Mid Travel BS 2.0

Funny you guys are on this topic. I'm about to do a custom mount on my 2nd gen. 2.5" X 12" Kings, smooth body, under the bed. Maybe 14" travel. I am doing some base measurements tonight and then ordering shocks. I know a 14" will fit under the bed with SOA because the up travel is limited.

Will be a combo of plate and tube work on the hoop. I have SCS wheels with 4.3" BS. Gunna do a lot of testing and probably a redesign or two in order to make it as tight as I can. We will see what kind of spacing I have when its all said and done. Keepin it SOA with my Deaver J66 pack. Might mess with some longer shackles too in order to get full use of the shock. I will hopefully have a full write up over the next month. The 2.0" X 12" is better than nothing, but I have a heavy foot and want a shock that will keep up. I run the OE 2.5" Icons now and it's not bad. Don't need full LT but want to max out what is there.

 

Getting big country customs in abbotsford bc Canada to do the install. They just finished or are close to finishing a 4 link second gen

 

Curious to see you use all the 14s on OEM length leafs. I personally dont think the j66 pack even with 5" flipped shackles will be able to use 14s fully under the bed. I think you could probably fit the 14 under there, but its not going to fully cycle.

A set of 63s from what im seeing out of @SMKYTXN rig, can definitely use the 14s and then some. That maybe the mod that you should look into honestly.

By all means though, please give it a shot. I was going down this road and found that the most my Deavers were going to cycle is 12" with the rear leaf clip bolts removed and thats with flipped and 5" shackles.

So for this work, please post pics when you get it done. Good luck

Good stuff! Exciting times indeed.

 

Ya I unbolted my Icon lowers and was messing with the leafs today. Your right on, leafs maybe have 1" more travel. Not worth all the work for an extra inch. I need to rethink some things. Wanted to avoid moving the front leaf mounts... Trying to stay somewhere in the middle of custom but not crazy. May not have that choice with this rear suspension. Toyota did some goofy stuff with this leaf design...

 

Perhaps Start looking at 63s with relocation and flipped shackles. I think @EddyRRT also has that setup. You dont need to bastard a used pack, i think its skyjacker that makes a new 63pack.

Nate has a full writup on the 63s, great place to start.

 

@iJonny yeah I'm pretty stoked! Along with the shock relocation doing icon bumps, shackle flip, rear frame plate with new cross member ( somewhat like yours), spindle, cam tab, UCA gusset, engine cross brace, solid motor mounts, motor mount gussets, new body mount bushings, arp wheel studs all 4 corner, and my arb twin air compressor, along with front and rear limit straps and a CMC. Going to be broke as he'll after this but I'm stoked

 

A lot of work in reinforcement, surprised you didn't do the cross brace. But that's probably after the hoop and everything else.

 

Oops I wrote shock hoop was supposed to be engine cross brace Will edit that post

 

Is the +2 kit next?

 

It was going to be the solo +2 kit but I ended up getting some DK stock length lowers since the canadian dollar at the time (and still right now) sucks ass so didn't want to pay almost double for the kit.. Plan is to eventually get the 2+ and go to 36's or 37's but that's in the distant future. For now just make it as strong as I can and beat the hell out of it

 

Now that I've overspent on a stock length LCA. I don't want the lower uniball nut to loosen like some LT people have had. I plan to loctite it, should I drill a hole and throw a cotter pin in there as well? Or loctite and be good.

Bought the TC race arms

 

What was the final price if you dont mind me asking?

 

Red loctite bro

 

im going to bathe the bolt in it.

 

$1,748.56 shipped

 

So here is the story with those lower uniball bolts, it happens to almost everyone...probably everyone but not everyone notices. When uniballs are new they are super stiff, they can't fight the force of the suspension so they break in with that motion but simply turning the wheel doesn't put enough force on them to break them in in that rotation as quickly. So, when they are new and stiff and you turn the wheel the bolt turns - not the uniball ...and since the whole truck is bearing down on that bolt that nut is pinned to the bottom of the uniball...then when you turn the steering wheel you losen the nut.

I actually would not recommend red loctite unless you never want to remove that bolt again or are completely cool with having to put a torch on your uniball and destroy the Teflon lining just to remove that nut. Just let it break in, retighten it or check it every couple of days when it is new.

 

this is why i posted to ask. Thanks! Ill check it every other day to maintain the torque until it doesnt seem to loosen anymore.

 

I just bought a large thing of blue loctite, Sam, we can bath it in that

 

you could also drill the bolt for some safety wire

 

You can break red without heat...yes it takes more force but that's it.