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home made CAI is it possible?

Discussion in 'Performance and Tuning' started by kjf216, Dec 31, 2009.

  1. Jan 1, 2010 at 12:11 PM
    #21
    08pretaco

    08pretaco Well-Known Member

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    http://www.homedepot.com/Building-M...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

    can get something like this a cut some small holes so water would be able to get out. myabe in the tubing itself on the bottom or the backside of that triangle where it meets in the back.

    i know what i posted is expensive but there are cheap things similar to this out there

    http://plumbing.hardwarestore.com/51-600-dryer-vent-hoods.aspx

    iv been looking into doing something similar so i got a few idea as well haha just never got around to doing any of it, hopefully i will soon
     
  2. Jan 1, 2010 at 7:19 PM
    #22
    kjf216

    kjf216 [OP] Fitz

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  3. Jan 4, 2010 at 12:59 PM
    #23
    kjf216

    kjf216 [OP] Fitz

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    so heres a rough sketch of what i was thinking of doing i plan to make a new box where the factory intake pulls air from the wheel well

    [​IMG]

    im going to make a box at the grill to collect the air and route it around the radiator support then back to the box on the wheel well, then to the factory filter box.

    i plan to have the new box on the wheel well take air from the wheel well and grill so does anyone have a pic of this area with the intake unbolted?
    [​IMG]

    i plan to make everything bolt on so that if i need to return the factory set up its easy. also do you guys think that by routing everything to a new wheel well box that this will solve the possibility of sucking water in from the grill? keep in mind i don't offroad and i will be making a cap so i can cap the grill house if i decide to offroad.
     
  4. Jan 4, 2010 at 1:47 PM
    #24
    08pretaco

    08pretaco Well-Known Member

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    I really like your idea man keep us posted on how it progresses!

    are you leaving the front of the box open there by the washer fluid reseviour or is it gonna be a closed box?
     
  5. Jan 5, 2010 at 12:19 PM
    #25
    kjf216

    kjf216 [OP] Fitz

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    since its bitter cold here this week, can someone see what diam the intake hose is at factory filter box and at the passenger wheel well. thanks.

    by the way diam must be from a 2nd gen 4.0 v6.
     
  6. Jan 5, 2010 at 12:21 PM
    #26
    wiscdave

    wiscdave Lets Do It!

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    I might play with an idea to run a tube to grab air from around the exhaust manifold for warm air. I'm trying to warm my air up to get better MPG in the winter here...seen the idea over on some Hypermilers, my truck shits the bed on gas in the winter.

    I ran a AFE CAI, lost low end torque and 2 mpg, but gained some HP in the passing rpm...other than that mpg might have stayed flat while towing.
     
  7. Jan 6, 2010 at 12:12 PM
    #27
    kjf216

    kjf216 [OP] Fitz

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    sry over looked u post i plan to have a closed box, air will go in from tube to the front and from the wheel well
     
  8. Jan 19, 2010 at 4:27 PM
    #28
    bmgreene

    bmgreene Well-Known Member

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    I wouldn't burn too many calories trying to get "ram air" effects. The whole concept is a lot more marketing BS than it is measurable performance.

    My fluid dynamics is a little rusty, but ram compression comes from stagnatig moving air (relative to some solid object such as a truck), thus converting dynamic pressure into static pressure. Dynamic pressure is 1/2*air density*airspeed^2, and at 70 degrees at sea level, this comes out to 0.18 psi at 100 mph, maning you'll see less than a quarter pound of "boost" at 100 mph and that'll drop off parabolically rather than linearly (down to 0.05 psi at 55 and 0.01 psi at 25). If you know any mechanical or aerospace engineering majors, they can check my numbers on this.
     
  9. Jan 21, 2010 at 5:13 PM
    #29
    SkyHighTacoma

    SkyHighTacoma Josh

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    Im thinking of doing something like this also and since I got a scangauge now I can keep track of intake temp's.
     
  10. Jan 21, 2010 at 8:16 PM
    #30
    PreRunnerSeth

    PreRunnerSeth Well-Known Member

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    MAF location is very important. if you get too much air turbulence from an incorrectly placed MAF sensor you can cause the engine to run wrong and even throw codes.
     
  11. Jun 7, 2010 at 5:25 PM
    #31
    jonml

    jonml Well-Known Member

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    debadged ,grillcraft grill,blacked out headlights secondary filter removed,k&n filter,made a ram air tube to the airbox using 3 inch diameter flexible tubing ,sony reciever added ,rockford frosgate shallow mount sub added ,infinity component speakers added and powered by external amp,added cheap exhaust tip,added oem foglights,added helwig swaybar,shortened my antenna,dumped exhaust behind rear axel.
    ive done something very similar to that on my truck the difference with mine is i didn't cut any metal so its prob less direct i just routed mine from the airbox down by the radiator hose and bent it to up inside the bumper and made a scoop to catch the air
     
  12. Jul 11, 2013 at 12:59 PM
    #32
    Wolfman87

    Wolfman87 Member

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    I've been looking at doing this same thing. The wheel well is already a high pressure zone (the reason they put it there) the easyiest way to boost performance is use a larger hose coming out of the back of the box to the motor. The only thing you have to make sure of is the MAF sensor must be placed on a hose the same diameter as the stock.

    and yes I know this is a dead thread but oh well
     
  13. Jul 11, 2013 at 5:53 PM
    #33
    tooter

    tooter play every day

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    Built for maximum low end torque, tooter II.VII intake manifold spacer, LCE long tube header, Injen long tube intake, 2,900 rpm torque peak.
    Dead thread or not... the idea is still valid. :thumbsup:

    I've also been thinking of making my own home made box to enclose the filter on my aftermarket intake. ;)
     

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