts over the OE system
• Vehicles or heavy equipment with inverters, hydraulics, winches or other accessories
• Electric vehicles

BLUETOP®: The BLUETOP® starting battery (dark gray case) is to be used when a dedicated starting battery is required; it should never be used for cycling duty. The dual-purpose BLUETOP® (light gray case) can be used for both starting and deep cycling; it is a true deep-cycle battery with extremely high cranking power.

• Trolling motors, marine applications with heavy electrical accessories and RVs should use a dual-purpose BLUETOP® (which is both a starting and deep-cycle battery)
• Use a BLUETOP® starting battery for marine applications and RVs when the battery’s only function is engine starting

Note: The difference between BLUETOP® and YELLOWTOP® deep-cycle batteries is that BLUETOP® batteries have both automotive (SAE) posts and threaded studs, while YELLOWTOP®S (other than D31T) only have SAE terminals.

If you ever get confused on the colored tops, just remember: if it has a dark gray case, then it’s a starting battery; if it has a light gray case, then it’s a deep-cycle (dual-purpose) battery.

 

I'm a rock climber. Bought my 07 AC 4x4 V6 back in January. Just did a fairly simple build-out so I can live out of it for climbing road trips - leaving in 4hrs for a couple months on the road.

I'll post a couple more pix soon, but this is what I have on my phone right now.

First, what you guys care about... the dual battery. Cheap-but-works route. I don't need a ton of capacity. Just charge phones, laptops, batteries, toothbrush, blender (cause road-side margaritas... well, you know).

So - Xantrex ProWatt SW600 Sine-wave power inverter (~$150) goes under the drivers seat. Be a little careful with clearance of the seat wires but it fits fine. The 1000W would fit too, and power a better blender Kinda wish I did that when my Nutribullet wouldnt fire (its 600W but the Xantrax is really 540W), so I bought a Ninja blender.



Ground the inverter with an M8 bolt under the drivers kick panel using 2 (body and neg term) 29" 4GA cables from Napa. Run power to the front with 4GA (really 6GA) pyramid cable from jet.com for $15/25' after coupons - any good power cord works.

Now heres the part you will like. The second battery is a group 24 deep cycle (I used from Adv Auto Parts with coupon codes for $60 instead of all the more expensive options. Its good enough for me but any group 24 fits). Remove the air intake hose, replace with a $20 Spectre Performance Air Filter. $15 metal battery tray from Baxter Auto Parts fits the spot with a tiny bit of dremel work. The two bolts from the ABS, and one bolt from the old air duct keep it secure - its a tight fit for a hold down, so either a strap, or a small bar I got a O'Reileys Auto Parts and some 8" J-hooks worked for me.

I mounted a PAC-200 next to this, and got some 'xscorpion' fuse holder w/18' 4gu wire on one side for $10 each - 3 of these (bat -> car ; start bat -> PAC ; bat -> PAC). Then just a few custom-length power runs using the pyramid cable (car audio store crimped them nicely for me for free).




From the Xantrax, I ran 'indoor' and 'outdoor' 110V AC and 12V DC. I put two 110V and 2 12V plugs into the back of the center console.


In the little 'pocket' in the back I put 110V (house plug with a marine cover plate) on each side (pix later). And I put in dual 12V marine plugs on each side. This was a bit of a pain with clearances. Doing it again I might just drill the 12V into the side of the truck (I actually did do this with a Blue Sea dual 2.4A USB plug I bought - which is $35 on Amazon - a lot more than the $4 marine 12V sockets I put in the pockets). If you really want to do this ask me cause there are some gottchas.



The back has a canopy (which I hope to find a high-top version on CL one day use as a replacement).
Under a sleeping platform I build a 'drawer' for one side and a 'slider" for the other. Slider is for longer items and drawers give some organization.
5/8" plywood covered with Home Depot carpet make the sleeping platform. There are little 'pockets' on either side to get access to the small space behind the wheel wells. The plywood is split into 3*2' sections for convertability. The back section is screwed into a pieces of 3/4" plywood center support. Front (tailgate) part is cut in half so its easily removable/convertable to
1) carry tall items
2) remove so I can sleep lower (under platform) if I a solo and want less storage but more headroom
3) without drawer/slider I can sit and have a little table or be able to sit up.






