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Persistent bump steer

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by braik, Jun 20, 2016.

  1. Jun 20, 2016 at 11:44 AM
    #1
    braik

    braik [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2013
    Member:
    #115472
    Messages:
    619
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    Louisville, KY
    Vehicle:
    2006 4.0L 4x4 BASE
    2" Ironman 4x4 (B) Front Spacer Level LR UCAs Level 8: Tracker Wheels 255/75 Cooper ATPs Welded Rock Sliders Weathertech floormats Wet Okole seat covers JVC Head Unit Diff Breather Mod Zip Tie Mod Needle Bearing Mod HID Retrofit (Acura TL-R)
    I've done so much to this thing to try and get the ride right as well as keep the lifted look. I understand a lifted truck is going to wander a bit, but this thing will almost dive off the road if I take my hand off the wheel going down the highway. It's a chore to drive for more than a short distance because I have to basically fight the steering wheel to keep it straight. It isn't pulling as far as I can tell, it just follows the slope of the road very sensitively. There doesn't seem to be any play in the steering and it responds well... just sensitive. The suspension has had time to settle since I've been running it for close to a year.

    What I've done:

    1. 2" Ironman lift (leafs/coilovers) with 3/4" aluminum spacer up front to level.
    2. LR UCA set to neutral postition (+2 caster).
    3. New wheels and tires (255/75/17 @33psi), road force balanced, 17X8.5 6-139.70 -6
    4. Alignment done:
    -- Caster = 2.9 and 2.8
    -- Camber = .1 and -.1
    -- SAI = 11.9 and 12.2
    5. No extra weight in the front or rear.
    6. "Zip tie mod" which shouldn't make a difference on the road.

    I honestly don't know what else to do. I've just taken the tire pressure down to 33psi to see if that helps at all and I've been looking at replacing the steering rack bushings as a last resort. I literally don't know of anything else it could be.
     
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2016
  2. Jun 20, 2016 at 11:50 AM
    #2
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    Lake Tahoe
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    ...too much shit to list.
    Get as much caster as you can. You've got the LR UCAs. No reason why you couldn't get 4* out of them if you take it out of the neutral setting. Also, I always dial in a slightly negative camber with IFS. You'll get better tire contact and won't wear the outsides of the tires. Toe should be slightly toe in since most of the time you'll be RWD.
    Also what's the backspacing on your wheels? Just adding taller tires and not adjusting backspacing/offset on the wheels will leave you with a negative scrub radius
     
  3. Jun 20, 2016 at 11:57 AM
    #3
    braik

    braik [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2013
    Member:
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    Messages:
    619
    Gender:
    Male
    Louisville, KY
    Vehicle:
    2006 4.0L 4x4 BASE
    2" Ironman 4x4 (B) Front Spacer Level LR UCAs Level 8: Tracker Wheels 255/75 Cooper ATPs Welded Rock Sliders Weathertech floormats Wet Okole seat covers JVC Head Unit Diff Breather Mod Zip Tie Mod Needle Bearing Mod HID Retrofit (Acura TL-R)

    17X8.5 6-139.70 -6

    What's a "negative scrub radius"?
     
  4. Jun 20, 2016 at 12:06 PM
    #4
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    Jason
    Lake Tahoe
    Vehicle:
    2012 DCSB Sport
    ...too much shit to list.
    Draw an imaginary line between the UCA and LCA ball joint/uniball. Continue that line down to the ground and intersection of the tire. If the line extends outward passed the center line of the tire, that's a negative scrub radius. If the line is inward (towards the frame) of tire center line, that's a positive scrub radius. See below for some pictures:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  5. Jun 20, 2016 at 12:26 PM
    #5
    braik

    braik [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2013
    Member:
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    Messages:
    619
    Gender:
    Male
    Louisville, KY
    Vehicle:
    2006 4.0L 4x4 BASE
    2" Ironman 4x4 (B) Front Spacer Level LR UCAs Level 8: Tracker Wheels 255/75 Cooper ATPs Welded Rock Sliders Weathertech floormats Wet Okole seat covers JVC Head Unit Diff Breather Mod Zip Tie Mod Needle Bearing Mod HID Retrofit (Acura TL-R)
    So if I'm calculating this correctly(8.5" width and -6" offset), I have a 4.5" backspace right? Isn't that where it's supposed to be?

    If caster is the issue I'll max it out, but I'd like to be sure before I take it in for another alignment... again. They aren't cheap and I don't think "I didn't have my caster, toe, or camber numbers correct. Can you do it again for free?" will fly.
     
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2016
  6. Jun 20, 2016 at 2:21 PM
    #6
    braik

    braik [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2013
    Member:
    #115472
    Messages:
    619
    Gender:
    Male
    Louisville, KY
    Vehicle:
    2006 4.0L 4x4 BASE
    2" Ironman 4x4 (B) Front Spacer Level LR UCAs Level 8: Tracker Wheels 255/75 Cooper ATPs Welded Rock Sliders Weathertech floormats Wet Okole seat covers JVC Head Unit Diff Breather Mod Zip Tie Mod Needle Bearing Mod HID Retrofit (Acura TL-R)
    Wait, does the scrub radius have anything directly to do with backspacing or are they just sort of related? Adding a 1" spacer would increase my BS to 6.5, correct? Which would solve the scrub radius problem (if I have one), but throw off my backspacing.
     

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