Secondary air injection switching valve.......?

update:

My battery was going bad and after I replaced my battery on Sat everything is working as should and fixed the problem. The bypass seems to be working fine Maybe didn't get enough juice on crank or something to kick it on. IDK but not complaining, no codes!

 

That's great News man!!! Glad it worked out. Your back to enjoying the Taco and can focus on the studies and such!

 

Over all how was the kit to install as far as the wiring part. Thanks.

 

its just plug and play, you dont really have to wire anything except for one small wire you just plug into it and run to one of your relays. Took me longer to figure out where the block off plates went haha....I swear I spent hours thinking for some reason they went behind the switching valves and they do not.

 

Very good, thanks!

 

If I knew about this problem BEFORE my switching valves went bad I would have just already bought the bypass and installed it to keep them from going bad in the first place.

 

You Can Count me in on this one I have a 2012 V6 with just crapped out.
what's the latest and easiest fix with the cheapest amount of money because with the problems I've had out of mind I'm not sure I'm going to keep it more than a few months.
there's no way a truck with 60,000 miles on it should be having this amount of problem and need money put into the sum of two or three thousand dollars along with them telling me it'll be a week before they can get to it and maybe take a day or two to work on it.
hate to say it but before I spend much money on it I'm just going to trade it in and get a different brand I bought it because I wanted it to last and something that didn't have to work on putting money in but unfortunately this one cost me more than I want to keep the truck.I have a scan tool so I can reset it as I need but I didn't know if there was a quick fix that will keep the lights off and keep it out of limp mode which is the big problem I see.
I about got hit pulling out into traffic and it went into limp mode I'm just not too much on keeping something that is not safe. would like to get your thoughts on a quick fix with little or no money in order to trade it or if there is a cheap fix that will last and not have to mess with these parts again I may a keep it a little bit longer.

 

Cheapest fix will be for you to obtain parts which are about $500 and repair yourself. I understand where your coming from, if I hadn't just bought a house I would have traded it off quickly as well when it failed. Unacceptable, Toyota just isn't what they used to be.

 

If I remember from reading this snd othe threads the pump was like 750 and 500 to 600 for the valves?
Then people were breaking off bolts getting the valves off.
See top that off when I was talking to the dealer about the bad springs they said they were not sure when or if I could ge that fixed and how much it would cost me for that. Also I would.need to remove my air bags before I carried it in and replace then on my own when I got it back.
They also pointed out they said my brakes need to be replaced before I could have the state inspection done.
Also added to the list they stated the plugs needed change, both diff oils, trans needed flushing and transfer case oil, along with the battery showing it needs to be replaced...
Too stinking hot for me to work on it this time of the year.
The est for the work was in the 2500 to 3000 range for the current problems 1800 to 2000...
They are saying the ticket could hit 5000$ to keep the truck on the road.

I have never spent more that 200 to 400$ in anything not covered under warranty on all the trucks and cars I have had to date up to 100k miles.
All would got almost 100k before needing anything other than add gas and change oil in most cases. Nothing that ever had me stuck in limp mode and risk safety in traffic.
Yep I know I could do some of the work on my own but it us real hot out and even then im putting money in the truck.........

 

This is a bypass kit.

http://hewitt-tech.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=44

 

Does this not still store a code In the system.
If there is a code in the system it will not pass out inspection.

 

That I'm not sure. Maybe someone can chime in.

 

Install the kit and clear the code, it won't come back.

Also, see what took a shit on you first, the valves or the pump? I don't think they would both crap out at the same time. I replaced my valves, after complaining to Toyota for a year almost, for right around $375 and it's running like new again. I guess I'll just have to call it '60k maintenance' and replace the valves every 60k.

 

Also I bought an early Hewitt tech module and got a P011B code, HT said buy a new module and it will fix the P011B code. Well new module was just as much as the valves, and having 2 modules to me is unacceptable.

 

Im getting the code for the valves bank one and two stuck open.

Went to the dealer they need it back monday so they can pull codes after cold start and stated they would do what they could but it would cost.
Said they will want to replace the pump if I want any warranty on the valves....

Went to the Ram dealer up the road, working a offer for them to take the truck on trade and get a New Ram that covers this stuff and motor to 100k....

 

If your in a position to unload your tacoma, I would. Only reason I didn't on mine is my valves went right when I was closing on my house. Very convenient timing for my 53k mile truck to go down. First Toyota truck I have owned and will be my last, like you said it to has cost me more money and problems then any vehicle I have owned just to make it to 60k

 

Ok

Big question for you guys about the valves.

It looks like the part or parts that cause the problem is the valving and the top plunger system.
Many have trued to clean them just undoing the 4 screws that let get to the valve. It is also done to put the block off plates for the work a round....

My thought is buy the valves as cheap as I can and just pull the upper part and valve off the new ones and add them to the old one to get it to work.
It would make it so much faster and easier to do. I could then pull them off and return the olds after I clean them up before I trade it off.... After that I could sell them on here cheap to someone that needs them to help them out.
May be forced to wait on the truck and order it if they can not locate it.

So it would be a 30 min job and 8 screws that are easy to get to and no broken bolts or worry about them being stuck...

Was looking at it and it looks real easy to pull the tops off.
Does not look like anything but ports and connection on the bottom part...main part is the valve and plunger system on the top. The valve is not closing so you replace it.

Thoughts?

 

I would just buy a new valve assembly and be done with it

 

I don't think your going to be able to clean them, you cannot access the area where they go into the solenoid. Plus the rubber that surrounds the plunger on most I have seen, especially the rear valve disintegrates. Your gonna have to swallow the pill that Toyota provided us with an inferior product, know about it and cough up $500 for a new valve set on your low mileage truck.

 

One thing I was looking at was just being to do the job fast..
So getting new valves and just pull the top on the new and place it on my truck to make it work.

If I remember from reading the parts that go bad in then was the top part.
Everything above the 4 screws on the front and back valve?
If thst correct? That way it is faster and easier to get done less work.