Push-button garage door opener - Plug-n-play

The AOB switches do fit, but for people like me (most people out there) we have rear locker and other OEM switches in those places. Literally all 6 of my OEM spots are filled. There are other panels out there currently that do work for this application, but I don't want to knock on the OP opportunity for a product.

 

If there's already a panel, please by all means let me (and everybody else) know.
To be clear, I'm not manufacturing the faceplates... I'm ordering the ones from shapeways that another member designed/put up for sale. All I'm doing is soldering a garage door opener onto a switch, attaching appropriate wires and t-taps, and shipping it off. Not looking to make a living, just beer/mods money.

 

Depending on where you double-sided-tape the remote, you shouldn't have to remove a panel to change the battery. I'll make the wires long enough to stick it near/on the under-dash fusebox.

 

Definitely interested in this.

 

Keep in mind I was talking about the 2nd Gen, but I'm sure he will be coming out for one like it for the 3G. The @Iggy. panel, click here

 

That's pretty slick!

Well, if someone wants a garage door opener button for one of those, I'd be happy to wire it up too. Not sure if I could find one that says garage on it in that size though.

 

In Canada the Trd models have the Homelink. I wonder if the 2017 models will have the homelink in the States. If they do include it then you will have a limited market for your switches. Maybe wait till they announce the details for the 2017.

 

They already have home link here. It's only on the limited trim from the factory.

Again. I'm not putting a ton of cash into this, nor looking to get a ton of cash out of it.

Just soldering stuff together for other people in exchange for beer money and parts cost.




Also, I got a switch and opener in... Currently experimenting with mosfets/relays/connector options to find the best/smallest/cost-efficient way to wire these so that the dash lighting works, and the garage door symbol lights up on button-press.

For the genie remote, I'll be able to use a small solid-state transistor instead of a relay, but for other brands, the packaging might be quite a bit larger to facilitate a relay instead of a transistor. There's also additional cost with relays over transistors. Just as an FYI.

I should have pictures of a finished switch and installation later today.

 

Install instructions:
Start out with knee-panel removed/hanging.
(Pull up on door-sill to remove. Then remove push-nut on rear of triangle-y piece, pull triangle piece towards center console to remove. Remove 3x 10mm bolts to release knee-panel. Pull knee-panel away from dash slowly/gently, undoing each clip (there are lots).


At this point, you will either remove a switch blank, or the cubby. The switch-blank is lightly retained by clips. Push them in and push the blank out of the front of the panel. The cubby is held in with 4 phillips screws. Remove them to remove the cubby.

Switch blank rear (it's the one without wires)


Cubby Screws


Either insert the new switch from the front of the panel, or install the cubby-replacing faceplate. Should end up looking something like this:


Plug the harness(es) into the switch(es). The order isn't important if you have more than one switch. It'll all work the same.


Now, unplug the two plugs that have been holding the knee-panel up for most of the day.


Mainly, you're looking for the wire harness that hooks onto this plug:


Remove the second-set of electrical tape from the wire sheathing to access the internal wires, like so:


Install the t-taps (by setting the wire inside the metal "u" shaped part and closing them.
You will need to install a T-tap on the following colors:
Tan
White-Black

Stolen T-Tap Installation Video:



Slide the connector from the black wire of the remote harness onto the tap of the white-black wire on the switch harness.

Slide the connector from the Blue wire of the remote harness onto the tap of the tan wire on the switch harness.

Add zip-tie as shown for strain relief:

Route remote-end as shown:


Re-install knee-panel. Remote should be hanging like this:

Insert add-a-fuse into fusebox location. Put the removed fuse in the empty add-a-fuse slot, install oriented as shown. If you want the opener to function always, put add-a-fuse in thr blank power slot. If you want it to operate only with accessory power, install into an accessory switched fuse location (like shown in the picture).

Remove the backing of the command strip, and press into the side of the fuse-box for 30 seconds.



Reinstall triangle-y piece and door sill.
Final installation position of door opener:


Enjoy:

 

I'll be taking requests for a few of these as a pre-order. Prices updated.

If you'd like to put some money down and get one of the first sets of these to go out the door, PM me.

 

Group buy posted