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DIY LCA Bushing Replacement 2005+ Tacoma (4x4)

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by XXXX, Sep 7, 2011.

  1. Mar 11, 2016 at 8:29 AM
    #761
    1rooster

    1rooster TACOMA31750

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    You would think for the price they would come with 1.50$ worth of metal.
     
  2. Mar 11, 2016 at 9:38 AM
    #762
    Sevi88

    Sevi88 Active Member

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    I know right? I just called whiteline. They quoted me around $300. Which is ridiculous. I think i'll have to find a shop to fabricate something to work with my energy bushings.
     
  3. Mar 11, 2016 at 9:45 AM
    #763
    Crom

    Crom Super-Deluxe Member

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    Energy suspension should make a 100% drop in kit. Reusing the metal bits from the factory bushing is such a stupid hassle.
     
  4. Mar 11, 2016 at 9:49 AM
    #764
    PSU Taco85

    PSU Taco85 Señor Member

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    I have an idea, throw them in the trash and buy some TC UCAs
     
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  5. Mar 11, 2016 at 9:52 AM
    #765
    MrShoehorn

    MrShoehorn Well-Known Member

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    Got the last one off last night, took 4 more cuts. 7 total.
     
  6. Mar 11, 2016 at 3:38 PM
    #766
    HomerTaco

    HomerTaco also HomerTaco Vendor

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    For all the effort I've put into messing with LCA's the only real reason I can come up with to justify the time is gusseting them. If I was just in need of new bushings I'd just go buy another new set of complete LCA's. Shit takes too long to fuck with.
     
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  7. Mar 12, 2016 at 7:16 PM
    #767
    Wishbone Runner

    Wishbone Runner Because 4R

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    Agreed, why I trashed mine and went with Dirt Kings.
     
  8. Mar 13, 2016 at 11:57 AM
    #768
    Sevi88

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  9. Mar 13, 2016 at 12:15 PM
    #769
    Crom

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    Last edited: Jul 12, 2016
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  10. Mar 13, 2016 at 12:38 PM
    #770
    Sevi88

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    All I need is the inner sleeves. I asked him for measurements we'll see what he says.
     
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  11. Mar 14, 2016 at 4:57 PM
    #771
    jibski

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    OK, so having no previous experience working with suspensions, I decided to orient/familiarize myself with my LCAs today in preparation for my bushing replacement. I jacked up the truck, removed driver's side wheel, removed the two bolts from the LCA near the lower ball joint, then removed the bolt connecting the front shock to the LCA. Now correct me if I'm wrong, but shouldn't the LCA pivot freely at this point (being only connected to the frame by the cam bolts)? Mine was 'welded' into position, and in fact I had to wedge myself into the wheel well and step on the LCA with considerable pressure to get the bolt holes to line up to reconnect the shock again. I'm assuming this is not ideal and is indicative of complete seizing up of my bushings. Do you think there is any prayer of removing my LCA without having to use the sawzall? And how are my alignment tabs not being folded over yet??
    I'm kind of nervous just buying new bushings and cam bolts for this project, and am wondering if I will need to have new LCAs on hand just in case (this is my only vehicle).
    Thanks!
    Josh
     
  12. Mar 14, 2016 at 5:14 PM
    #772
    PSU Taco85

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    Did you loosen the two bolts that connect the LCA to the subframe? If not I'd do that first. Then if they are still stuck that means there's about a 99% chance your cam bolts are frozen to the bushings and you'll need to cam bolts and hardware as well.
     
  13. Mar 14, 2016 at 6:18 PM
    #773
    Sloth

    Sloth Baby Ruth?

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    Stuff
    This. If you didnt loosen the cam bolts the lcas are clamped to the frame by them and only freely rotate so much.
     
  14. Mar 14, 2016 at 6:31 PM
    #774
    jibski

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    OK my bad, yeah I didn't loosen the cam bolts at all. I guess I thought the whole point of the bushings was to allow rotation even with the cam bolts torqued. I'll give it another go and try loosening those. Thanks.
     
  15. Mar 16, 2016 at 2:35 PM
    #775
    Sevi88

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  16. Mar 16, 2016 at 2:58 PM
    #776
    Crom

    Crom Super-Deluxe Member

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  17. Apr 2, 2016 at 3:06 PM
    #777
    Sevi88

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    So I got the Moog lower bushings and now I am trying to disassemble to put in energy bushings. Has anyone disassembled the Moog bushings? The seem to be assembled differently.
     
  18. Apr 2, 2016 at 9:15 PM
    #778
    Sevi88

    Sevi88 Active Member

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    7ZWVfWOnIl8lfHn2M6ZzcvC1gtL6u4nW8yp0WfxV_62085021cad6a5f9604cc69b980a5bd934dd67de.jpg
    Got them done
     
  19. Jun 3, 2016 at 9:23 AM
    #779
    SethB

    SethB Well-Known Member

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    I just replaced the lowers with the complete Mevotech Supreme LCAs from Rock Auto. They have the Supreme bushings and BJs installed and ready to go. Pulled out my old LCAs and swapped in these. New OEM cam bolts (all greased now) all around and an alignment and so far so good (less than 100 miles so far). All of the popping/clanking is gone from the old bushings/LCA. Also swapped in SPC UCAs at the same time to get more Caster.

    I'll see how these work out. I still have my OEM LCAs in case I ever want/need to rebuild them.
     
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  20. Jul 12, 2016 at 5:51 AM
    #780
    TheGoodLife

    TheGoodLife Active Member

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    Apologies if this question isn't specifically on topic for this thread, however wondering if any TW members have been successful at a warranty claim for the LCA bushing/camber adjuster seizing issues?

    I recently discovered my 2011 to have this issue, which occurred sometime between 40k-60k (period between wheel alignment checks), and the two quotes I have so far range between $1250 and $1450 (Canadian peso), the lower price being the local independent mechanic (trusted) quoting to replace the LCA bushings and adjuster bolts, the higher price being a Toyota Dealer quoting to replace the whole LCA assemblies (somewhat trusted). Seems like a marginal cost difference to get all new LCAs, but leaves me with the question of, why the hell should I pay for this? Our 98 Subaru Outback did 270k before needing the LCAs replaced, because they had quarter sized rust holes through them, so it just seems like a Toyota issue to address or include in their TSB program or even their maintenance schedule? Anyway, preaching to the converted I expect.

    With respect to greasing the new/replacement LCA bushings and adjuster bolts, what is the consensus on the best product and required service interval for re-greasing under colder climates with slush and road salt? I'd be slightly upset to go through this again in another 4-5 years, so just wondering if anyone has longer-term experience with a good product?

    Sorry for the rant, and any advice is appreciated.
     
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