Identifying Smart Key Master vs Slave/Secondary fob

I picked up my brand new 16 tacoma yesterday and the sales person made it known that if I lost either of my smart key (push button start) fobs, the on I want to lose is the one he showed me as the "slave" or "secondary" fob. He said that losing the "master" fob would result in needing both fobs re-programmed.

Is there anyway to tell which is the master vs slave fob if there's no markings on them and they've been switched around?

Pic for reference. (not my fob, but an identical sample from another Smart Key thread):

 

They are the same. Bro works at a Toyota dealer. They can create your key with the VIN. Toyota Registers the FOBs.

 

Your salesman is wrong. There is no 'master' key. You can easily get a new fob by providing Toyota with a VIN.

 

Both very reassuring. The salesman had been wrong with some details about the truck prior to this, so it doesn't surprise me that this was also not accurate. Just wanted to make sure. Thanks for the quick responses!

 

No offense to car sales people, but in my experience they jump around brand to brand w/o any real training. They are there to move product - not find out all the intimate details of what they are selling.

The only cars salesman worth a damn would show you a business card with their name printed on them. Most sales guy jumps around so much, they never get a real business card--just a generic store card with their name scribbled on it.

 

This would be true for traditional keys, not smart keys. They have black keys which are masters and valet keys witch are sub keys. You cannot program off a sub key

 

The key fobs are husband and wife. The wife holds the husbands balls in her purse.