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Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Discussion in 'Solid Axle Suspension' started by Supra TT, Feb 20, 2012.

  1. Jun 17, 2016 at 2:20 AM
    #7201
    allenfab

    allenfab I hate everything

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    Todd
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    I just really liked having multiple low range options when I had duals in my tundra. i have a 5-speed myself so the more low range options, the better. What shifters do you have?

    Thanks for the info. I really would like to save at least a little money and headache by using the traditional style shifters, but I don't want to buy them and end up needing cable shifters.
     
  2. Jun 17, 2016 at 5:21 PM
    #7202
    1999RegCab

    1999RegCab Well-Known Member

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    3-link SAS
    I have the regular mechanical shifters that came with it. Apparently they have a better design now - though some people keep saying that the cable shifters are better. Dunno...haven't installed it yet. If mechanical shifters don't work well I'll get the other ones. Hopefully they'll let me exchange them and pay for the difference if needed.

    I hear you about multiple low ranges. It's a cool thing to have...though at times it's not something you really end up using all the time. I think guys with auto trannies tend benefit more from it. With the manual tranny you can always upshift if more wheel spin is needed. HOpe I won't regret the 2spd! I got the lowest gears they had available (5.0) My final crawl ratio will be around 101:1 That's not super mega low as with multiple low ranges but it should be plenty low for most situations.
     
    Last edited: Jun 17, 2016
  3. Jun 17, 2016 at 7:11 PM
    #7203
    allenfab

    allenfab I hate everything

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    I've actually heard that the atlas brand cable shifters weren't that great and that there were a couple other companies that made a far better cable shifter setup for them. I'm sure they all work fine when properly mounted but just the simplicity of a regular mechanical shifter makes me them that over cable shifters.

    From my experience and my readings, auto guys generally stay with a higher low range gear because of the reduction from the torque converter alone.... But the manual guys want the lowest gearing possible to prevent stalling, which can be annoying, embarrassing, and dangerous. I've also read that the ideal low range for a manual is around 200:1. I'm going with the 11.7:1 which should but my lowest low around 212:1
     
  4. Jun 17, 2016 at 7:20 PM
    #7204
    RPS1030

    RPS1030 Well-Known Member

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    200 is crazy stupid low. I'm in the 170s with dual toy cases (4:7s in the rear), manual Trans, 4.10s, and 37s. Most of my crawling has been double low 3rd gear with the occasional 2nd gear for extra control.
     
    allenfab[QUOTED] likes this.
  5. Jun 17, 2016 at 8:48 PM
    #7205
    1999RegCab

    1999RegCab Well-Known Member

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    So I guess there's different theories about the shifters for the Atlas lol. Well, I hope the mechanical ones I have will work out well.

    What I meant about guys with Auto trannies is that having multiple low ranges is easier than just having Hi and Super Low only - which is more manageable with a manual since you can upshift from a dead stop in case the gearing is too low and you need more wheel spin.

    Interesting. I imagine there are not very many situations in which you will be in low-low and 1st gear.
     
    allenfab[QUOTED] likes this.
  6. Jun 18, 2016 at 7:11 AM
    #7206
    slander

    slander Honorary Crawl Boi

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    I use lo lo 1st when im leading a bunch a jeeps or guys with two speed cases...:luvya:

    I use double low all the time, cant wait to see how slow it is with the 5.29s!
     
  7. Jun 18, 2016 at 7:42 AM
    #7207
    allenfab

    allenfab I hate everything

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    Here's all my available ratios with a 11.7:1 and 10.34:1 Atlas 4 speeds

    transfercaseratios.jpg
     
  8. Jun 18, 2016 at 11:45 AM
    #7208
    1999RegCab

    1999RegCab Well-Known Member

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    Damn, that gave me a headache lol That's a shit load of options and gearing.

    Well...I hope mine works out long term. It's too late now to change though.
     
