I need to change ALL my fluids!

Age is a perspective .. you just getting on the forum and tackling these issues shows you are still young at heart. Go get 'em tiger !!!

 

Do you have a link for this?

 

Oh you charmer you!

 

Sure, no worries .. was waiting for a callout.



The latest UOA is 19,000 miles and over 4-years duration .. Waiting on the report.

 

Some additional information regarding UOA.

Averages:
Both the universal and unit averages are running averages and change with the number of samples we analyze.

Elements:
Elements are quantified in the oil at parts per million levels (PPM). This list shows the most common sources of the elements in gasoline or diesel engine oil. Following each element is a description of where it comes from. They are grouped by category.

Wear Metals
Aluminum: Pistons, bearings, cases (heads & blocks).
Chromium: Rings, a trace element in steel.
Iron: Cylinders, rotating shafts, the valve train, and any steel part sharing the oil.
Copper: Brass or bronze parts, copper bushings, bearings, oil coolers, also an additive in some gasoline engine oils.
Lead: Bearings.
Tin: Bearings, bronze parts, piston coatings.
Nickel: Trace element in steel, platings on some cylinder types.

Trace Elements
Manganese: Trace element, additive in some foreign gasoline.
Silver: Trace element, some types of bearings.
Titanium: Trace wear metal.

Contaminants
Potassium: Antifreeze, additive in some oil types.
Sodium: Antifreeze (ethylene glycol), additive in some gasoline engine oils.
Silicon: Airborne dirt escaping air filtration, sealers, gaskets, sand-casted parts, and spray lubricants, antifreeze -inhibitor.

Oil Additives
Molybdenum: Anti-wear additive, some types of rings.
Boron: Detergent/dispersant additive, antifreeze inhibitors.
Calcium: Detergent/dispersant additive.
Magnesium: Detergent/dispersant additive.
Phosphorus: Anti-wear additive.
Zinc: Anti-wear additive.
Barium: Detergent/dispersant additive used in some synthetics.

Physical properties
Viscosity/Flashpoint: If fuel is present in the oil, the Viscosity and Flashpoint will often be lower than stated in the "Values Should Be" line. A high viscosity may show oil oxidation or high levels of soot. It can also show an oil additive in use.

Fuel %: Indicates the amount of volatile fuel dilution found in the oil.

Antifreeze %: Indicates the amount of antifreeze found in the oil. A question mark means we found possible traces of coolant, but not enough to definitively say it's there.

Water %: Indicates the amount of water found in the oil.

Insolubles %: Insolubles are solid materials present in the oil. They are typically free carbon from the oxidation of the oil itself, along with blow-by past the rings.

 

Only mistake I see is lack of torque setting for the bolts. If any component needs to be torqued correctly, it's the pans which are thin gauge and can deformed easily if not torqued correctly. If you cant find correct setting, 30 lbs/in (not lbs/ft) is a good setting to start with. If it leaks, go up 3 lbs/in increments. I don't agree with the glue and form-a-gasket goo, unless the pan is not straight, but then, it's best to get a new pan.

Valvoline MaxLife Dex/Merc is a good all around ATF. I have it in all my Toyota products. Covers Dex III, IV and WS. http://content.valvoline.com/pdf/maxlife_atf.pdf

Regarding a full flush on high mileage engines. There is a consensus among many mechanics NOT to do a full flush for the reasons mentioned by White Monster in post #27.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/atf.htm
I have read in other threads and BobTheOilGuy about successful flushes after doing 2-3 drain/refills and about 1K in between changes. The idea is to slowly introduce the detergent agents from new ATF. After the final drain, you do the full flush and filter change.

Here is where I will probably lose most of you. Regarding radiator flushes. I have had no issues using Walmart's SuperTech concentrate antifreeze for $10. Bottle says its for all makes/models and all colors. I've only used it for full flushes, not to top off. I've had no issues. Have over 100K on the Sienna and close to 100K on the Lexus and no coolant system issues. Changed the thermostat in the Lexus a few months ago and it looked brand new (but replaced it anyways). Use distilled water for a 50/50 mix. All this being said, it might be most helpful in your case to get a radiator flush and refill at a quickie place. My local Oil Changers charges $100 for flush and refill. Then do your own flushes after that.

 

That's really fascinating. Gonna have to rethink the oil I buy from now on. Learn something new every day I suppose. Thanks for posting that.