Am I wrong in wanting a 17" wheel?

If looking at OEM I'd suggest the TRD Pro/SEMA 17" wheel. Weighs 25lbs, which is only 2lbs more than the TRD OR 16" Tacoma wheel. Check the weight on the 4 runner wheels as some factory wheels can still be quite heavy.

 

I don't believe you. Give me $4000 and then I will.

 

I have looked at them,
Just not sure the design would be ok for me on my base model.
I do however like that they are 7" wide.

Cheapest set I can find is about 700 plus shipping, which is about double what I am finding the 17" 4Runner wheels for.

 

Anyone know how bad the 17" FJ steelies are?

Weight wise...

 

I would avoid steel wheels. They are very heavy, not as durable and corrode. Stick with aluminum alloy.

 

This is the 17" wheel I'm thinking about.

 

I have the 16" OEM spares on all 4 corners. Not sure on the weight but they are very durable.
If you hit a rock and slightly bend the bead, pound it out with an oak stake and caulking hammer and rattle can it, I have multiple times.

I would hate to have nice alloys and damage them, they'll never be the same after some carnage.

 

I switched up from my P rated 255/70R16 winter tires to P rated 265/70R17 Duratracs for the summer and she's hurtin a bit. Around town it still has plenty of zip but on the highway 5th gear is a little more useless than it was before. Haven't towed yet. I'm my case tire size went up nearly 2 inchs and 10ish lbs plus on each corner. So the difference was a little more drastic but it was worth it.

 

The stock steel wheels I believe weigh 32lbs. Compared with the OR wheel at 23lbs that is huge. Rotating mass is the equivalent of 4x static mass. So 4x 9lbs x4 wheels and you will be nearing the equivalent of adding an ARB plate bumper on the front of your truck. You will notice a difference in power and mpgs.

Having your steel wheels damage easily and being able to do a trail repair is not the same as very durable. Alloy wheels are significantly stronger and lighter than steelies. You also do not need to worry about rattle canning them because they will not rust.

 

If your E rated tires yield a "ride is terrible", then you're overinflating them. So many people pump tires up to the maximum printed on the sidewall, which is just plain WRONG. You need to pump them to the number printed inside the door.

I'm running LT-E's in factory size (245/75R16), and the ride is exactly the same as the P's it came with.

 

IIRC they are 29 lbs each. They are getting very tough to find.

I want to find some 16" Taco spare steelies and they seem just as difficult to find. (and I want 5)

 

I'm aware of how to inflate a tire. I can assure you that not once have my tires been pumped up to the 80 lbs listed on the sidewall.

 

While you are correct about rust, we don't have water issues here in lower CA. I didn't go with them for weight or mpg's, I did because once rattle canned flat black, you don't notice plus I don't like the maintenance associated with alloys. One rock gash and its there for the life of the wheel.

I'll have to weigh them now as I'm curious but 32lbs sounds a bit off as I handled them prior to the tire installation, I could be wrong though.

 

You want what I have... they are a cool OEM wheel IMO. It took me over a month to scrounge them up from different yards. Cool part is I now have 5 matching rims and the 4 I bought match the OEM spare color.

The Tundra's have the same spare too.

Good luck in your search.

 

I've found then at around 106 each new online, curious if my dealer would meet the price. Lol...

 

Actually the 17" TRD Pro Rims weighs 27 lbs, that is of course we are talking about this Wheel....


The 16" TRD OR wheel weighs 24 lbs

 

Does anyone know the weight of the 2016 - 16" SR Alloy Wheel?

 

Everything I have read and seen published says those weigh 25lbs.

The 16" OR wheel I was referring to was the 2nd Gen OR wheel, which weighs 23lbs. Those wheels pictured are 3rd gen.

 

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/toyo...x7-matte-gray-alloy-wheel-ptr20-35110-gr.html