Apex/Cali Raised - LED and Mount Group Buy - CLOSED

Yep... Up in the morning at the break of day.

Fun times.

 

Received my light today. Waited until almost dark then took everything outside and hooked it up to test that it was working. That light is some bright. I held it in my hands and moved up, down and around. Had a jet almost land on the road in front of my house thinking I was signaling it in for a landing. I avoided pointing it at my neighbors house since I like them.

Thanks Chris. Looking forward to getting it installed.

 

You are one funny man!!! I read this right as I was walking out the door from my day (well night right now) job, it was good!

 

And that's a wrap... Got it in and truck put back together. PITA trying to get them little screws started.

 

Looks awesome!!!! Yes getting the bolts started is the hardest part of the whole install. Good way to start my morning seeing another badass truck with my parts on it. Thank you for sharing!!!!

 

Got mine mounted!

 

Everything works great!

Question though. I didn't hook up the red with yellow strip next to the black wire yet my Mictuning switch is illuminating and won't cut off the illumination. What did I do wrong?

 

http://apexfabworks.com/shop/tacoma-2nd-stealth

Is that the combo you are referring to?

 

That is the one! It is still $55 off retail if you purchased the LED and mount separate at full retail.

 

https://youtu.be/XSzcKRmtYX8

My LEDs are doing some crazy stuff on this video.

 

I'm confused here.

 

People be scrambling for that mod, lol... Driving led's doing the worm,
errr maybe centipede would be better term

 

Well got my 4D installed Sunday with the Apex brackets. Was not to bad to install.
Left screw started right in but the right one wasn't having any of it. After about 10
minutes and a couple regroups is started.

Did a backwoods shady shadetree mechanic install of the wire harness though, lol.
Wanted to get it all working and didn't have enough time to install harness
good so I routed along fender and tied stuff up and ran the switch down between the fender
and frame at the left door hinge and self adhesed it to the frame, lol. Open door, push
button, light on.
Of course that is only till I get the time to do it right.

I forgot too there was someone on the forums who hooked the harness to
a different relay so when say the fogs are tuned on the light bar would turn
on? I was thinking of doing it so when I turned fogs on the
bar would turn on. Did end up getting a dash switch so will be going
that route I think.

 

Haha I did a temp install on my wife's 4Runner with the switch still under the hood. I drove it like that for 6 months... Hahah

 

Finally got around to doing my install. Brackets are solid as heck, install is a PITA, but you guys know all of that. However, I wanted to drop a line about the wiring: specifically the action of the relay. I wanted to do my install where the lights would only work if the ignition was on...I forget to turn things off sometimes. In doing that, I needed to trace the wires back to the relay. Now, a normal relay is:

Pin 30: 12V from battery
Pin 85: Ground
Pin 86: To Switch
Pin 87: To Lights

Switch:
Pin 1: 12V with Fuse
Pin 2: Wire to Pin 86 on Relay
Pin 3: Ground
Pin 4 (Mictuning): Power from dash

(Sometimes 85/86 are switched... no big deal)

The whole point of the relay is to handle higher load (and not burn up your switches). Back in the day, I had an '84 Toyota that I wired without one and melted every lighted switch I had. Today, most of the LED products don't draw much, so there is less resistance to melt the switch. However, it seems every harness I've looked at (Caliraised and OPT7) are jumping the 12V to the switch to power the light in the switch. There is no resistor in there, so basically the relay is doing nothing.

I opted to power my switch from the fuse box on IGN 2, and remove the jumper from the 12V source. The OPT7 switch is a 10 amp switch, but the relay is 40...and wired direct. Based on the wire size of the Caliraised, I can't imagine it would handle 10a based on the wire size.

Again, I'm sure the wiring is just fine, but if we do the math on the light...(60 LED's at 3W each)= 180w/12v= 15amp . Thus, you're over amperage right there, and those tiny wires they add to the switch are piggybacked to the raw 12V coming off the battery, and will create resistance and heat. Your mileage may vary, but FYI just in case.

 

Wow about 90% of that went over my head haha. It sounds like some good points and I get what you are saying. I wish I know more about wiring so I could contribute. Thanks for sharing though, good info for sure!

And ya getting those bolts in... Good thing you only have to do it once!

 

Got my light bar installed this evening. Wasn't that bad getting the bolts in, just got one side in then went to the other. Had to cut about 3 foot of the harness down to get to look nice, but glad there was more rather than less.

 

Lol, I hope I get mine done up before that amount of time.

 

That is what I am definitely going to do. Cut off a lot of the extra length of harness.
No reason to have all that extra balled up under the hood or dash.

This is the switch I bought

 

Just need to have that Jeep changed to a truck!