Closed (for now): Group Buy: IEDLS Polyurethane Carrier Bearing

Haven't done mine yet but I believe the 3 jaw puller works best for pulling it off and to press the new one on is just using the nut on the end of the shaft to press on by tightening to torque specks.

 

Yeah be careful to mark everything wth paint. The front and rear flanges that connect to transmission and rear differential and also the middle parts by the carrier bearing.

When removing the carrier, use a 3 jaw puller. It'll pull the rubber off first then reset aND pull the metal bearing.

Putting the new one on, clean all surfaces and lightly grease/lube then slide it on, then slide the yoke thing on. You could tap with hammer very carefully, then put the washer and nut on. Torque to a certain higher foot pounds, loosen nut then torque to the actual torque amount

 

sweet! i didnt want to have to pay 40+ bucks for napa auto parts to eff up my new CB when putting it on.

 

When putting back together make sure your zerks are all on the same side also! I accidentally put one zerk on the opposite side of the others...oops

 

I did the same thing

 

Should be alright for now. Need to get rid of my vibes first by adjusting the rear pinion anyway.

 

Alright, I'm giving up on the two peice drive shaft... Getting vibes now, don't want to deal with it. I stopped at the local shop today to see about having a one peice drive shaft made.

I was thinking of going one peice anyway though. Worried about catching that big flat bar sticking down on The trail.

 

Get an aluminum one if possible. Steel is a bit too heavy for how long it will end up being. The Tom woods one piece steel shaft has been used by many as a replacement, but many still got vibes as it was too heavy.

Then maybe get some sort of trac bar/skid plate thing for the rear driveshaft

 

EDITED WITH CORRECT INFO...

Yeah, aluminum is an option but it's soft. I'm planning to wheel this thing, so I'm going steel. I'm getting the slip joint splined the entire length instead of the couple of inches from the factory. That should help quite a bit with vibes.

They said they've done a couple this way for other Tacos and they've been good. We'll see I guess...

$475 if they use my flanges
$525 all new

 

Ohh alright, nice.

 

That price doesn't seem too bad, for some reason I thought a single piece was more in the $700-$800 range.

 

Yeah, I'd seen that same price range in other threads. I was pleasantly surprised though.

 

Edited prior post with correct info. I'm no longer confused...

 

I'm getting 1 13/16 here



And 2 5/8 on all the flange measurements. Although the holes are slightly beveled so it might be a 32nd smaller. I can't tell for sure...

 

Well I was hoping to get to do my CB replacement this holiday weekend but went to the dealership today to see if I qualify for the leaf spring recall. Turns out I need new leaf springs so now I have to wait until they get replaced before proceeding. No reason to fix everything and then once the new leaf springs get installed have the angles out of wack again. Eventually I'll get around to this fix.

 

I FINALLY got around to doing this.

It went pretty easy, i just dedicated the afternoon to it and just plotted through it. I replaced my center U joint as, well for 22 bucks why not put a new spicer 5-1330-1x joint in and keep the other as a spare.

I still have to play with vertical alignment but for the time being i put it in pretty much the same spot vertically as my original CB with ~ a half inch of spacers. I still have a little bit o take off vibe under hard acceleration but its a SHIT TON better than before, and i feel as though i could get rid of most of it playing with spacing it up or down.


Things of note:

• I used my truck to hold the front part of the shaft during loosening and tightening of the center nut that holds the center yoke on. Made life easy, didnt need to clamp the driveshaft in a vice (didnt like the sound of that)
• Obviously mark EVERYTHING so orientation can be kept when re-assembling, this made life easy
• Replace the center U joint, your there, you have to take it half apart when doing this, like stated for 22ish bucks you can get a brand new one
• But probably the biggest thing i did this time around to make it easy.... GET A U JOINT PRESS. O M F G, why in my past did i never think of hitting up oriley auto parts / autozone and grabbing their "ball joint press" and using it to press out u joints. I grabbed one from oriley today their "Ball joint / U joint press" and this made this project SO MUCH easier than having to bang a u joint out of a yoke like some savage http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/RentalTools.oap And best of all.... they rent it FOR FREE.
• A little 2 jaw puller helped pull the yoke and original CB off of the shaft, they arent "pressed on" but they are a damn tight fit, and the puller makes life so much easier compared to a hammer
• During re-assembly, i put the CB on like pictured (with the yellow circle flange part facing forward) to cover more of the shaft. I left the stock slingers on, also like the OP.
• When i got the new CB and yoke back on, i put a piece of wood on the ground and one decent hammering got it all pushed on, then like stated used the truck to do the two step nut tightening process
  • The two step process is, tighten to 134ftlbs, loosen, then tighten to 51ftlbs. First one is to press everything together, second is to hold it. I used blue loctite on the nut

Either way, definitely happy with the outcome.

 

Should add this to the OP or similar

 

Well, after taking the center support bearing flange apart 5 times and adjusting driveline angles and correcting a misplaced spline, I decided to replace the u-joint between rear driveshaft and rear diff:

Opps, dropped something



Somethings not round anymore?!?!



Awesomeness on left, not so awesome on right




After replacing -> vibrations gone, but driveline lash still exists...

 

Jeezuz man, grease your ujoints please, at least once a month to be safe or more. Also, what brand ujoints are those? They look odd, not oem

EDIT: oops saw your 1st gen