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2nd gen UCA install

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Abecker, Jul 12, 2016.

  1. Jul 12, 2016 at 6:22 AM
    #1
    Abecker

    Abecker [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Aaron
    Rhode Island
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    2015 BRM DCLB 4X4 V6 TRD Sport
    Front Toytec at 1.75, deaver AAL, 255/80r17 BFG KM2s, no diff drop no spacers.
    So, I found 4 hours of free time yesterday and overambitiously planned to install a lift at 1 hour per corner.

    I ran into an issue that I haven't found much search results for so I wanted to post this up for future users and to get an answer on something that has been bothering me. I'm sure its well known I just didn't type the right search words I guess.

    When I replaced the UCAs, the long ass bolt slid out in the front bumper direction and smacked some body piece/rib flange/apron thingy preventing it from coming out. So I beat the shit of that to make room to remove the bolt.

    When reinstalling, i just put it in the other way, from the back sliding towards front.

    Whats bothering me is why didn't toyota install them in that direction at the factory....or were they supposed to be installed in that direction originally?

    Anyway, this slowed me down and took 3 hours to do just the front. Now i'm temporarily bro style with goofy street tires.

    ...to be continued
     
    el_turks likes this.
  2. Jul 12, 2016 at 6:37 AM
    #2
    Arailt

    Arailt Well-Known Member

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  3. Jul 12, 2016 at 6:40 AM
    #3
    Abecker

    Abecker [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Front Toytec at 1.75, deaver AAL, 255/80r17 BFG KM2s, no diff drop no spacers.
  4. Jul 12, 2016 at 6:42 AM
    #4
    tan-ishman

    tan-ishman Well-Known Member

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    a bunch of new/used parts....and some skids.
    ha! sounds like last time i did anything on my truck... ever
     
    BassAckwards likes this.
  5. Jul 12, 2016 at 6:44 AM
    #5
    Abecker

    Abecker [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Front Toytec at 1.75, deaver AAL, 255/80r17 BFG KM2s, no diff drop no spacers.
    Maybe I should have cut it... didn't think of that. substantial bolt, sparks.. painted my apron body work though to try to protect it. :fingerscrossed:

    good to know it was assembled per their plan though. not sure how i would have felt if my truck was assembled incorrectly...
     
  6. Jul 12, 2016 at 6:45 AM
    #6
    O906

    O906 Well-Known Member

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    I'd say the stock UCA's were put on before the body panels. Auto manufactures don't really care about making working on stuff easier for the average guy.

    If I was a betting man I would say that the factory service manual used at the dealership calls for the side front quarter panels to be removed to replace the UCA.

    I just bent the sheet metal and installed backwards like everyone else here.
     
  7. Jul 12, 2016 at 6:50 AM
    #7
    qxrtz4321

    qxrtz4321 Well-Known Member

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    Just said F it and cut the bolt on my 3rd gen... same situation where it hits when trying to pull it out.
     
  8. Jul 12, 2016 at 7:00 AM
    #8
    Abecker

    Abecker [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Front Toytec at 1.75, deaver AAL, 255/80r17 BFG KM2s, no diff drop no spacers.
    Thanks guys, these are good responses.
     
  9. Jul 12, 2016 at 10:16 AM
    #9
    Crom

    Crom Super-Deluxe Member

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    Bend the sheet metal out of the way and install the bolt the right way, same as factory.

    Bending the sheet metal is easy with big 16" channel locks.

    If you install the bolt upside down and nut becomes loose and falls off, it could be a catastrophe if the bolt were to slide out at interstate speeds... as the front end would collapse.

    If you do choose to install the bolt updside down consider double nutting the bolt and lock tight.
     
    CementTRDOffRoad likes this.
  10. Jul 12, 2016 at 10:24 AM
    #10
    Silverspool

    Silverspool Come at me Bro!

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    Anyone seen my wallet?
    I always consider, and prefer, double nutting.
     
  11. Jul 12, 2016 at 10:34 AM
    #11
    DaveInDenver

    DaveInDenver Not Actually in Denver

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    Unexceptional
    Exactly, the body is dropped onto the chassis at some point after the driveline is already in place.
    The FSM doesn't describe how they intended this to happen.
    The steps they list:
    1. Remove front wheel
    2. Inspect UCA for damage or loose ball joint
    3. Separate skid control (ABS) wire
    4. Remove upper arm (support, use ball joint SST)
    5. Remove skid control bracket
    6. Remove bolt, 2 washers, nut
    7. Remove arm
    Badda bing, batta boom, just that easy.

    Thing is Toyota also decided that replacing the upper ball joint means replacing the whole upper control arm, so it's something that had to come up at some point, if not during the design engineering then when they wrote the service instructions or preparing any classes they would do for techs. I could see a detail like this being overlooked on 2005 models but why not add a notch to later sheet metal?
     
  12. Jul 12, 2016 at 12:30 PM
    #12
    Lord Humongous

    Lord Humongous The Ayatolah Of RockNRolla

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    Boonie is correct. With that said I cut mine out reinstalled backwards with locktite and torqued to spec. I'm not stressing about it but I frequently inspect my truck. There is always the risk they fall out.
     
    scottalot likes this.
  13. Jul 12, 2016 at 12:32 PM
    #13
    Boonie Buster

    Boonie Buster Well-Known Member

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    Whoops, I deleted what i said, I noticed it had been repeated above, but you should install it the way it came out, if the nut falls off, the bolt could slide out and you lose your UCA.
     
    Lord Humongous likes this.
  14. Jul 13, 2016 at 6:24 AM
    #14
    Abecker

    Abecker [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Aaron
    Rhode Island
    Vehicle:
    2015 BRM DCLB 4X4 V6 TRD Sport
    Front Toytec at 1.75, deaver AAL, 255/80r17 BFG KM2s, no diff drop no spacers.
    Oh, I'm glad I posted this just for the contacts... I was lurking for a few months on a bunch of you guys' posts. I may have even spent two entire days reading Crom's thread while at work. but you guys are giving me the heebie jeebies now. I already re-installed backwards and repaired my aprons/bodywork. I'll add lock-tite and double nut but no way I'm yanking those things now and reversing them.
     
    Crom likes this.
  15. Jul 19, 2016 at 2:42 PM
    #15
    Abecker

    Abecker [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Aaron
    Rhode Island
    Vehicle:
    2015 BRM DCLB 4X4 V6 TRD Sport
    Front Toytec at 1.75, deaver AAL, 255/80r17 BFG KM2s, no diff drop no spacers.
    know whats cool? guy showing me how to add a leaf without taking leaf pack off.

    know what sucks? adding a leaf and not paying attention to the new shim, and cutting the center pin when done [with original shim].

    know whats really cool? guy in first line having 20 center pins on hand :eek:

    tires and pics thursday am.
     

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