General Sub Installation

Can some one tell me step by step how to install my sub into my 2008 Acess cab taco? or is there a sticky that show how to?

 

Might be helpful to know what you have and where you are wanting to install it.

 

I have a twelve inch kicker cvr. im just talkin basic wiring really. the rest is pretty self explanitory due to personal preference...

 

It's not really basic. Well...it kinda is, but we still need more info.

Is it a Dual 2 or Dual 4 (voice coil)?

If you feel like looking it up yourself, my first place to go is always www.the12volt.com

 

1.Run a fused power wire at least 8G to the amp (but the gauge depends on the AMP SIZE you are running.)

2.Then Find a spot to Attach your Ground wire directly to the unpainted metal section of the vehicle.

3.Run RCAs to your AMP from the preouts on the back of your HU (I would suggest not running them with your power wire.. just for sound quality)

4.Run a Remote wire (switched 12v) from the back of the deck or another switched 12v location (The back of the deck or HU is the most common place.)

5.Connect your speaker wires to your sub(s) from the AMP

(How you want to hook up your Subs will depend on how you connect the speaker wires. ie Bridged, Stereo, getting a certain ohm setting etc.)



6.Connect all other wires then go put the fuse in the power wire and test the system.

 

Perhaps I am being nitpicky on a forum that doesn't really care about this too much; but I would like to make some comments on this.

1. Yes, a fused power wire is needed. The fuse should be no more than 18" from the battery terminal (closer is always better). 8 awg is appropriate, but amp "size" doesn't matter. It is the current draw from the amp combined with the distance of power wire needed to reach the amplifier. Probably what you meant, but just adding some clarification because a 1000w class d amp will draw far less current than a 1000w a/b. So it is the current draw that matters in this case.
2.You are correct, and closer to the amp is best (generally less than 3' is ideal and something that connects to the frame is ideal)
3.Your suggestion of running power wire seperate from RCA's is iffy if just considering sound quality. You are exteremly unlikely (I've never seen it justified by physics) to have noise induced into the RCAs from power wire and most noise issues associated with this situation are ground wire connections not being adequate. I do typically run mine on opposite sides of the vehicle, but that is because it is generally easier to tuck and hide wires in the cable runs on either side.
4.Correct; the remote turn on is generally the blue wire from the wire harness off of an aftermarket headunit. However, if you do not have an aftermarket head unit, there are some open switched fuse slots available (just put a small 7.5 amp fuse inline with the remote lead if you use a spade connection to the fuse panel).

For Burgess let us know what the voice coil configuration is on the subs (dual 2ohm, dual 4 ohm, or something else if that is the case) and what the amp's lowest stable configuration is . (often times it is 2ohm mono, but sometimes 4 ohm mono, which can change how you wire the load.)
5.No issue here.
6. No issue here.

 

I do believe it is a four ohm. the lowst configuration is byond me though..

 

Agreed on the above... I figured if he was asking for BASIC install questions i didn't need to go into detail..

As for the power wire and RCA i just do it... I had one vehicle that did it and since then i have just always done it. you are corrent it was actually the amps ground producing sound.

Burgess - What Amp are you running model number and we can help you from there.. Are you running a single sub or dual?

 

I figured as much. I wasn't calling you out or saying anything you told him was an outright lie. Just clarifying what you had said and clearing up some misconceptions (the RCA v. noise issue).

 

i figure sometimes less clarity for newbies is better just a how to with no reasons why... they can ask if they want. we are all here to help!