Long Travel BS Thread

I cant think of the term, I dont mean the rod ends I mean the coilover mounting plates that you bolt your coilover too, some people call them "top hats". For example when I had swayaways I had different mounting plates because the overall length of saws is shorter so the mounting plate compensated for that. I got new ones from TC for the fox coilovers that are shorter, so im wondering if those same ones are fine for kings (I have a feeling they are).

If I pick them up Ill be rebuilding, revalving, putting a 90 degree fitting, and 600#springs.

 

Please tell me my solution to this isn't f'ing difficult. I need my resi outputs to go 90° downward to clear much uca and allow me to raise my shock collars to get the correct ride height to get good camber angles to get good alignment to not fuck up my brand new tires to not f'ing ride like a shit storm and fly off the road on street bumps. I know it's a run on sentence intentionally. If I release the nitrogen, can I take off and insert a fitting on my shock to allow the residual tube to go down without taking apart the whole shock? I've been told no, that you'll have to take apart the shock. Can someone please she'd more light on this. Being pissed and complaining about the so called experts who told me to do it this way that have built 20+ Tacoma's isn't going to help me right now. But f'ing WHY, WHY WOULD YOU HAVE MY SHOCKS CLOCKED THIS WAY! I've known it was wrong once I built the front but it has worked so far like I have it. I want it right. What do I do?

 

I answered that question. If you have a 2wd truck and the top caps that are flush with the threaded body and are not cap over then those coilovers, can probably be adjusted to work with you your top hats might work.

If you have 4wd then the rod ends are too short and won't clear your axles

 

You should be able to use a regular socket screwdriver handle thing to adjust those without removing or doing anything

 

On my rear coilovers, the fitting has a jam nut you can loosen. Then clock the fitting to whatever angle suits you and tighten the jam nut again.

 

There is not enough clearance on the fitting to go up and over the shock collars. Thats my problem is that I can only put my collar up so far then it hits the resi outputs.

 

Sorry I missed this, I have 3" bumps in stock. PM for your price

and yes they are just a shortened 4"

 

You might just wanna get an inch shorter spring at the same rate.

 

Hmm idk. I had the same fittings and I was able to put the collar all the way up

 

You probably have a tad longer output piece that would allow you to go 90 down. Mine is so short I cannot go down with them

 

You will need to full disassemble the shocks if you want/need to change the fittings. I can do it for you, I'm in Thornton, maybe 30 minutes from you.

 

Yeah man. I'm definitely interested in that. My driver side started leaking quite a bit of oil when I was trying to align it better. Sucks.

 

i have a similar problem cause my shock reservoir line rubs my coil spring and i need to rotates the fitting but when i tried it started squirting shock fluid so i tightened it and said fu*& it

 

I had a similiar issue and hose being being hit by the UCA. My King's have pipe thread so they couldn't just be clocked I had to buy all new fittings and resi hoses to reconfigure it similiar to how Fox's come :

 

@TimF I will pm you soon. Really cool that you can help me out locally and not have to do something crazy to get this done. Thanks guys for the feedback.

 

heres a little teaser of my bedsides on they are fiberwerx 4.5" did all the mounting my self still have specialty tailights i madethat i need to wire up im going to install soon

 

What front kit do you have ?

 

total chaos with heimed uppers and 10" fox 2.5 coilovers