Need some help from you wiring guru's!

Well shit, I'm not as much help as I thought I'd be!! Sorry man. EFI No1 would probably work, but that's just speculation. You've got a few options as far as I see.

• Plug the AAC into various fuses until you get the desired effect
• Run the AAC into the cab and tap into the accessory fuse
• Buy a multimeter ($20 on Amazon) and do some digging! That'd be the most fun.

Multimeters are pretty easy to use, although I don't have one

 

Originally I was going to run into the cab but figured that's a little silly seeing as how there is a fuse panel right there lol. I think I'll just pick a random fuse and wire to it, make sure all my stuff is working properly, and then shut off the truck. If my accessories don't turn off, I'm not on a switched fuse. That should work, no?

 

Yep, that about sums it up. Pick a fuse, and if your stuff turns on and off with the truck, it'll work!! Start with the EFI, and if that doesn't work, try the IG2 main. There's a certain order in which fuses go into the add a circuit, so make sure you get it right. It should say on the box.

 

As in original fuse in the lower slot, new circuit on top?

 

Yep. In my post above, the 7.5 amp is the original, and the 5 amp is for my new accessory.

 

Awesome! Thanks a ton for the help!

 

No problem!! Sorry I couldn't help you pinpoint an exact fuse though. Did you retry your add a circuit to see if it worked?

 

No I don't have it. Like I said it's just out of curiosity. I'm at work now and I have a low profile one on order.

 

I'd probably use either A/C, MIR HTR, or DRL for the add a fuse, but check with a dmm to confirm the circuit is switched.

Running to the cab works, but it's more trouble than it's worth to pull an unnecessary wire through the firewall.

 

Thanks bmgreene! Out of curiosity, what is drl? Mir htr is mirror heaters I assume?

 

I'm assuming drl is daytime running lights, but if the 2016s use the front blinkers for that like the wnd gens did, I'm not sure why that'd have its own fuse, so you want to get confirmation on that count.

 

Another quick question. The accessory I'm going to be putting on pulls 2.5 amps at 5v. At 12v that is less than an amp, no? Can I switch that accessory directly through my new switch, or should I use a relay to turn it on and off. That's not alot of power, and I know relays are cheap, just hoping someone can shed some light.

 

Depends on what the switch can handle. I have two sets of pods wired straight from battery to switch and have no problems. It should have no problem!

 

That's what I figured just wanted to make sure. The switch is before the transformer so it will be pulling less than an amp. I figured that would be around what it takes to run a relay anyway. Thanks!

 

If you're using the converter that's showing in the Amazon ads below this thread, it's rated to run 3A at 5VDC, which would be max 15w. To be cautious, assume double that for heat losses in the converter, and you're at 30w, which is 2.5A at 12VDC. If you've got a Mictuning switch, it should be able to handle 10A at 12V, which is more than enough although your converter will be drawing more than a relay would, so I'd wire that whole circuit from the fuse block to the ground with 16ga wire and use a 10A fuse in the block.

 

Wow. When someone who knows what they are talking about it seems so simple! Why not use a 5amp fuse. Why a 10? Just curious.

 

I'd use a 10A fuse for a 3A circuit because the 3A draw is the steady draw and some kinds of devices will spike higher when starting up, so the 3A device could draw 6A for a very short amount of time (but long enough to blow a 5A fuse), and if you're using a 10A switch, then nothing in the circuit would be harmed by 10A and a short will push the local current well past 10A in an unfused circuit, so the 10A fuse is good to protect the whole circuit without blowing unneccesarily.

You could use a 7.5A fuse if you can find one, but a 5A is too close to the load level and might just blow when there's nothing wrong.

 

Working on truck. Need help. So I'm installing this whole set up that I've been talking about. Plugged my add a circuit into drl (daytime running lights? ) in the fuse box in the engine bay. Hooked up the ground, incoming power, and ignition circuit power to my relay. I have not hooked the relay into the accessory yet. When I put my voltmeter across the ignition circuit and ground I'm reading over 12.9 volts. I think I fucked up. Shouldn't that be reading 0 until the ignition is on. Only thing I can think of is that the circuit I added the fuse to isn't ignition switched. Please help!

 

If the out from the add-a-circuit is hot with the switch off, then you're not on a switched circuit. Try some different fuses until you find one that reads zero with the ignition switch at "off". If your meter has a small enough tip, you may be able to touch the test points on the fuses and read the voltage for each circuit without having to pull/swap the fuse for the add-a-circuit.

Don't forget that the system will also read 14V or so when the engine is running, and 12V or so when it's not.

 

I tried several fuse spots in that box including drl, mirror heat, and towing. All came back at 12.71 volts. I'm wondering if everything under there is always hot. May have to go inside for ignition switched circuit?