LCA Bushings: OEM, Energy Suspension, Whiteline

What method did you use to pop out the old bushings? I'm liking the way the OP did it, but am open to other ideas too.

 

I used a small torch to heat the inner sleeves and used a pry bar and slid them out. Then I used the same torch to burn the rubber out of the outer sleeves while they where in the LCA. I used the pry bar to scrape away the Burt/melted rubber to speed up the process. Once 98% of the rubber was gone I used a small wire brush on my drill to clean the i side of the outer sleeves, and a bench grinder with a wire wheel on the outside of the inner sleeve. I did it over 3 days while I waited for parts.

 

I should mention that I used a pry bar to pop the larger washer off the inner sleeve. At the time I didn't know that I needed the inner sleeves for the ES bushings. Luckily they where not damaged. I needed a hammer to tap them back on once I had everything inplace.

 

I've read the 5 pages and may have missed this, but what are the before and after results? I have a nice compliant 881/5100 front suspension and rear, but the ride quality is still really harsh over small disturbances, a lot of NVH IMO not from the spring/shock combo, but other parts.

I have already replaced my UCAs and steering rack bushings, looks like the last things to hit are the LCAs, steering tie rods and lastly cabin bushings.

When swapping over- be it moog, OEM, whiteline, was there a noticeable improvement? Looking at the design of the OEM bushings and the whitelines, the whitelines will be significantly stiffer. If the pricing was similar I'd just go OEM, but its going to be about $200 to go OEM vs. just $60 for whitelines.

I'm afraid of cheaper aftermarket OEM like brands, they seem to tend to be too soft and feel almost as bad as blown OEMs to begin with.

 

So I have developed a pop in my lower control arm bushings (Whiteline) since replacing these. Didn't start until after having the Dealer do an alignment, to you think they didn't torque them enough?

 

Mine have also been popping post alignment. I'm thinking they need a higher torque spec due to the fact that there is no friction hatch on the washers. Also the rear bolt can't be torqued without removing the steering arm so I'm pretty sure the dealer didn't torque them during the alignment.

I've been considering pulling the washers and either stamping or cutting a grid pattern into them so that they bite into the metal better.

 

I assume a crows foot would work for the torque. I may try and get one and see.

 

are you guys that are replacing the whole LCA going OEM or aftermarket? getting ready to change my bushings out

 

OEM is the only LCA I know unless you go LT.

 

I'm betting he is referring to OEM Toyota arms, or stock aftermarket replacement arms from somewhere like rock auto...

 

oic

 

Yea thats what i ment...my bad...lol

 

About to do my LCA bushings in the next couple of weeks. How has everyone who did the Whitelines still liking them?

Really want to avoid squeaking at all costs. My bushings right now are so shot that it actually makes peoples heads turn.

 

If you want to avoid squeaking at all cost go OEM. They are rubber and will never speak. Oem bushings bind causing loss of travel and wear quicker if wheeling a lot and over extending control arms.

All polys end up squeaking once they wash out. Grease them up like crazy with silicone grease. Superlube silicone based.

Whitelines come with metal sleeves and need press for install. ES require you to save the oem cam sleeve. They don't require press but must work more at releasing rubber from OEM sleeve using blow torch.

For what its worth my ES bushings flex great, won't wear out but are super squeaky. Mine are pretty bad after a few years.

 

Have you two considered doing the loose steering shaft weld/fix? I am currently in the process of replacing my LBJ, inner/outer tie rods and steering rack bushings but I'm certain it won't fix the "loose steering" my truck suffers from. I'' doing these as a maintenance and will tackle the steering shaft next week

 

I guess I'll throw the video I made with my buddy Sean into the mix. I really like seeing all the different Macgyver ways people get it done. I especially like the one using the press.

I've done this job twice now. The first one, the cam adjuster came out no problem. The second one, both passenger side cams were rusted in place in the bushing sleeve. No amount of pounding would free them so we had to cut them out with a reciprocating saw. I have heard Diablo Steel Demon Carbide Tipped Blades are the way to go because they cut through material very fast.

https://www.youtube.com/embed/kmaZNBp1gZM


Part 2 shows you how to cut out frozen cam adjuster sleeves and also how to use a hydraulic press to remove the bushings.

https://www.youtube.com/embed/6FzEHygizoI

 

+1 on Diablo carbide blades. They are awesome.

 

Which bushings do you favor?

 

If I we're doing the job on my own rig, I'd use Whiteline.

 

Ok cool. I figured I would give them a shot before trying OEMs.