Supercharger/Armor and HIGH Heat, How to cool it??

There are plenty of armored and S/C'ed trucks drving up hill on 100* days and doing ok. I think there is something wrong, again, probably a plugged radiator. Check your lower radiator behind your bumper/skids.

 

Hey to all I have a 2.74 pulley 7th injector red line moved to 6500rpm.And no overheating At All.Keep investigating.missing something.Good luck.

 

Also check radiator cap spring/gasket for proper sealing, check rad fluid level, etc...

 

Will do, hopefully something this minor will fix it.

 

Another is swapping out the oem electric radiator fans for high flow aftermarket set ups . These hi perf dual fans will cool down your radiator faster. I think the oem fans are 1700 -1800 cfm ea , aftermarket fans are 2600 -2800 cfm ea

 

Try running a fuel injector cleaner check air filter and plugs just to b sure.Never hurts just time.blame it on your wife???

 

Rember Toyota wouldn't offer it if it roasted motors.....

 

^ wtf? Some retarded responses above..

Cooling systems have limitations. Not only is your radiator trying to cool the engine, it has to cool the transmission fluid as well. The air entering the radiator is already being heated since you have the AC on, you have an oil cooler in front of it, and also the Supercharger's heat exchanger. They are all pre-heating the air before it reaches the radiator to cool it.
You can try to improve the air flow over the radiator, such as an electric fan conversion or moving the horns or other items to get more air flow.
There are also other coolants and additives (like redline water wetter/ engine ice coolant) that I've used in other applications to keep temps lower.
Trans temps can be controlled with an external cooler, with/without a fan, leaving it in gear instead of overdrive.

You have also added power with the supercharger, added weight with armor and accessories, and lessened leverage with larger tires. You may also want to re-gear. Trans won't hunt for gears on inclines, increases the leverage back to stock, can stay out of boost if you choose. All of those things will help generate less heat.

 

I think what needs to be determined, where are you getting your temperature readings from?

Honestly sounds like the scanguage / ultragauge / OBD bluetooth adaptor + app is reading temps wrong.

Buddy with a SC'd taco with smaller pully, 285's full armor, towing a 6000+lb trailer up the 14 in 100* ambients in 3rd gear at 4.5k doesnt even come close to hitting 240* coolant temps.

 

This wouldn't be counted amongst the "retarded responses" if OP had an original truck. Lots of people run similar setups with little issue

I would be troubleshooting at this point, not planning upgrades.

 

Sure, but I would assume he troubleshot before going on the forums and acting surprised hat noone else has similar issues. You just have to realize that all his modifications add create more heat and the front bumper and winch restricts airflow to extract that heat. You add more heat and make the cooling system less efficient..
I was just suggesting some supporting mods that would help the situation.
As for an alternative to the TRD heat exchanger, there are many options out there, the twin pass from the terminator cobras would be a good one for a stock bumper, but he has a steel bumper so mounting locations are going to be scarce.

 

Next time lets try to offer our thoughts without calling everyone elses "retarted." I was just being hard to get the point across.

 

I apologize if I offended any mentally handicapped people with my choice of words.

OP asked for help keeping engine temps and trans fluid temps down and get responses for icebox cooling of intake charge and broken intercooler pumps, and bags of ice. , right back at ya.

 

I would look closely at what you have done and not , before adding ice coolers and worrying your tranny cooler is or isn't the problem.Look in your radiator after draining it.If build up in core tubes.A problem B clutch fan C air blockage D is the guy saying get a cooler spend lots of money! I think you know what D means.ps we are here to help.And changing gears higher or lower puts the truck in a different rpm range.Meaning cooling effect is also changed.Run 1st gear up then 2nd.( automatic) then hold out gear Don't rev to blow ! But take a temp reading.If it is the same it is flow issue in the rad or clutch fan failing.But hey I'm a retard .But I Ain't Dumb.

 

I live at 6000 ASL and regularly carry 2 dirtbikes and camping gear to 9000 ASL at varying speeds in a 2011 TRD SC TRD Sport. It doesn't have the armor nor the temp issues. YMMiV.

You're not getting a lot of troubleshooting tips:

Cooling System
1) independent verification of temperature measurement
2) +1 to condition of inside (corrosion buildup in core from adding hard water/wrong coolant) and outside (dust, mud, bugs) of radiator.
3) faulty fan clutch
4) faulty thermostat
5) faulty water pump (would manifest anytime)

Fuel System
1) leaning out at altitude but that is counter intuitive
a) maf calibrator not tuned for altitude
b) fuel pump
c) fuel pressure regulator

A quick way to cool an overheated motor is to get water onto the cooling fins on the outside of the radiator and driving (even slowly). Phase change (evaporation) has an awesome cooling effect.

- cliff

 

What is your coolant mix ratio? You should be at least 50/50 water to antifreeze, but you can actually use MORE water and less antifreeze to increase the heat carrying capacity of the coolant.

Just be cognizant that this should only be done when the weather is warm. As soon as you are nearing freezing temps, you need to add more antifreeze.

You'll need to do some research on whether the altitude you're at negates this concept. (more reading here: )

 

How badly does it affect A/C performance?

@OP how often do you see this happen or is the supercharger new to you? I'm wondering if you're fixing a rare issue that could be resolved by driving habits rather than thousands of dollars.

 

Curious as to how OP "keeps radiator clean"? I would guess this is the problem. For example, washing it out with a garden hose just enough to make mud clogging up the fins, using air pressure that is not strong enough to blow dirt out, but rather just pack it in more? Often people think they are cleaning out their radiator, and in fact they are just plugging it up even more.

 

Thanks for all the replies. I am somewhat new to the charger world as this is my first but the truck was charged before I added the front bumper and winch. Never noticed any issues then. Few months after adding those I noticed even during night runs the truck getting warmer than usual. My reads are coming from a scangauge II. I regularly was the truck after outings and make sure the radiator isn't full of bugs dirt etc. Pump on the charger is working as I can open the fill bottle and see everything circulating. Even the temp read out on the dash started walking it's way up on the grades. New coolant in both charger and radiator so not bad fluid. The idea of moving stuff out of the front is what I'm going to try next horn and such. My thoughts were to add pusher fans on the front but don't want to obstruct more flow. Gearing might be my best friend in the future. The crank fan is obviously working too so just working down a checklist of things to figure out how to run cooler.

 

I drive pretty conservative to stay on a better fuel economy. Boost for fun or passing or climbing grades as the Trans doesn't shift all over the place now.