  9. Jun 20, 2016 at 7:49 PM
    #7209
    bayareataco

    bayareataco Well-Known Member

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    Chomping at the bit, getting closer!
    image.jpg
     
    Nate87, seanpistol, planesane and 7 others like this.
  10. Jun 20, 2016 at 8:49 PM
    #7210
    bullaculla

    bullaculla IKA fabrications

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    Da big big island!
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    All pro 3 link SAS kit, Diamond axle, kings on 37" MTR/K
    Bad... Ass...
     
  11. Jun 20, 2016 at 10:17 PM
    #7211
    Ugly Betty

    Ugly Betty Well-Known Member

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    1985 ex cab, 92 toyota pickup, 95 4runner
    That is sooooo beautiful!!!!
     
  12. Jun 20, 2016 at 11:10 PM
    #7212
    1999RegCab

    1999RegCab Well-Known Member

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    3-link SAS
    SOLID keyed knuckles with Artec steering arms. I have the exact sep up...gottla love how they use bolts instead on studs :D
     
  13. Jun 20, 2016 at 11:29 PM
    #7213
    bayareataco

    bayareataco Well-Known Member

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    They are pimp, so fuckin beefy and well designed. SOLID makes some awesome shit.
     
  14. Jun 21, 2016 at 8:59 AM
    #7214
    Acerwin

    Acerwin The unNORM NORM

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    Well have my eye on a Ford F-250 front and rear Setup for $1450 at a junk yard. Any inputs would be great. I was told to just get a 14 bolt rear but idk :notsure:
     
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2016
  15. Jun 21, 2016 at 9:26 AM
    #7215
    1999RegCab

    1999RegCab Well-Known Member

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    Originally I wanted to go with Reid knuckles. But my axle builder introduced me to the SOLID brand. I immediately like their keyed studless design. The knuckles are just massive and beefy. Not saying they are better than Reid's but they are certainly different.

    The Artec arms are just insanely pimped out lol. I havr never seen steering arms that impressive. And with the tie in kit for thhe double shear setup the whole thing becomes a tank.

    What year axle? Is that a super duty axle combo? Need more details.
     
  16. Jun 21, 2016 at 9:31 AM
    #7216
    rctoy

    rctoy It's about to get real!!!

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    TRD super charger, URD fuel mods and 2.1 super grip pully, Headers, 2.5" glass pack, Dana 60 front 4 linked, 14bolt rears on chev 63's, 5.38 gears, ARB locker in the front, PSC full hydraulic steering, 18" SAW 2.5" triple rate coils overs, FOA 2.5 air bumps, B&M launch controls, B&M trans cooler, 4 alpine 6X8 type R's amped, Red led rock lights, CBI front and rear bumpers (my design) CBI sliders, 4 riggid dualys front 2 in the rear, custom track bar, ARB snorkle, warn VR8000 winch, Viair 480c twin compressers..
    I'll post a few pics tonight ow what i did. I ordered the "universal cable shift set because i didn't want to spend hours building shift arms to clear other shifters.
    they say you have a little more shifting resistance but as long as nothing is bound up they shift just fine in my opinion. I went with the 2.73 in the front box and 3.0 in the rear box and in all honesty i like having that small split and when in compound low it's still stupid slow with the auto trans.

    it's actually not that hard to get a small hole and a good seal with the cable shifters
     
    allenfab[QUOTED] likes this.
  17. Jun 21, 2016 at 9:32 AM
    #7217
    rctoy

    rctoy It's about to get real!!!

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    to bad you don't live near me i can get both front and rear axles with drive lines out of an 98 f350 for $400
     
  18. Jun 21, 2016 at 10:00 AM
    #7218
    Acerwin

    Acerwin The unNORM NORM

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    :bananadead: I'm not going to buy those axles for $1450. I wish I lived closer to you also cause $400 is a great price for both
     
  19. Jun 21, 2016 at 10:03 AM
    #7219
    Sacrifice

    Sacrifice Motorcycle Goon

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    The 98 wouldn't be the same as the 05+. There are differences
     
  20. Jun 21, 2016 at 10:15 AM
    #7220
    Acerwin

    Acerwin The unNORM NORM

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    Yeah just saw that. For some reason I thought I read 08
     
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