Norcal Spotted and BS Thread

68"
Thats why i was thinking the stock style would be good for a spare. Able to just carry both parts and use if needed. Not sure. Still trying to figure it out myself

 

My drivelines were $500 each plus shipping. They are 1350 u joints and double Cardons, not that you will have u joints but they are beefy as fuck and backed fully by Jess. He is in Chico, I think it's worth at least a phone call. http://www.highangledriveline.com/

Also I have never met Jeff seems nice and his posts don't annoy me like they seem to annoy everyone else.

Met Jberry once, gave him Pliny and we been best buds ever since.

 

I was thinking of just carrying the prop. shaft. The only spot I saw was between the frame and exhaust pipe. Maybe mount a few short sections of unistrut under there and use the strut- mount pipe clamps. Probably good to wrap the boot with reflective tape, and also learn to say "It's just a driveshaft!" In Spanish for border crossings.

 

This for me also. That said, you guys must have thought/think I was a douchebag too.

 

Douche

 

I have expecting more massengill when we met face to face. Was pleasantly surprised.

 

How would you take apart the half shaft in the field? Hammer method for the u joint?

 

Well, I think it's quite evident that I haven't done my homework... Maybe just a heavy duty driveshaft instead.

 

It's possible on the trail with a hammer and a big as c-clamp. But the driveshafts are balanced as a whole so that would be off.

 

Good to know! At least you wouldn't be stuck between a rock and a hard place, or in @tacomgee 's case, a waterfall and staircase

 

I don't know if it's possible but maybe getting an adapter put in after the carrier bearing, like the one on the ends with the 4 bolts. At the same time get two of the second halves balanced with the the center.

Then swapping is easy and the shafts are balanced.

 

yes

 

Just a little 411 on shafts. A full shaft non sector shaft will drive with more vibes then a factory two piece shaft. Toyota t cases have a factory run out on the rear output. The rear end is also offset rhese two things combined is part of why they use a two piece DS. Going to a one piece shaft isn't always stronger. If you change to a one piece with a cv you will have change the flanges as well for the older style cv's you may also run into pinon angle issues since the angle of the shaft has changed. A one piece is a good choice for dual cases. But it can be argued then as well. I prefer a one piece for simplistic reasons. But that's just my .002 cents. If I were you guys I'd look more into a heavier wall tubing something like .188. In the two piece flavor. It'll balance nice and help with rocks. The factory one is a pop can.

 

Huge shout out to @Drtgrl for driving down to Los Gatos from Martinez to hook me up with some stock wheels and tires. I really appreciate it. Very thankful for the community we have here, that is willing to go the extra mile to help someone out when they need it.

 

It was great meeting you. Glad you and the lady are ok and good luck with insurance

 

To be honest I'm not sure the outcome of Blakes driveshaft would've been any different even with a beefed up shaft. Sure in may not have come apart like it did but it would've dented or bent to the point that the vibes at highway speeds would've been so great he would've had to pull it either way. Just my $.02

 

I need to stay off Amazon for the day, my wallet will thank me later..

 

@JLee I'll buy one if you build these! May have some other customers too.

 

Oh i've been thinking about doing something along those lines for mine for some time now.

 

If you need a 2nd gen to test it on, it's not my DD and I live 3 miles from your shop...