Need some help from you wiring guru's!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011KZE1B2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

That will work.

 

Okay so if i run 12v power to that fuse panel what gauge wire should I use, and what kind of fuse should I put between the panel and the battery if any? Also, since it is all hot lines from the fuse panel, I just run from the panel to the accessory and then ground it correct?

 

but if down the road i decide to use that aux panel for other things like an inverter shouldn't it be beefier?

 

By the way thank you guys all so much for the help, you're awesome. I love this forum, I can't tell you guys how much stuff I have learned on here.

 

That fuse block is rated at 100a. 30a per circuit. For 100a, 4awg will do. But I doubt you'll max out that fuse block, so I would run 6awg

 

I believe @TRDinOhio was referring to the wire run from the fuse block to your device switch.

 

I believe it is 100 amps unless you have the tow package then it is 130 amps.

 

The battery is capable of all the amps ever. It will give you as little as you need or give you all that it has.

 

Go to E-Bay Offroad Arsenal store they have all sort of switches for your Toyota. They have the ones that fit in your dash slots and light up just like the rest of your dash lights.

 

Roger that. So we'll say 10ga from battery to fuse panel. And 16 from panel to accessories. Do i need a fuse between the panel and the battery?

 

Yes, I would run a fuse or a circuit breaker. I have a circuit breaker from oreillys. It makes it easy to remove power to the whole fuse block if you need to work on it.

 

Not necessary but it is good to have for further protection. You might also consider a 12v circuit breaker instead of the fuse.

 

Not sure if this has been covered yet, as I just skimmed the thread. I did notice you said it requires 5v. That means you can't just cut the wires and hardwire it as it would then get 12v. I'd imagine it's similar to many GPS's in that there's something built into the actual plug that drops it down from 12v to 5v. That's why there are specific gps hardwire kits with the voltage dropper built in.

 

Yes, a power supply is provided with the booster. Cig lighter adapter

 

Right, but if I read correctly earlier someone was just saying snip the wires and hard wire it, which is a bad idea.

 

Like

Asdomo 12V-24V DC Circuit Breaker Trolling Motor Auto Car Marine Boat Bike Stereo Audio Inline Fuse Inverter Waterproof with Manual Reset 60A 60 Amp

this? And now that I think I have my head wrapped around this mostly, using an aux fuse panel is there anyway to make it so that this will cut out with the ignition off?

 

snip the wires between the cig adapter and the power supply right? Have to keep that supply on there to change voltage, no?

 

I'm assuming that the voltage changer (for lack of a proper term) is built into the piece that plugs into the cigarette lighter, because that's how it is on GPS's. If that's the case, you don't want to just snip it.

 

If you put the aux fuse block in the engine bay, 10 gauge wire should be fine to feed it power (if it's a single source connection, some blocks have in/out connectors for each fuse in which case you only really need to feed a wire big enough for the amps on that circuit). For a load that's using 5V/2.5A with the converter to drop the volts, even 16ga wire is more than you'd really need since it'll be drawing around 1A at 12V (put a 5A fuse on that circuit for safety), but 16ga is easy to find, and dirt cheap so there's not much to be gained by stepping down from there.

Only thing about running direct off the battery is that you'll be drawing down when the truck is parked. If you're looking to mount inside the cab, using an add-a-circuit off the fuse block for this has the dual benefit of making sure the gadget isn't on when you're not running, and relieves you of the hassle of having to route through the firewall - not super difficult, although gettting a wire through the grommet by the steering column can be a bigger pain that it might be worth to you. That would then leave you just needing to use an in-line fuse if/when you add the inverter and you don't have to worry about mounting an extra fuse block for just a couple gadgets.

From what I've been able to find, the blank spots in the factory fuse block aren't powered at all, and you'd need to crack open the block to change that; definitely not worth the hassle.