Colorado B.S. Thread

I averagearound 17 when I drive 75. When I drive to moab I get 18-20 that is with full armor and bumpers.

 

The problem is the addition of "fuel management systems" that serve to waste more fuel in the quest for less emissions. Sure, there is less crap out the pipe, but it had to burn a lot of fuel to get it clean.

 

I see your point, but I think you missed it too. Modern engines with computer technology and lightweight, aerodynamic body's wrapped around them are getting shit for mileage compared to yesterdays refrigerators on wheels.

 

I got your point for sure and I agree with you. But i was taking more of a "no fucks given" kind of stance. Hell my truck is far from aerodynamic with all the shit on it now. So there is another -1 for my fuel efficiency. If BIG OIL didn't have it hands in everything government, then we could easily achieve 50+MPG's with distilled water, baking soda, and electricity.








Note - If in 24hrs no one has heard from me it's because I publicly mentioned BIG OIL and I have now "disappeared"!

 

Irony.
Better fuel economy means actually burning less gas to achieve the same task. Right?
So burning 1 gallon to go 30 miles is better than burning 1 gallon to go 17 miles. Right?
But there may be some carbon out the pipe, as the internal combustion is not 100% efficient. Fact.

So in the ass backwards quest to clean up the pipe emissions, engineers had to mount crap on the motor to "dilute" the emissions. Yep, it's true. The solution to pollution is dilution. It didn't go anywhere, it was just spread out better. Like farting in an elevator as opposed to farting outside.

And the end result is the motor has to work harder to dilute and therefore burns more fuel.

Now today's motors don't have the 80's era smog pumps anymore, thank god. But there is still some dilution going on and things running off the engine to make the pipe seem clean. And a whole lot more points of failure because of it. As well as loss of horsepower.
and with all this new tech, you would think they would get better mpg's, or at least the same as an old Buick odd fire V-6.

My old '65 Chevy had like 6 wires give or take that was needed to start and run the thing. Didn't have to label shit to pull the motor. Foot to the floor with a shit eating grin, still got low 20's.

Yep, I'm slow at work and bored. I'll step away from the computer now.

 

'65 Chevy? Did you calculate the 'low 20's' mpg with your slide rule? No way we can trust such calculations.

 

Farts

 

.

I did it with my fingers, like this
old school like.

 

On the other hand, my '64 Jeep CJ6, with the 134ci F-Head (not a flat head) Hurricane 4 cyl, would get about 9-12 mpg. Had a top speed of 50 mph though.
With a 7 gallon fuel tank, you had to stay close to home.

 

Damn you are old. I have heard of all of the things you mentioned.... somewhere in history books!

 

Does this give me Great Gramps status?

 

I usually drive quite slow on acceleration, but i think i saw 17-18mpg one time when it was stock and new, downhill from there.

My 02 Tahoe and 05 Silverado pushing around a bigger un aerodynamic block with the 5.3 v8 were both always 17 or above.

Friends new tundra gets 17-18 with the v8... The only excuse is Toyota DGAF.

 

Don't forget to add 7% to your calculated mpg if you're running 285s with an uncorrected speedo

 

Mediocre Gramps at best.

 

I think he would be happy with a Dirty Gramps title

 

I wish that was the issue...

 

So, if I wanted to add more shit to the roof to decrease my MPG to 10 or so...

$160 Renogy 100W 12V Solar Panel Starter Kit, 100 Watt Monocrystalline Solar Panel, 30A LCD PWM Charger Controller, Adaptor Kit, Tray Cables, Z Brackets for RV, Camper, and Other Off Grid Applications

https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Watts-Volts-Monocrystalline-Starter/dp/B00BFCNFRM/

Any input on that? Now that its hotter, the battery voltage even with the group 31 agm is dropping a little with the fridge running all the time.

Second part of the question is would I need a special extension cable since I would probably mount it under the Prinsu over the cab, and the only way to get the wire down to the battery would be either down the side of the windshield (not what I want to do), or drop between the cab and topper, under the truck then up to the battery, but that adds about 33 feet of wire.


Edit, I remembered that MPPT was better than the other kind, what if I paired these

Tracer MPPT Tracer1210RN Solar Charge Controller Regulator 12/24V INPUT 10A

https://www.amazon.com/Tracer-Tracer1210RN-Charge-Controller-Regulator/dp/B008KWPGS6

Renogy Solar Panel, Single

https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Watts-Volts-Monocrystalline-Solar/dp/B009Z6CW7O

 

Looks very interesting.

I wouldnt want to run it down the windshield either. According to the product description it comes with a 20ft adapter kit that goes from the panel to the charge controller. Then and 8ft tray cable from the charge controller to battery, so you would be pretty close. You would probably want to come back up and into the cab so the controller would be inside and then out through the firewall to the battery.