Secondary air injection switching valve.......?

Not sure where people are getting the idea of new pumps being more reliable. My 2015 pump went out at 7,800. How much newer can it get?

 

Good question

 

Exactly my thoughts^^

 

over the wait with Toyota taking there sweet time to call me back.
bought the bypass to get me on the road again. If a recall or warranty extension comes into play in the next couple years I'll be taking this off and heading to the dealer for a repair then throwing this back on afterwards so either way I would have bought it
http://hewitt-tech.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=44

once I am done with these exams I'll have more free time and I will go set up shop at the dealership with a lunch box full of food and some waters all day complaining until they fix it

 

I sent @hewitt-tech an email asking about this module, no response yet. I want the P011B gone ..

 

my email response from Paul last week when I asked him about your problem and the P011B code because I didn't want to purchase if I was going to get another code:

"We did have customers buy our V35 units for their 08 or newer before we came out with our V50 units. We initially had a disclaimer about the P011b temperature correlation code for the newer vehicles before we just completely stopped listing them that way and would only sold them for 08 and newer after that if you called or emailed and confirmed you understood the P011b issue was a possibility.

That has all been taken care of though and the V50 units were developed specifically for the 08 and newer vehicles so they don’t have that problem.

If you have any other questions just let us know."

 

Subscribed.

 

Guess that's the route I will go, but I did not see any disclaimer about the P011B code for sure.

 

Hello all, great discussion and very informative! I found this site while researching the codes P2440 & P2442 on my 2012 Tacoma. I am disappointed that many Tacoma owners are experiencing the same issue. My truck has been great up until now. My story is similar- the check engine and traction control off lights came on one day, the truck became very sluggish and a local shop retrieved the codes which indicate an issue with the secondary air injection switching valve stuck bank 1 and 2. I took my truck to the dealer where I bought it and was informed that, at 75K miles and 3+ years, the issue was not under warranty but I should contact Toyota Customer Support to inquire about an exception. I contacted Toyota directly but they would not authorize any work or parts. After a couple of weeks of phones calls, visits to the local dealer, a $2300 repair quote and tons of frustration, I decided to repair the truck myself.
I found the Diverter Valves at: http://toyotaparts.bochtoyotasouth.com/auto-parts/ Search: 2012>Toyota>Tacoma>(select your truck)>EMISSION SYSTEM>A.I.R. SYSTEM
I received the Diverter Valves (Part Number 25710-31022) but the valves came pre-attached to a larger metal block which bolts on to the engine. On the engine, the metal block has two metal hoses connected which will be very difficult to remove. Attached are the images of the new valves. I am looking for any suggestions or recommendation on whether to install the entire new block with the valves, or just install the new valves. Thanks all

 

If your valves are stuck open / closed just replace the valves and see where it gets you. Or since you already bought the parts just replace it all.

 

Thanks for the advice Large. I think you're correct- I may as well replace the entire thing now and be done with it.

 

Just replace the whole assembly, not much harder. Mine came the same way yourshe did, 30 min I was done and code free.

Seems like everyday I check the forum someone new has chimed in with this issue, you listening yet Toyota, how about you Swears?

 

Sub'd! My lights came on today. 2012 DCSB TRD 62k. Dammit.

 

Got my bypass kit in the mail today and ready to install.

Finally lost my $hit with Toyota corporate on the phone today...needless to say, they THINK I am trading my truck in for a Ford this weekend on all these July 4th sales. At least my case is documented.

Everyone needs to call up Toyota and open a case whether they want to try to get reimbursed or not. They will never offer up anything if they don't have enough complaints.

Hoping my buddy buys a 2012 Tacoma under 36,000 miles so he still has warranty and then I am going to pull out all his parts, throw mine in and take his truck in to get them replaced lmao

 

pretty smart move, I just went ahead and bought a new valve assembly .. will probably buy the new bypass anyway just so i don't have to deal with this shit again

 

Even get a sweet keychain flashlight and pen

 

Well I didn't ... but I did order mine a while back ..

 

NEED HELP guys, those of you that have installed the bypass kit:

I have been at this install for over 3 hours mainly just fumbling with these block off plates, I can't seem to find any picture of how they look installed because they just don't seem to be sitting flush so everything goes back nice and tight (seems like there will be big time leaks) do any of you guys have any pics of how these plates look installed? I really need to get this done so I can drive. Also do the stock bolts seem rather short? It seems like the top 2 on the valves (after a plate is behind it) aren't long enough to "catch" and when they do I tighten them just a bit and they strip every time. Any help asap would be great. The instructions that came with the kit just aren't cutting it for me as far as this plate install I need to see real pics.

Thanks!

 

Gonna take some pics in a minute.

 

I got it! Just must have been the heat I was thinking stupid and thought the plates went behind the actual valves lmao! After I went inside frustrated and cooled off in the AC and looked at the diagram pics again I clearly see that I was being stupid....fail