Mid Travel BS 2.0

1"-2" of droop?

 

Yup

 

Looks like you're right then, he might want to take off a bit of preload.

 

How much droop is normal ?

 

The thing is I know the CVs aren't maxed out. I know people have cranked their Coilovers for tons of lift, but that's not what Im trying to do. I'll reduce the preload, but there seems to be something different with this setup, or something I'm missing.

 

Preload on the spring sets lift, by trading down travel for up travel. If the coils aren't binding, you should still have the stock travel.

Here's a picture of my LCAs for comparison.

 

Edited my post to make more sense.

I'll measure from the ground to fender this evening.

 

Did you call Fox? Chances are they know the specifics and just how much preload keeps you in the green.

 

Now if only we could stop measuring "preload" by how many inches of threads are showing.. Preload is dependent on spring length. If it was a 10 inch spring the collar could be all the way down and still have zero preload..

 

One thing I've been tossing around is the possibility that the current 600lb spring is too much spring for my truck, with the current weight over the front. I'm waiting to hear back from AllPro and Fox.

 

Well to be fair that is a solid comparison point for same model CO's and there really are only two lengths of springs used for OE replacements 13 & 14". It is also an accurate measurement of preload if you know the point at which the coil is engaged. Most manufacturers will tell you that the zero point is when (at full droop ) the collar hits the coil +2 full turns to secure the coil tightly.

So, if you know for example that on brand A there are 1/2" of threads showing at zero preload then knowing how far past that point you are is an accurate measurement of preload. Then because we know with stock length arms that the ratio is nearly 2:1 (1.9 ish ) you can come up with a very close estimate of actual lift I.E.: in the case of the example above if you had 1 1/2" of thread showing that would be an 1" of preload which would equal 2" of lift.

 

Bro...you are all over the map with this issue. I thought you started with needing more lift to clear your tires and wondering if you needed stiffer springs to gain that height ? Now you think you need lighter springs which will lower the truck ?

Here are the facts - you can only lift a 4x4 front end 2.5-3" max and maintain any proper alignment. Even at 3" any tires 285 or larger are going to rub when you offroad and the only way to cure that is to start chopping metal and plastic to make the clearance.

 

Bro, everything is already chopped, and the coilovers have been adjusted from stock "out-of-the box" settings, by the person who did the chopping.

My first issue being, I have so many threads showing, which I found is due to having a shorter spring. So then I moved on to my next issue, which is the harsh ride. Since I do not have an exessive amount of preload, I'm considering the heavier spring and the preload I currently have (which I was told was just one full turn on each side, equaling 1-3/4" of thread showing. I'm waiting to hear from AllPro and Fox on this) to reach 3" total lift, the root of this issue.

So following that process, if I went with a new spring, it would be a 14" spring, and if I need a lighter spring, I'd go with a 500lb or 550lb spring (I incorrectly thought a heavier spring would help my issue, since I'd need almost no preload on the spring to get the lift I need, but wouldn't help/correct my harsh ride issue.)

 

Hey guys,

I'll be joining the mt club soon. I have ext. travel r.r. king 2.5s w/ comp adjusters coming for all 4 corners as well as some all pro standard duty leaf springs, wheelers superbumps, u bolt flip kit, and limit strap mounting hardware, extended rear brake lines, camburg 1.25 uniball uca's, and spidertrax so I can make use of my stock wheels for the time being. Any tips/advice for the install as far as little things to have on hand that many forget? Also curious as to where all of you are mounting your rear straps, I've got a good idea of how I'm going to mount the front but I only found a couple pictures of rear setups.

Thanks!

 

The only reason I would strap the rear is if your shocks are too short and max out at full droop.

 

That's the issue I'm corned about. From what I've heard, the ap standards have a fair amount of droop and will max out most shocks that can fit in the stock mounting location. Won't know until the parts are here and I cycle the rear suspension though.

 

Cycling is overrated. Just throw it all on there and bomb some whoops.....








I keed

 

For the rears: I can grab a picture tonight, I added a plate to the inside of the frame, and welded the strap mount to that.

Weld the mount to the plate before you weld the plate to the frame.

 

Thanks, I appreciate the tip!

 

Are you jumping it or just flexing the rear? IMO straps are needed when you are airing it out. But if you are just flexing it over rocks then a proper bump stop will keep you from over extending the shock. How long are rear KING's you got?