Nothing super fancy or expensive but works for me... I hope.
Drawer/slider bottoms are 1/2" Shop Birch. Sides for drawers are 3/4" Shop Birch Plywood ripped to 8" high. Slider is same ripped to 2.5" high.

Now to hit the road!
Jeremy

 

Done!

Simple dual battery setup using a solenoid to separate the Starter Battery from the Auxiliary Battery. Starter Battery is a 24F regular flooded battery by Interstate bought at Costco. Auxiliary Battery is Optima Yellow Top D27F.



Solenoid is attached to driver's side engine bay and can be switched on/off from an in-cab mounted dash switch. Circuit protection for both batteries are 200 AMP ANL fuses.



27F Battery Tray is by WirthCo, from Amazon, mounted on passenger side, using available mounting points on the fender.



Auxiliary battery provides power to a Smittyybuilt X20 Comp 12k Winch mounted to a

$721 Warn 26370 Winch Mount Carrier Kit for 9.5xp, XD9, XD9i, M6, M8, and Tabor 9K Winches

Warn 26370 Multi-Mount Portable Winch Carrier. For safety, I connected a switch between the outbound Auxiliary power to the external winch power connectors.



Blues Seas #6007 4-position switch. I can switch power to (1) Front connector or (2) Rear connector or (1+2) Both connectors (at the 6 o'clock position, hidden by switch knob) or turn everything off.



Here's the portable winch mounted to the @Mobtown Offroad front receiver. It connects to the Auxiliary Battery via a Warn Quick Connect power connector. This same portable winch can be attached to the rear tow receiver and connected by a long ass

$276 Warn 32966 24' Quick Connect Power Cable

Warn 32966 Quick Connect 24' Cable that I snaked along the frame rails to the engine bay.



Here's another view of the Winch electrically connected to the Aux battery. Also on the ground is a Jumper Cable that I added an off-brand "Anderson" Connector (same as the Warn Connector, except for a plastic tab that I had to Dremel off, and 1/3 the price, from Amazon) Now I can jump start another vehicle without opening the hood.


I hate everything remotely related to electrical work. So, surprisingly, everything's tested and everything works.

Thanks everyone for your input and suggestions.
@Crom @docloco @qnyla @bjmoose @CVYota @Chuy @MJonaGS32 @Iggy. @HeliMedic @HolyHandGrenade

I used a little bit of everyone's ideas to come up with my setup. I think I spent more time researching and asking questions than the time it took to install.

 

Nicely done!

 

Here is my setup. Finished it a few weeks ago and works like a charm so far!

 

I can't seem to find anyone with the Genesis off-road system in their taco. Do I just suck at tw searches, or would I be the first?

 

Do you have a JK you're going to put it in?

 

They have a universal kit for not.a.jeeper

 

That is cool! what year is truck? im planning on adding a dual battery also.

 

Finished up my dual battery setup. Worked with @Iggy. to get this done. His help and wiring skills were essential to making it happen.

 

2007

 

Its a Betterbuilt toolbox. I forget the size. I can measure later. It fits nicely between the wheelwells with enough room to put my dirtbike wheel on either side for hauling it. Worked out perfect for the battery setup.

 

It turned out great! That location was perfect considering the alternatives.

 

So I have a question for the Guru's here............I'm running 2 group 35 yellowtop Optimas in the stock location and an IBS dual controller. There is something that is draining the Aux battery down to under 10 everyday and I can't figure out where it is pulling the power from. I also have solar up top (45watts between 3 panels) that is wired to the Aux battery and those don't seem to be working even though the charge controller shows that it is charging.

Not sure what is going on. Any idea's guys?

 

Can you tell us a bit more? What else is connected to the 2nd battery?

Try charging the battery and disconnect the charge controller to see if that's faulty.

Best practices for something like this is to disconnect everything from both batteries and fully charge them. Next would be to connect the IBS and see if that's working ok for a few days. Then connect each accessory one at a time to see where your draw is coming from.