2TR rebuild

Fixed the coolant temp sensor. Got it to stay around 195-200 pretty solid. Now the problem is it fells like it's making about 50hp. 4th gear WOT and it struggled to do 60.

 

And it's not just on the top end. Weak on the bottom end tok

 

Is the timing still off?

Do you have a scangauge or Ultragauge? If so, look at your timing advance. You'll be able to tell if it is pulling timing because of some issue, which will make you have very little power.

Check you throttle body. Make sure that when you give it full throttle, the valve is all of the way open.

Make sure that you have no vacuum leaks.

 

What was wrong with the thermostat sensor?

 

It was ranging from 2-25 degrees from what I'm hearing. I had my dad monitor while I drove. Throttle body opens just fine. Doesn't sound like any vacuums leaks and I can't feel it sucking air around the intake/vacuum lines. Temp sensor just had a dammaged plug that I guess was missed when unplugging everything to remove the engine. Put a new wire in it and it works fine now.

 

One idea some I talked to had was clogged catalytic converters. Going to look into that

 

Cat is not the issue. Unbolted the exhaust and went for a test drive. Still just as weak but super loud.

 

No codes?
Are you able to check fuel pressure?
Are all your spark plug connections good?
Any restrictions in the intake?

 

Only codes are knock sensor and secondary air injection. I don't know how to check fuel pressure.

 

The knock sensor and air injection codes can cause the lack of power

 

Yea so I thought the knock sensor code was from initial startup but after clearing the codes and reading them again it's still there. So that has to be it. Secondary air injection code was throwing before the bent rod.

 

That knock sensor is retarding timing. Can you easily reach the knock sensor? If so, It is either not plugged in properly, or is damaged itself.

 

From what I can tell it is behind the intake so it's no big deal to pull the intake off and check it. The reason I didn't consider it being the issue was I figured it threw that code on initial start up when it was fighting to start. Once it popped again I realized that's what the issue is. I believe a bad reading from the knock sensor sends the ECU into "safe mode"

 

It most definitely does.

 

Found this gem

 

Man. You have a lot of gremlins. Were you guys rushing during the engine pull?

Are those wires for the knock sensor, or something else? Either way, that is definitely a gem. Lol.

 

They are for the knock sensor. Crazy thing is I looked at the sensor and the wires looked secure. And in fact I know the plug was unplugged. However when I pulled on the wire I can with no resistance. No clue how that happened but I'm just glad to find it.

 

Looks like they pulled out of the plug. Shouldn't be too difficult a fix. I bet it will be running like new once you have that fixed.

When my knock sensor went bad on my Subi, it had no balls.

 

Don't the 4cylinder engines derate into limp more with secondary air injection codes like the V6's do, and the tundra V8s for that matter? You might have to cure both issues to make it happy.

 

You are exactly right. Fixed the knock sensor and it was ok for a while then threw the p2445 code and went into limp mode again. Do I have to fix that also. But at least with the code cleared it will run fine