Long Travel BS Thread

lookin at front bumps.. was lookin at fox since they are a tad cheaper, 2.0.. 3" stroke (which i believe is a shortened 4") since i will want to bump off the top eventually once the engine cage is built

 

Yeah, it sucks that the coating doesn't fully protect them. I was told on my first truck to coat the Bilsteins with WD-40 after every wash. A few washes went by without WD-40 and saw no difference. We hardly ever have snow here, so there's no road salt and all the local off roading spots cover all terrains of Baja, but again with no salt. So I stopped doing any preventive protection on the Billies and never did any with the Tacoma's SAWs. Took 5 years to bite me in the butt though.

 

You're always gonna get corrosion, faster in areas with salt content (near the beach or salted roads), as I said before, once corrosion starts, theres no quick fix to get rid of it, you have to sand it/scrub it off and then coat it with something that inhibits corrosion. Once you've got corrosion you can spray stuff on it to stop it from getting worse, but it'll always be there. I deal with this crap at work all the time, old ass oil refinery, EVERYTHING is rusted. When we get new valves/pipes in I always hound the higher ups to get them coated and actually had to get permission to do minor maintenance on some stuff. (When I first got there I was told I wasn't allowed to do any maintenance whatsoever because I'd be 'stealing' a union brothers job, and then when a minor valve leak turned in to shooting steam over the course of 6 months because nobody came to look at it, I got permission from my boss 2 bosses up to fix stuff like that since I have experience in it from the navy) Point being, oxygen is corrosive, even if you clean the things up every day, its gonna find a way.

Example: my SA 1911, I keep it in a locked case in my room with some desiccant in the case and it's always put away oiled up...left it out once for 2 days after going to the range so I could clean it...found a liiiitttle spot of corrosion forming on the upper part...son of a B

 

We use acf50 and corrosion x religiously on the helicopter especially before we go fly retardent which is extremely corrosive to aluminum, if it's good enough for a 25 million dollar helicopter is good enough for a lil truck shock lol

 

I like it

 

Haven't got my VSC calibrated yet, but does anyone else's VSC kick in going around curves and getting some body lean going on? I'm guessing VSC needs recalibration, but holy shit it's almost put me in to the wall a few times

 

Whats vsc?

 

Vehicle stability control

 

Volcom sucks cock

 

Rrrrrreally ? 15,000 posts on this forum and you've never seen the 19,324 threads about VSC that describe the exact same thing

 

Nope. Never had an issue with it until now lol

 

Unplug an abs sensor, if u have a manual your speedo will still work( runs off the transfer case) abs sucks ass anyway

 

Yeah I'm about to do an ABS switch prob this weekend

 

My VSC is crazy whenever I have my ABS sensor plugged in. I have the recalibration PDF saved somewhere but never tried it.

IIRC same applies to auto 4x4 right? Because 90% of the time I am driving the truck with the ABS unplugged and speedo has always worked.

 

I love that psychotic fab runs an 8-1. So bad ass.



https://www.instagram.com/p/BHVMN-ZBy3A/

 

no clue probably 3 months for his. got 4 matching bump stops and 16" triples also so definitely a good chunk of stuff

 

Well here it is guys the finished product of my bedcage from the original pictures its been upgraded quite a bit and the weak point that was discussed was beefed up. now i just need the shocks to be re-valved cause they are stiff as a dick.

 

Anyone know how good 550# springs run on LT. Im getting a camburg kit and my buddy offered to trade my 700# king springs for his 550# springs. I know people usually run 600# springs on LT usually, I just dont know the difference.

 

Anyone wanna trade for a 1st gen...lol.....