Crank Pulley Bolt Removal - Easy Way!

I used a proper breaker bar and set it on frame and crank the motor for a millisecond ....wham bam and done the easiest way

 

I never owned and don't know much about automatics, so I can't help you with locking up the drivetrain.

Try putting your truck in park (or start the truck, put it in drive, and shut it off) then put a 22mm socket and breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt. Can you turn the crank? If not, you should be ok to use the method I posted.

 

What about re-installing the pulley on an automatic?

 

I know this is an old post, but I just wanted to say thanks for the tips. It helped a bunch with my pulley swaps! +1

 

How important is it to adhere to the spec vs just using a regular ratchet and play by ear on tightness ?

 

Oil pump on our trucks works as sandwiched between crank and timing gear. There is no key on it. So if you f up torque, your oil pump will not push oil correctly.
Don't Skipp it, do it right..
If you torquing to spec, get new crank bolt. After so many years existing one may explode on you. They supposed to stretch.

 

Bumping the starter method works fine as long as you are sure which way the crank pulley is turning; you anchor the breaker bar accordingly and take measures to prevent an unintentional start while bumping the starter. I haven't had to do a 2nd Gen 4.0 yet, but if I did, I'd first determine crank pulley rotation direction.

As far as disabling the ignition goes - on other vehicles, I've first pulled the fuel pump relay fuse then started the vehicle and run until it dies. Try and start again. Do it repeatedly until it won't start. Doing this relieves fuel pressure - an alternative to disabling the ignition. If you have a method to disable the ignition - then use it instead if you like. To repeat, I would not bump the starter until I was sure the vehicle had no chance of an unintentional start.

Once you've either killed the fuel supply or disabled the ignition, you can bump the starter.

When done with your work, reinstall fuel pump relay fuse and turn ignition switch to first position. Wait a few secs - let fuel pump prime and reestablish pressure.

Start truck.

 

Just hit the starter make sure you have the breaker bar planted against some thing twist the key you'll hear the bar hit the frame some times it takes more than one try turn the engine off. If it runs then the bolt socket and bar will be on the ground it will do no damage to any thing if it starts. All engines I know of all turn the same way clock wise at the pulley end except for a Corvair otherwise this trick would not work.

 

Thread revival!! Use the bump start to remove, but what about re-tightening the crankshaft pulley bolt?

 

You have a manual. Put it in 5th or 6th gear, and torque away.

 

Reference who I quoted.

 

My truck has been sitting in the driveway for 6 months waiting for someone to reply! Haha but seriously, I put it in 5th and tightened. Just seemed like it was so much pressure, didn't know if it could potentially dmg something.

 

I tried to get here as fast as I could.

 

What about an automatic?

 

Engine bump method, or a hammer against a breaker bar.

 

Yea I have no problem doing the engine bump method for taking the bolt off. I'm just trying to figure out a simple way to retorque the bolt without having to pay $60 for a tool that I'll only use once.

 

Might sound like a stupid question but can you also loosen the bolt by putting the manual in 5th gear and using breaker bar?

 

Yes. Much easier than an auto.

 

So just how did you get the bolt to retorque after you had done all your work? So it seems the bump start is the way to go by running the fuel pump out of fuel, take everything out and replace balancer and whatever you want. But how did you manage to torque it down after on the automatic?

 

I ended up buying an air impact gun to loosen it and rented a ft lbs to wrench to tighten it. Had to put a bolt in the pulley and chain it to the frame to keep it from spinning but it worked.