Supercharger/Armor and HIGH Heat, How to cool it??

my plan is definitely to change to syn atf, but as the truck was in for a main seal leak and I had a trip coming I just had them change the fluid so it would be done.. was lacking the time I needed to be able to do it myself.

 

I believe the the factory is 180 so URD's 170 is safe enough in the winters it will allow the engine/ECM to run warm enough to reach closed loop operation. I notice that once it gets to 190 its really hard for the cooling system to drop heat.

On hills I typically drop a gear or 2 and moderate gas. No hammer time or loafing as that means heavier load on the drivetrain. Just my opinion.

 

It's one of those things: it'll never be clean enough... it'll never be dirty enough.

Gotta wag dicks, y'know?

 

sounds good I will also look into this. with almost 70k on the truck a stat change wouldn't hurt.

 

yup lol that is the world we live in..
I just wanted honest help and not people to burn me alive because of the condition it was in.. I mean I feel it isn't horrible. heck most of my buddies give me a weird look every time I pop the hood to start cleaning..

 

Heavy duty aluminum radiator will do the trick for sure. If this guy makes one, I'll hop in on a group buy. Or if he dosent lets get some TW peeps together and create some demand

http://www.mishimoto.com/aluminum-radiator-performance.html?gclid=COPT5JG3vM0CFRSPfgodNSgHSA

 

those look pretty wicked, but not showing one for our trucks.

 

Well I should have some time today after work and will begin the cleaning process. see what I might find.

 

I wouldn't mess around with different temperature thermostats. If you run the engine too cool, you'll screw with your emissions efficiency. Since you're in CA, this is probably something you don't want to risk playing with.

Running hotter means reduced life. The gaskets and seals on your engine were designed to run under a given temperature range.

I looked at your pics and nothing seems THAT bad. The bumper you're running does have a bit less airflow than a stock front end, though. I would see if removing that lightbar helps with the temps, though. You could always relocate the light bar to a flat area if need be (instead of having it in that recess where the air can flow through).

 

I can live with the stock rad. But if reach out to them and they are willing to make one with extra cooling capacity plus think it will help, count me in to help the cause/ demand.

 

Yeah that was my concern too. But I'm glad I did it. In the AZ winter, engine runs fine. UG says 5-10 degrees cooler than stock. In the summer every little bit helps. Like I said, after 190 it dosent make much of a difference but it takes longer to get there.

 

I was thinking of trying to maybe drill more holes in the under side of the bumper to allow more air flow or figure out a way to help divert the air to the rads. thanks for the reply

 

@XPOTRPR ??

 

Out of curiosity, how are you reading your temps? Scan gauge? Ultra gauge? Analog or Digital Gauge?

Are you on stock gears with your 33's?

 

Scanguage II

 

I run a similar setup to you on my 2005 with over 200k miles. I had an issue about 30k miles ago similar to you with high trans temps and high engine temps. For me it turned out I had a issue with a head gasket leaking. Temps were about 10-15 degrees higher then normal all around. I'm also using a scan gauge. So I had to replace the head gaskets and rebuilt the head (just because) and also threw in a B&M trans cooler and did a trans service.

I would definitely do a bigger trans cooler. You can also look into an aux fan that you can control with a switch.

 

I would hope I don't have a head gasket issue this early in the game.. but I will keep it in mind. the better aftermarket trans cooler seems to be a consensus as far as possible assistance and not very expensive. aux fans were a thought as well, but don't want to block more air flow when they are off.

 

I think I am going to pop my scanguage out of my truck and throw it into my fathers 2015 DCSB OR all stock and see what his temps run after driving it around in these temps.

 

out of curiosity, what did that all cost you as far as the repairs? you do it all yourself?

 

Ahh, missed that. This changes a lot. Yeah, probably have to burb the system. When I filled mine, I disconnected the coolant hose that runs to the TB. Get some paper towels under it, pulled it for a few seconds. If you don't hear anything, you are ok. If you hear some bubbling, that was your problem. You should be ok after that. Recheck fluid levels and top off as needed.