OBA -> On Board Air Mega Thread & BS

Hose storage idea. Pvc tubing and...I forget the name of those rubber coated wire wraps.

 

Probably a better place to ask my questions on OBA.

I'm looking to mount a single ARB compressor in a cubby in the back of my 4Runner. They are similar to the cubbies in the bed of the tacoma.

I want to mount it in the one opposite this one since it is clearly full, but the one on the right is the same size. You get the feel.


I'd like to use it to run an air locker for sure and air up my tires. I'd also like to run it to a 2 gallon tank where my spare was before I got a full size since I have a swing out coming.

My questions are:

Will a single compressor be able to charge a tank well enough to use air tools? Will it take forever to charge the tank?

Will the tank make it so that I don't have to run the compressor while the locker is engaged? I don't really want to deal with the loud compressor while wheeling. I'd like to be able to charge the tank to 150 and have that power my lockers.

Thanks in advance guys!

 

You'll want a 100% duty cycle compressor to run air tools. Like the ARB twin, or Viair 100% duty cycle.

Yes a tank will let you run locker without the compressor turning on and off.

2 gallons isn't gonna be a lot of air for filling tires or running air tools. I have 1.5 gallons.

My tank fills off of my

$127 smittybilt 2780 smittybilt AIR COMPRESSOR 2.54CFM - SB2780

smittybilt 2780 in about 3 mins to 150psi. It might top off the tank once in a weekend, if the temps fluctuate a lot.

ARB recommends something like 80-100psi for lockers so I have a regulator plumbed off my tank specifically for the locker set to 90psi.

 

How is airing up tires with the 1.5 gallon tank?

 

You get a slight boost on the first one but the rest of the air time the compressor is running. Our general size tires hold ~22 gallons. It takes me about 10mins to fill all 4 tires from 20 psi to 40 psi. 265/75/16

Tire air volume calculator http://bndtechsource.ucoz.com/index/tire_data_calculator/0-20

 

Thanks for the help! Looking forward to starting this project

 

Glad I could help! There's lots of info in here about all different types of setups. Also get yourself some Loctite 545 thread sealant and don't fuss with Teflon tape! Check out the "products discussed" at the bottom for all sorts of goodies!

 

I have a tank and the compressor never goes on with the locker. I have a 75/100 pressure switch

 

Do this!!! I was so close to scrapping the oba set up due to extreme leaks! Wouldn't hold pressure at all.tjis cured everything And I have zero leaks. Lots of spots for leaks too on the tank. Manifold and front/rear disconnects

 

Wish you were up here so I could see your set up. What size tank?

 

I thought you would pop in when I said that!

 

2 gallon tank

 

I need to do this. I have the tank and the compressor.

 

Got the onboard air finished, Works great.

Started on converting the stock denso a/c compressor over to onboard air.


Pulled the a/c condensor, drier, and lines out.



Salvaged the factory lines to help handle the heat coming from the compressor. Low pressure line took a 5/8 to 3/8 barb adapter. High pressure took a 1/2 to 3/8 barb adapter.




Also pulled the passenger side glove box to get to the a/c evaporator to remove it and gain access to the high/low pressure switch.



Toyota uses a single switch to measure both the low pressure cut off as well as the high pressure cut off (per fsm)



Going to cut the connector off and use the two wires to wire in the cut off pressure switch for the air line pressure. 90psi on - 120psi off. This should allow full use of the factory a/c button to turn on the compressor.



The rest of the parts I pieced together. (Oil mister, seperator, pressure release valve, check valve, etc.)

Cleaned up the factory lines from the compressor. These are good to keep in order to help with the heat coming from the compressor.


From there the intake side has a small air filter and then a drip oiler/mister to keep the pump lubricated.


Output side has roughly 4ft of hose before it enters the oil seperator /regulator.


From there it goes to the manifold. In order (pressure switch (90 on 120 off) high pressure line with check valve, plug, pressure line for the in dash air guage, quick coupler, then finally high pressure output to the tank.)


Tank fittings, driver side.


Tank fittings, passenger side.


2.5 gallon tank mounted on the "low" rib sections of the bed. Added 1/2" spacers on the driver side for drainage.


Finally the hose terminates at the rear bumper with another quick coupler.


Area behind the dash and glove box where the a/c evaporator was mounted. Also where one of the grommets where used to run the pressure switch wires off the factory a/c pressure switch harness. And to run the line for the pressure guage.


Gauge mounted, back light wired, and hose attached.


Power was tapped from the factory glove box light.


This is the factory end that connects to the original wire harness to run the a/c pressure switch which is now attached at the viair pressure switch on the manifold.


A/c evaporator box mounted back of minus the actual evap core. Factory pressure switch connector re-attached.


Final product, gauge mounted.


For oiling, these denso units are recommended to run PAG 46 oil.
Reference from this page. http://www.aa1car.com/library/pagoil.htm
Tacoma 95-04 V6 at least use the Denso 10P.


Loctite 545 for all fittings, expensive but great stuff.




Since this was wired into the factory harness, enabling the factory a/c automatically kicks up the idle.

 

Very nicely done. Almost identical to the setup I installed on my old crawler, except I used a similar-design Sun Performance tank.
Is there a pop-off relief valve somewhere ? I didn't catch that.

 

Thank you, and yeah 150psi pop-off installed on the tank.

 

My VIAIR 440P has a max amperage of 40 Amps. It's running 10 AWG wire with the current red & black alligator clamp set up.

I want to run a line from the battery to the cubby where it'll be mounted in the bed.
My question is am I still good running 10 gauge wire from the battery to the truck bed?
Also-- for those who have done this, how many feet did you need & where did you find the best deal on the wiring?

Last question... did you all go with oxygen free copper (OFC) or copper clad aluminum (CCA). I know OFC is preferred but I was wondering what this threads' consensus is

Thanks in advance!

 

Based on this chart, looks like for that long of a run, 8ga is the minimum.

 

EWCS
4 AWG Premium Extra Flexible Welding Cable 600 VOLT - BLACK - 25 FEET - EWCS Branded - Made in the USA!

$26.90 prime shipping.

Super good deal. I used it in my install.

 

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