Do I have a 3" lift?

I was told this is a 3" lift from the previous owner but he wasn't the one that lifted it. The block on the rear DS measures about 2 1/8 while the block on the PS measures just shy of 2", say 1 7/8". The front has spacers



Measuring from the ground, center of wheel, to the bottom of fender is 36.5" front PS and 38.25" rear PS. The DS is about a 1/4" higher than the PS measurements. This doesn't appear to be a 3" lift, which from what I've read here, I hope it is just shy to eliminate any issues of lifting over 2 1/2". What say you, 3" or less?

 

Its hard to say.... Most of the "issues" you referred to could be negated by installing new set of UCAs, but at that point, I would just replace the spacer lift with something a little more versatile.

 

It doesn't look like a full 3". Maybe 2-2.5? Hard to say for sure. Does your truck drive straight? Do you have even wear on your tires?

The reason being, the problems that come with a full 3" are alignment issues. The stock UCAs can't generally handle it, and alignment is out of spec causing the truck to track all over the road.

 

Just curious, do you have any interested in off roading? Whether it be for recreation or general out door use? I ask because if so, you should replace the lift anyway, pucks like that are junk.

Measuring exactly the height of a lift is tricky. It looks to be about that. Typically a 3" lift without rake includes 3" of taller something in/replacing your front strut and a 1" something (AAL, block" in the rear. It looks to be about that, maybe a little less (2" or so) in the front from the picture of the puck.

 

Drives straight and wear on tires is even.

 

If you like it and it doesn't leave pavement I'd say you're fine as is

 

No, not planning on doing any off road stuff. After reading on here I may end up changing the lift to 5100's and AAL or a leaf pack.

 

I got almost twice the distance of the spacer thickness- so 2.5" lift from a 1 3/8 spacer , so best guess is that would be 3" lift trying to allow from more spring compression with a thicker spacer. See my lift link below on how that looks on mine and what to look for.

 

If you are going to upgrade, you can do it right for around $650. That's 5100s all around, coils up front and an AAL in the rear. It'll ride MUCH smoother. Talk to Marie from @HeadStrong Off-Road and she'll help you out.

 

Seconded, depending on what your looking for but I would replace those pucks ASAP. It's gonna do nothing but cause issues to your driveline and front end parts in the future. I love my 5100s and I would suggest getting the oem 885 coilover with which ever AAL option suits you. (I just did the single Deaver and I love it.) I would have @HeadStrong Off-Road preassemble the shock assembly (only an extra $90). Which would save you quite a bit of time and hassle either taking the parts to a shop and having somone doing it for you or having to rent a spring compressor. Marie is the best and can answer any questions you have about parts. You will not be disappointed.

 

There's another way to install it too if OP plans on doing it himself. It involves loosening the LCA and using the trucks weight as a spring compressor. There's a couple YouTube videos on it. I did it this way and it was SO easy.

 

The way these trucks are built, your lift will be double the height of the front spacers. There are many reasons not to run such tall spacers. None of those will be an issue once you install a suspension lift. Sounds like you're on the right track!

 

Yea I watched all the videos, and it seems easy enough. Nice thing about them assembling it is they replace all the rubber spacers which are generally dry cracked, and everything is torqued to specks. Not to mention it saves probably an hour over the whole process and is much safer considering how much pressure the spring are compressed to. It's ultimately up to OP but I think this is one step that should be done for ease of mind knowing that your old rubber bushing don't just denigrate when you go to swap them out.

 

All depends on the truck. For example, mine is a '15 so nothing was cracked. You're incorrect about it taking an extra hour though. That method was actually easier than the fully assembled coils we put in my buddy's Tacoma. Regardless, we're getting a bit off track.

 

Very valid point, depends on how many miles are on the original equipment you may not need to worry about anything being worn. Which ever method is used just make sure you know all the steps in order and have all the correct tools to do the job. Your way was the original way I was going to do it, but my good friend was a CH-53 helicopter mechanic and car mechanic for years suggested we disconnect the upper ball joint and sway bar on both side to minimize drive line issues. Which ever way you do it your probably going to need an alignment but what matters is the finished product.
Either way lets....!

5100's are a great choice

Goose out