Full Time 12v in kick panel Fuse Block?

hey guys. Ive tried searching but for some reason my search feature keeps giving me errors on my phone for some reason so i couldnt find anything. Is there any taps in the kick panel fuse block that have a full time 12v? As in, with the key out..

 

Doors

 

I was thinking that, but does it matter that my truck is a regular cab with no power doorlocks or no power mirrors or power windows? Hehe

 

Yes it does I am sure somebody else will chime in sorry

 

Thanks for the input (no pun intended lol)

I know alot of times toyota wires our trucks for stuff even if they dont have the options. So i wasnt sure. It would be great if that slot had full time power. Anybody else chime in to back up Mr Unchained? Hehe

 

If you have a volt meter it would be very easy to check. Like $15 at most auto type stores

 

Door Lock fuse, volt meter and a picture of vehicle interior fuses...

 

Seems like that 20a relay is always hot than?^^^ if im reading it correctly

 

I would look at that 20a Door slot, usually door locks are 12v hot because they are sitting there waiting for the fob..
What are you wiring? It might make sense to go directly to the under hood fuse box, or the batt itself.

 

Usually the power windows are sitting there waiting for the up n down button to be pressed. All off after vehicle off. His vehicle is plain Jane.

 

I do not have it installed. But i saw that the fuse is currently intalled from the factory. So I wasnt sure if it came pre powered

 

Should have power. My access cab doesn't have rear power windows but I used that slot to power some added functions. Door locks are always powered. Windows are powered with the key on btw

 

^ thank u for the tip! Im going to try that slot FIRST for my add a circuit. I will report back here with my results guys

 

Thank u for the diagram. Question, how come you leave the one slot open? I added an add a circuit for my ign to my mictuning switch for my light bar, and i had just kept one in and my truck disnt start! Added the second fuse and it worked. So i just assumed that it required both

 

The add-a-circuit was installed upside down. Most just install it how ever it fits' or looks "better" not taking into account which pin is hot and which goes to circuit..

For your install of the mictunning switch both would be required. Since you don't have power windows, you'll be avoiding power going to the rest of the incomplete harness...or if you do have the wire going to the IL2 connector you could have dual circuits...on that particular connector.

 

So im confused then what the other slot is even for than? Lol. As in, should i take my other one out on my led bar switch?

 

No..

 

So than what is the danger (if any) of not putting a fuse in the other slot

Btw, im not trying to be difficult. I just want to understand the theory

 

If your using the add-a-circuit as the first (normal) way, you are adding a circuit to an established circuit. You will need to add the original fuse to maintain the power to the circuit (bottom slot).





In the case of the unused and unknown if the harness (power windows) is complete, then you'll only need the top fuse in the add-a-circuit, paying attention to the power side in the fuse slot in the vehicle fuse box.

 

So update guys. I just inserted the add-a-circuit to the 20a fuse spot for the Power Door Locks (which i dont even have) and voila! 12.5 volts dc all the time!!